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steele

Member Since 12 Apr 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 03:35 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Dave's perfect sailboat

Yesterday, 07:56 PM

On my old boat the original bilge blower was left in after it was converted from the gas A4 to diesel.  On longer runs we would run it 5-10 min before and after shut down which made a noticable difference in both heat and that hot smell even a well maintained motor has.  The motor sat under an unsealed cover in the center of the salon so not the same situation as Dave's, but it still might be a consideration if any smell is noticeable in the interior.

 

How much exhaust reaches the cockpit must depend on a lot of variables.  The first boat is as Olaf reports, the current one has the outlet low on the stern.  Exhaust smell is rare on both, and often reduced with a few degrees change in course.


In Topic: Sail Seattle Via Google Maps

Yesterday, 05:56 PM

It is fun to click through the images especially since I live and sail in Seattle.  As it stands there seems to be very little practical use while on the water or while trip planning.  If it could be integrated into standard digital cartography then it might be more helpful, real images of harbour entrances and marinas combined with marina maps, depth and related data could be nice to have in unfamiliar areas.  I think active captain would be a good partner as well since they do a pretty good job of combining info on navigation with on shore facilities.


In Topic: Dealing with Damp

23 August 2016 - 03:09 PM

If you do plan to spend that much time up there the investment in a forced air diesel is probably worth it.  As outlined above I have used small non vented heaters, bulkhead heater and now a webasto forced air unit and it is so much better there is no comparison.  I have never seen a Centaur, but online photos show a pretty big interior for a 26 footer so you might consider a single duct run with one vent in the main cabin and one in the V berth.  Some will also install a vent low in the cockpit to keep your feet warm.  I added a small vent in the run through the main locker on my boat to dry out wet gear.

 

The newest versions have better controls to reduce electrical power use, but you still need to do the calculations if you plan to use it much at anchor with the motor off.  Fuel use is non issue compared to the motor, but there is probably a good reason all of the manufactures do not want you to tap into the fuel line and instead have a dedicated pick up in the tank.  A small leak with the motor running might suck air back to the motor, bad for diesels.  One option is a small day tank just for the heater if access to the main tank is difficult.


In Topic: Dealing with Damp

20 August 2016 - 05:14 PM

Read the details on the wood fired heater, 3 inch stack diameter, 4-6 feet run.  

 

Keep in mind combustion of any fuel in an unvented heater will add moisture to the boat.  I used to use this one, http://www.mrheater....ddy-heater.html.  It was fine to take the chill off in the morning but even after 20 min the windows would start to fog over.  You are very unlikely to dry out a boat with an unvented heater, there is not enough heat produced to offset the added moisture.

 

Can you tell I live in NW corner of the US? I suspect our heat and moisture issues are similar to yours.  


In Topic: Dealing with Damp

20 August 2016 - 04:33 PM

When plugged in a small electric dehumidifier works great, I have one of these https://www.eva-dry....e-dehumidifier/.  Away from the dock good ventilation and dry heat are the way to go.  I just put a forced air diesel heater in my boat.  It was a big splurge cost wise and a very complex instal.  My last boat had a cozy cabin heater (the first photo in Jim's post above).  It is a simple instal as long as you have some bulkhead space to mount it.  It has no fan, an open flame, and on full gets scary hot.  It uses the air you need to breath for combustion so never run it in an unventalated space.  I ran it off 1 lb propane bottles. On the plus side it does vent to the outside and did dry out the boat a bit, and the one inch stack is made from stantion stock. The dickinson ones are better, but need a lot of stack height and the diameter is big too.  On a small boat they almost need to be mounted on the floor.

 

If you go with the Sig cozy cabin heater the best deal is to find an old force 10 kero heater, it is the same thing and should be almost free.  You then buy a propane conversion kit for about 1/2th cost of a new complete heater.  A small 12v fan mounted near the heater helps a lot to distribute the heat.