Jump to content


jc172528

Member Since 19 Mar 2009
Offline Last Active Apr 05 2016 07:11 AM
*----

Posts I've Made

In Topic: SS wire vs Synthetic

05 April 2016 - 07:12 AM

Stick with Dyform until you can afford the "real" synthetic.

 

+1 we have mix of dyform (aka hammerpro) and dynex.


In Topic: run flat tires - how terrible are they?

21 March 2016 - 10:45 PM

thinking of buying a car that comes with run flat tires

 

mostly what i have read online is in car forums and is written by car enthusiasts - i am not one.., i am buying an SUV so i'm not buying it for the handling anyway...

 

i am mostly worried about the hassle i hear can happen if you need a new one when you are traveling somewhere where they are not common, as well as any other possible inconveniences

 

i understand they are expensive to replace - i can live with that

 

any horror stories here?

 

also - are run flats different than extended operation?

 

Hard ride. If it's performance type car and you're on good roads they're fine.


In Topic: Propeller coatings?

18 March 2016 - 12:01 AM

 

 

 

Guys I have a seperate thread on the corrosion issue. Imo it is a dis similar metal issue in the design of the bronze prop with aluminium splined hub insert.
Anyway, this time I will take extra care in assembly and coat the prop surfaces to see how that goes. I was unable to find a supplier of 17 spline inserts out of another material so I have aluminium again.
I have perfect tide conditions to swap the props this weekend. I was leaning to 3 coats of laminating epoxy plus hard antifoul suitable for sail drives. I dive the boat regularly so a bit of fouling can be cleaned no probs..
Otherwise where do I get prop speed? I have to say I would like to avoid it as it may not hold anyway and the system is a pita and expensive.
The speed and power of my setup would not cause cavitation. 27hp and slow spinning 16 inch props.
Carbonator, would regular laminating epoxy not be fine over a grit blasted finish? If not, what else that is easily available in Australia?

The best system is to...
Abrade or profile SURFACE with 120 grit (either with grit blast or "cross hatch" sanding.
Degrease ( either epoxy thinners or auto oil and wax remover)
Heat substrate to 80-100 degrees for 4-5 minutes
Degrease ( either epoxy thinners or auto oil and wax remover)
Etch with 2 pack chromate etch primer DO NOT EXCEED MAXIMUM FILM BUILD.
APPLY 1-2 light coats of hi quality ( for lead steel bronze etc...) epoxy primer like international VC Tar2 wet on print free.
The best product I have used is A product from N Z called Altex No 1 primer. The key is to get a primer with great " wet out" properties. These stick best. Note - keep primer to minimum film build!.. To thick and it could chip off easily if prep is not done 100%
As soon as second coat of VC Tar2 is print free apply 4-5 coats of hard " hi speed" Antifouling such as international ultra or ultra 2 or silicone elastomer....
Laminating resin would stick OK but it would chip easily... Unless you can flexibilize it.
 
Not for alloy.

For Alloy do not use copper antifouling other wise it's the same system

 

 

I guess the Product Sheet for Ultra is wrong then???

 

Compatibility/Substrates GRP, Wood, Steel/Iron, Lead. Not suitable for use over Aluminium/Alloy substrates or zinc sprayed surfaces. Can be applied direct over most types of antifoulings, provided they are in sound condition


In Topic: Rolex Wild Oats XI

16 March 2016 - 01:38 AM

 

haven't been following this thread too closely, were the recent mods considered a success? are they getting the performance numbers they hoped to get?


According to Stephen Quigley - WOXI numbers guy - Yes. From the interview I watched - he was very confident & didn't dodge the question or try to dilute his answer. I could be wrong of course - but that doesn't happen often - my BS meter is finely tuned.

 

 

BS, anyone seen those 'numbers', in any case I seriously doubt whether they did that much testing pre S2H that could really answer the question. 


In Topic: Propeller coatings?

16 March 2016 - 01:33 AM

 

Guys I have a seperate thread on the corrosion issue. Imo it is a dis similar metal issue in the design of the bronze prop with aluminium splined hub insert.
Anyway, this time I will take extra care in assembly and coat the prop surfaces to see how that goes. I was unable to find a supplier of 17 spline inserts out of another material so I have aluminium again.
I have perfect tide conditions to swap the props this weekend. I was leaning to 3 coats of laminating epoxy plus hard antifoul suitable for sail drives. I dive the boat regularly so a bit of fouling can be cleaned no probs..
Otherwise where do I get prop speed? I have to say I would like to avoid it as it may not hold anyway and the system is a pita and expensive.
The speed and power of my setup would not cause cavitation. 27hp and slow spinning 16 inch props.
Carbonator, would regular laminating epoxy not be fine over a grit blasted finish? If not, what else that is easily available in Australia?

The best system is to...

Abrade or profile SURFACE with 120 grit (either with grit blast or "cross hatch" sanding.

Degrease ( either epoxy thinners or auto oil and wax remover)

Heat substrate to 80-100 degrees for 4-5 minutes

Degrease ( either epoxy thinners or auto oil and wax remover)

Etch with 2 pack chromate etch primer DO NOT EXCEED MAXIMUM FILM BUILD.

APPLY 1-2 light coats of hi quality ( for lead steel bronze etc...) epoxy primer like international VC Tar2 wet on print free.
The best product I have used is A product from N Z called Altex No 1 primer. The key is to get a primer with great " wet out" properties. These stick best. Note - keep primer to minimum film build!.. To thick and it could chip off easily if prep is not done 100%

As soon as second coat of VC Tar2 is print free apply 4-5 coats of hard " hi speed" Antifouling such as international ultra or ultra 2 or silicone elastomer....

Laminating resin would stick OK but it would chip easily... Unless you can flexibilize it.

 

 

Not for alloy.