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Lex Teredo

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About Lex Teredo

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    Super Anarchist

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  • Location
    Greater Naptown Suburban Regional Metroplex Area
  • Interests
    Beer, bikes, beer, J/35's, and beer.

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  1. Yeah, IMHO too. Haven't had any significant failures of either the ancient B&G that was on the boat, or the Airmar DST 810 that came with my Triton 2 displays. Sure it has to be pulled every day to fight growth. But that's just the cost of having accurate boatspeed. Ask me about keeping the bottom clean in the Chesapeake too. It's not just the transducer that has that problem. The alternative of course is sailing all the time, or sailing in rough weather. The thing has done great when it's kept in motion constantly, and for that matter, we've cleaned the bottom pretty well by sailin
  2. Huh. JL92S seems to have a bunch of ways to do it. 99 problems but a ditch ain't one.
  3. Them what know you aren't convinced you ever left Childhood, Bump. And I say that with all respect and admiration for your approach.
  4. I can't believe nobody has suggested a Rootes blower, or a modest turbo kit. This forum doesn't have as many gearheads as I had hoped.
  5. Yeah, I think I said that above. West 207. Special slow hardener with UV protectant. Worth noting it also has only 50% of the strength that 206 or 205 have... wouldn't use the leftovers of that hardner for any structural purposes.
  6. Epoxy is more or less permanent. You can wear through it eventually, and you can sand it off if you're willing to sand off enough wood. And MEK works great for that too, it's an epoxy solvent after all, if you don't mind the fire and lung damage risks. It's also highly exothermic if you put a big puddle of it on wood... But the epoxy is durable and relatively cheap, a little covers a lot of wood. I only had epoxy + one or two coats of spar varnish on my last boat's exterior teak for about 3.5 years, then I sold it. It worked fine, no flaws, no fade in that time period, didn't seem to
  7. I've been holding off but I can't stop myself here. West System epoxy with the special UV resistant slow hardener (207) may do it for you. Clean the teak, tape off the area, apply. Sand any runs off, touch up with a second very thin coat. Laugh at your neighbor applying his seventh coat of varnish to 1500 square feat of teak trim on his Swan 40. It's the Aging Stripper Finish, or the 1020 finish. It looks like a 10 from 20 feet. Up very close you can tell it's not spar varnish, you'll spot a few flaws and you probably can't see your reflection. But what are you tryng to go for h
  8. LOL. Thanks Evans, greatly appreciate the advice.
  9. Eric, do you have a preferred method for loading soft shackles to firm up the knots? I usually tie the eyelet to some halyard line, run it through the center eyelet of a cleat, and then put it on a halyard winch and crank until the knot is rock hard; then trim and whip the short tails. It's been effective so far but I wonder if this Kentucky windage method is sub-optimal. I use the diamond knot, which seems to tighten up pretty well this way. Can't untie with a fid and 15 minutes of trying, anyhow. Thoughts?
  10. Sailed once with one of dad's friends when I was about 15... dad pointed out the sailing books in the cabin of the 27 footer, said, "you gotta know your stuff to sail." His friend was a very accomplished engineer, always assumed it was past my abilities. Did a lot of fishing, waterskiing; cousin owned a big ass marina and restored vintage boats in the Thousand Islands, a family of power boaters. Then a friend's dad took us out on his Catalina 30 when we were at Cuttyhunk for a week. When the motor stopped, the sails went up, we were moving powerfully but it was silent except for the wind an
  11. You mean Phil Wood's grease? Those guys know a little bit about making low RPM hubs filled with pawls work correctly. (Aside: I've built a couple bike wheels with Phil hubs. They are extremely high quality and smooth, and work better the longer they are used. Quality product.) I use a very light coat of Lewmar or Harken winch grease (a tube lasts for two winches, somebody says above... holy God, are they trying to help some Saudi prince buy a new Lambo?) My two tubes of grease are about 6 years old. They last. I typically use 3-in-1 oil on the pawls and the tiny springs. It do
  12. Sure, but they smell Downy Fresh. And the way everybody and everything on a boat reeks, isn't that worth something?
  13. Good techniques. The only thing I'd add is it sometimes makes sense to add fabric softener when rinsing the lines, for those lines that are handled regularly. Those who sit forward of the tiller appreciate soft jib and spin sheets. The main traveler is another candidate for this treatment.
  14. Top one looks like a turd cutter for the days that the patrons of the head have not ingested sufficient fiber. AKA a Hand Masticator, for those who don't have electric masticating heads.
  15. We've had stanchions bent 60" by unfortunate incidents involving late night docking, bad combinations of tide, wind and dock piling; but have never had one fail at the base. The glass underneath and nearby core gets squishy and delaminated before they break, in our experience. I am worried about flexing the deck and damaging the glass, and am installing G-10 backing plates bedded in thickened epoxy with high strength filler. Maybe we'll break a stanchion at the base now. I doubt it. Your mileage may vary.
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