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Dogfish4255

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About Dogfish4255

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  • Birthday 01/22/1981

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    rkinsm03
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  • Location
    Newport, RI
  • Interests
    Mostly sailboat racing, but woodworking, drinking, and sailboat racing are all up there.

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  1. Large skulls; the Smith XL options really offer the most variety of shapes and lens colors out of the brands I've considered without going the expense or weight of Costa's.
  2. You can run a good program without "winning" provided you can identify your own personal big miss as an owner/sailor, and establishing goals, budget, and crew bench that are aligned with your resources and sailing style. Reasonable balance can be pretty fun, if not competitive. Typically the disconnect I've seen between owner/programs and their teams are major misalignments of one or more of the following; skills, budget, expectations, or sailing style/ego. I've been on both sides of this equation, sometimes as part of the problem. Oh, and if your shit breaks down constantly, ignor
  3. If the OP's issue is a pattern, it's a cockpit problem, not a bow problem. If the sail is flying correctly and is rotated correctly through the gybe, as others have pointed out, the sheets are loaded, and will remain higher than the guy until the pole is brought back on the new guy. Double tapping is great for first set. I have yet to see or care when sheet/guy are rigged separately or in tandem, but tandem is always sheet clipped to guy, and separate only seems advantageous to teams who have their shit together in relatively light conditions when you'd want the option to drop the typically
  4. I bet sailing that is like roulette; everyone on the rail gets a turn down below tacking Satan's finger. You can't afford this boat unless you can also afford the permanent professional escort vessel necessary to pluck all of the survivors from the water.
  5. You ought not ease the sheet that way . . . Mmmm. I don't reckon the mast got no reason to stay pointed upright, once the spinnaker gone that way . . . Mmmm. Tough to know if this was precipitated by the trimmer or the driver, but the trimmer DEFINITELY made it way worse.
  6. As most have pointed out there's a couple effective ways to skin the PHRF game; - an iron-clad rating "commoner" like the J30, fully prepped and sprinkled with the best sails and crew one can afford, and competently delivered to start on time and hitting the appropriate shifts. The J29 that won everything at the club all the time where I grew up wasn't a wizard, but he did have nice sails, and he showed up on the starting line on time and made very few mistakes. - an obscure and potentially difficult to sail design that likely was never rated to deal with a better than average level
  7. Nah, let the haters hate . . . time on the water and specific efforts will make it worth your time. Things like knowing when to run sheets and guys or just sheets on the kites, minimum competencies for your foredeck, trimmer(s), and pit, and what money to spend are going to make all the difference in your enjoyment of the boat. If you don't already have one, add a carbon spinnaker pole. Or two. And enjoy, congrats on the boat!
  8. Depends on your friends and what you expect of racing. The J33 is more versatile as a true handicap race boat in most typical weeknight racing conditions, where in mixed fleet sailing a well trimmed symmetrical boat can outdo the relatively underpowered J105 (class configuration). Undoubtedly the J105 is going to be easier to sail shorthanded, or with kids, and definitely a broader availability of used class sails if that's your budget mode. Have capable race-y friends who are willing to put in the time to race hard? J33 Family fun without all the "that's hard" stuff? J105
  9. There could be at least a book, maybe two, written on the topic. What sort of specifics are you looking for? Are your interests racing, cruising, or just collecting a choice example at the bargain price in the current economic climate? There are differences both minor, and some that could be considered by some to be major, but as any major championship results list can attest to, the 4-6 teammates aboard seem to be just as or more important than finding some supposed unicorn J24.
  10. If your typical fail on the race course is straight line moding and identifying key shifts, I'd recommend magnetic. As pointed, it's more accurate (refresh rate), especially in down-speed boats. If the only thing that's missing from your game is key positioning and leverage off the starting line, and you don't rely on compass heading feedback to keep the boat in the correct mode or speed, then COG GPS might be sufficient. At the level the Star guys are sailing at, a boat length at the line might be the difference of 1st or 20th at the weather mark. As most have eluded to, "both" is
  11. ROI accounting doesn't reconcile well to fringe "if" scenarios, long term "when" situations, and doom drum players touting worst case scenarios. Accountants, Administration, and other players in big healthcare/medicine, and even small hospitals, play the same games other institutions play in the last couple of decades; balance the need to pay the top talent and "officers" as much as possible or necessary to maintain the attractiveness/performance of an institution, while trimming cost where perceived "need" is low. Is anyone else surprised they do this with a short term out look, or with
  12. I'm all for the upstarts, but I agree with the others; NMEA 0183 for a new product is just preying on sketchy old mismatch systems. In a moment of weakness, I installed a fresh N2k backbone with an autopilot upgrade, and at the same time added the Airmar 220Wx to a powerboat. If you're going to go after weather, including true and apparent wind, reputable instrument makers are sometimes worth the extra coin. Depends on your needs, but if you want no moving parts, this was reliable and once we had done a bit of calibration both True and Apparent wind are pretty close for a thing with no
  13. Agree with most that the "holy" Fredrickson 60 was impressive in holding power and nice to your lines. I'm currently rolling around in my laser with one of the gold colored 1.5X harken HTE auto ratchets. The holding power is great, but be warned the downside of the 1.5 and 2.0X blocks is going to be the expense of replacing your sheets more often, especially if you're using something with polypro or straight poly in the cover. These blocks really require a sheet with some technora or other high abrasion resistance in the cover if it's a sheet that will get played actively. It's bee
  14. First, download and read a copy of the class rules. Don't get rule interpretations off of this forum. Then, follow the link to the West Systems manual. Start at page 88, read until end. Any composite concepts you're not familiar with, start from page 1. Note that this is information . . . which is not a substitute for experience and skill. https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Fiberglass-Manual-2015.pdf A J24 is an asymmetric egg; this process is difficult on a boat that is well built, much less a boat like the 24. And you don't want the class minimums for a keel sh
  15. If you have a boat that requires lead corrector weights, you're better served by a bolted in/permanently mounted step box. This will be heavier, safer, and incorporated in the Basic Yacht Dry weight (1270kg), whereas without the same step-box weight you would be carrying that equivalent weight further towards the ends in the form of lead corrector weights (most coolers you can bolt/fit in the same space are significantly lighter than the OEM step box or equivalent). Just an amateur perspective.
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