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Everything posted by kprice

  1. I hoist mine in the rafters.....it is 16 ft long and 200 lbs. Here is the iPhone version: https://garagesmart.com/collections/all/products/universal-xl-hd Non-iPhone version https://www.etrailer.com/Watersport-Carriers/Thule/TH572.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google | Shop - Watersport Carriers&adgroupid=99518060839&campaignid=202839977&creative=431609811311&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9032191&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&a
  2. Make a long one-wheel cart with two handles like a wheelbarrow and navigate down the dock.
  3. Laminated chine log. Tapered strips can be ripped on a table saw.
  4. For the chines, would a strip-plank method work, similar to what is used for cedar canoes? Some intermediate frames to control the radius could be added in between the frames needed for the bottom and top side stations.
  5. More extensive build blog for the 3.7 https://davesfarr37project.weebly.com/daves-farr37-build-blog/archives/03-2012
  6. Depending on your ambition, the Farr 3.7 site offers CAD files for laser cutting. Not stitch and glue, but it assembles over frames that stay in the boat as structure. Rig (carbon) and sail would need to come from NZ or GB. https://www.3-7class.org.nz/ Build blog https://www.peterkovesi.com/home/farr37/
  7. P. K. was about your size when he augmented his fleet of Contenders with a 29er size spin. There was a fleet of 3 in Santa Cruz before his interests moved on. The boats were sold to Florida as a group, so some may still be in the augmented state. Sailing at 280 in a Contender would be fun starting about 15kts. I sail at 200 and I am powered up after about 12 kts upwind.
  8. kprice

    Farr 3,7

    Fantastic....did you build from the plans (i.e. laser cut ply ) or make a set of molds?
  9. I agree with your thinking but WTF is going on with the mainsheet? Classic 70's rigging, before they figured out that you need lowers to the gooseneck and an 16:1 vang. Then you can use mid-boom sheeting and get rid of the traveller.....
  10. When you download Delftship it comes with some examples. One is a chined tug. To see the developed panels, go to the view task. As for designing a chined shape, I have not done it....but I would start with the tug example and work backwards.
  11. The free version of Delftship will develop plates....
  12. Thanks. Tor some reason cannot respond directly. The boat building thing never goes away; sleeps a bit, but comes back, always. Looking forward to the communication

  13. Phil, does the mainsheet as universal joint have enough torsional stiffness to work for a Moth-style screw adjustment for the rudder horizontal AOA?
  14. Is the wire bail spring-loaded so it snaps open and closed?
  15. The problem with braided PBO is creep, or at least that's what I found when I used it. Eventually it will set, but not until all the purchase in your adjustable shroud tackle has been used up and you can't get them tight any more. Every time you go sailing you just pull on more and more shroud tension as it creeps, until you hit the end. They loosen up again when you derig the boat. 1/8" might be better than the stuff I used, which was bigger. It is excellent for rigging up shrouds on the fly though - just some T-terminal loops and you are good to go. I think Anders used my old set at a r
  16. This is the best April Fool's posting I have seen.... KP
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