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ZeeZee

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  1. To what extend is this because your instruments are not properly calibrated? Once my instruments were calibrated, I found the ORC speedguide for my 111 extremely accurate.
  2. Are you able to get enough tension on the bobstay to make it effectively work? When the bobstay runs to the end of the sprit the pulling angle is not very effective and as you can't use a turnbuckle to pre-tension the bobstay I wonder if it effectively prevents the sprit from moving upwards in case the code 0 is pulling hard.
  3. 60-70 indeed not ideal. To close to use a outboard sheet or strut. I use a 2m long strut fixed with a soft shackle to a through-deck pad-eye. At the side of the jib the strut is fixed to an outboard sheet. I think IRC requires you to fix the strut at the mast (not ideal as it put a lot of side-compression force at the mast; somehow these rating rules always force you to make a less than ideal setup :-) ).
  4. "With 90′ of waterline reaching at TWA 80-100 we knew this was mostly about minimizing our losses. Very uncomfortable in a J/111…" Don't you use a reaching strut in these conditions? Using a strut I find reaching in 90-110 with only jib and main very comfortable and fast.
  5. You can easily convert it by: Upwind: BSP = VMG / Cos(beat angle) Downwind: BSP = VMG / Cos(180-run angle) So e.g at TWS 12kt for this J/99 polar: Upwind target BSP = 5.05 / Cos(38.3) = 6.45
  6. e.g.: https://data.orc.org/public/WPub.dll/CC/ITA00052724.pdf
  7. On my boat the mast is sealed at the partners with a lot (and I mean a lot) of self vulcanizing tape. This has been completely watertight. If the boat has been on the dock and it has rained a lot, there is water in the bilge which entered via the mast openings of the halyards. When sailing there is water entering via the sprit. I don't think this is because it enters via the front seal in the bow (yes, waters enter through it, but it will fall down in the anchor locker). I believe waters is flushed over the anchor locker at the deck (when sailing on port tack). From there it fal
  8. When it comes to buying a new c-map (4D) chart or upgrading an existing chart for Expedition my experience has always been very negative. Simply too complicated if you are used to the ease of upgrading a chart in an app like Navionics. About 5 weeks ago I spent half a day trying to upgrade a chart and buy a new chart for the Expedition install on the boat of a friend of mine. We got (jscript) errors on the C-map website, the money was reserved on his credit card and we were simply not able to get the charts on the pc. We submitted a ticket to c-map but until today didn't hear anythin
  9. Not that I'm aware off. It would be easy to implement, but it looks like nke is not doing active developments anymore. I wonder when those companies start realizing they are in the software business and need to push out frequent updates to keep up with customer requirements. In practice it's not a problem as I have expedition publishing the target TWA - leeway on the displays. So that is then the number you can compare the actual TWA to when trying to point for optimal VMG.
  10. Correct. If your instruments DO take leeway into account (e.g. BG H5000). But e.g. NKE does not take leeway into account for the TWA value they display. So in hat case you need to be aware of this.
  11. To be able to compare your upwind leg to the polars, your instruments really need to be calibrated well.in Is your speedo calibrated correctly around the target speed and is it still well calibrated when you are heeled at 25-30 degrees? At my boat the speedo would indicate a speed about 3-4% too high when heeled and not properly calibrated (compared to a flat boat at that same speed) The target TWA as published in the ORC guide includes leeway. So if your instruments do not take that into account, it means that to achieve the target TWA of 38, your instruments should show TWA aroun
  12. Before doing such an upgrade I would ask for underpinning VPP (or other sound) numbers. Likely such upgrade are like in high end audio: many times it's just snake oil sold by a sleek marketing story while in reality there is zero difference. And if many other cases such "upgrades" make the product to perform even worse. But as the owner paid a lot of money for it he will of course report that the upgrade is substantial and that he is very happy with it. So therefore: ask for some objective proof that it is indeed an improvement.
  13. I use the European North settings (with North 3Di sails) and they seem to be good. My jib is on soft hanks. From what I understand, the US boats have turnbuckles with a different (finer) threat, so you need to put on many more turns to achieve the same effect for your heavy weather setting. The RT-10 reading on the lowers is not very critical as just a small adjustment makes a big difference. E.g. only half a turn of the (European) lowers increase the reading from 22 to 26. So that may explain the difference in the Q and North guide. But ball park the 22 is good for a base settin
  14. When motoring for longer periods I do about 2000 rpm which is indeed about somewhere around 5,8 kt.
  15. I use a long tack line (about 25m). Before dousing a drop the tail of the tack line and the halyard in the water on the leeward side of the boat. This way I'm sure there will be no kinks in the line when releasing the stopper. And also it adds a nice piece of friction to dampen the line when being released (I have a figure 8 knot at the end of the halyard, no knot the tack line). Once I have collected the foot of the gennaker I can open the clutch of the halyard. This has just the right amount of friction in the water so I can take the sail down into the companionway is a controlled
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