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Everything posted by ZeeZee

  1. I use the European North settings (with North 3Di sails) and they seem to be good. My jib is on soft hanks. From what I understand, the US boats have turnbuckles with a different (finer) threat, so you need to put on many more turns to achieve the same effect for your heavy weather setting. The RT-10 reading on the lowers is not very critical as just a small adjustment makes a big difference. E.g. only half a turn of the (European) lowers increase the reading from 22 to 26. So that may explain the difference in the Q and North guide. But ball park the 22 is good for a base settin
  2. When motoring for longer periods I do about 2000 rpm which is indeed about somewhere around 5,8 kt.
  3. I use a long tack line (about 25m). Before dousing a drop the tail of the tack line and the halyard in the water on the leeward side of the boat. This way I'm sure there will be no kinks in the line when releasing the stopper. And also it adds a nice piece of friction to dampen the line when being released (I have a figure 8 knot at the end of the halyard, no knot the tack line). Once I have collected the foot of the gennaker I can open the clutch of the halyard. This has just the right amount of friction in the water so I can take the sail down into the companionway is a controlled
  4. Let me know if you face problems. I have a full NKE system with Regatta processor running with Expedition, including sending data to the displays. Works perfectly!
  5. When sailing solo or 2-handed on the 111 I drop below the boom in the companionway until approximately 15 kt and letterbox in stronger winds. Then re-pack to launch from the bag in the rail.
  6. At least on the European boats there is already a standard fitting on the bow to tack a jib.
  7. For the starboard locker the boat comes with an insert-box. This box is about 2-3x as deep as the port locker. However you need to remove this box when you want the life raft to fit into the starboard locker. The raft stays directly on the bunk and you can grab it through the cockpit locker or inside the cabin.
  8. On my (Europe built) 111 there is 1 locker underneath the port cockpit bench and 1 underneath the starboard. The one on port is very shallow (maybe 15cm) and only usable for e.g. storing lines. The one on starboard basically doesn't contain a bottom. So when you open it you look straight into the starboard aft bunk. There you can store your raft (assuming it is small enough to fit through the open bench hatch in the cockpit.
  9. I use a Zodiac raft in a valise that I store (like Blur) in the starboard locker. Be aware that not all rafts will fit through the locker hatch, so take this into account when buying one. https://www.inflatablesintl.com/product/zodiac-coaster-iso-9650-4-person-life-raft-bag/
  10. Why do you think that? I race and cruise a 111 solo as well as two handed. Boat is very easy to operate and a blast to sail.
  11. How does that work with the chart plotter? I hardly ever stand behind the wheel (only sometimes when going downwind in heavy weather). I normally sit beside or in front of the wheel. So doesn't make is more sense to mount the plotter with the screen facing frontwards or make it pivoting so you can turn it around depending where you sit/stand?
  12. @jsam31 Do you happen to know what the latest software version for the Regatta Processor is?
  13. It definitely lowers the barrier to go for a short evening cruise when you have a furled jib ready to be used when you want. I have the soft hanks. And great as they are, there is always the extra work of hanking on a jib and sheets when you want to go for a sail. Not to talk about flaking and storing it once you return. But apart from that it is imho the best options when sailing short handed.
  14. It's just fit and finish. The veneer is very easily dented and because of the sharp edges these are also potential spots of damage. It is "OK-isch", but for a boat this price you would expect much better. And had they used composite materials instead of veneered wood it would last longer (and likely had saved weight). Maybe it's better in the US built boats? Regarding the wheel instead of tiller: both have pro's and con's. When sailing shorthanded I use the autopilot 90% of the time anyway (also for tacks and gybes). Then the advantage is that you don't have a tiller s
  15. I can echo Blur's comment. I use my 111 almost every weekend for cruising, including cooking and sleeping on board. Next month we go for a 3 week holiday on it (with the two of us). Then I do a few solo and two handed races and just a lot of solo day trips. Sleeping on the boat with 4 is perfectly doable, but you need to deal with all the luggage laying around (as there are no cabinets for storage). For the purpose you intent to use the boat for, I think the 111 has the followings pro's: - minimum comfort items are available: stove, oven, fridge, head, sufficient headro
  16. I use soft hanks on my 111. Perfect solution especially when you sail shorthanded.
  17. Yes, that magnet trick is a clever one! Keep us posted!
  18. Geert, I think the NKE compass is just a NMEA 0183 compass. The compass interface box converts it to the Topline bus. The reason I think this is because when you use a Regatta processor, the compass is directly (without interface box) hooked up to the NMEA input of the regatta processor. So maybe you can buy an NMEA compass (or build one with e.g. an Arduino board) and try if this solves your pilot issue.
  19. FYI: I use the regatta compass together with the Regatta processor.
  20. Tnx. Didn't know that the sprit is in a separate compartment on the J/112 (on my 111 it's naked in the cabin...)
  21. The movement of the pilot all depends on sea state and the gain I have set it to. In calm water it sometime only makes a correction after 10 (or more) seconds or so. I more rough water it may be a few seconds or maybe twice a second. I have 9 presets configured that define gain, rudder coeff. counter rudder and wind damping. Then once a setting is chosen I do some fine tuning of the Gain when needed. The 9 presets are for UP, Reach and Downwind. And then for High, Medium and Low winds each.
  22. Hi Geert, Two questions: - did you have this problem from the start or was your pilot working fine in the past and is now for whatever reason having this strange behavior? - did you try to re-initialize your pilot (in the menu there is an initialize option. You then have to set the rudder to the exact middle position, then fully right, fully left and back in the middle again. This re-initialization would be the first thing to try. When sailing on the North Sea or IJsselmeer my NKE works absolutely perfect and responds well to the various tuning options via gain, rudder
  23. What happens to the water that will get into the sprit via the hole in the end cap. Can it drain somewhere without getting into the interior of the boat?
  24. Once you start using Expedition or another software to do the performance calculation, you should modify the config file to include the line Performance= N. (This is likely set to Y in your config file now). This ensures the polar is no longer taken from the regatta processor, but from Expedition instead
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