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Posts posted by ZeeZee

  1. I use the European North settings (with North 3Di sails) and they seem to be good. My jib is on soft hanks.

    From what I understand,  the US boats have turnbuckles with a different (finer) threat, so you need to put on many more turns to achieve the same effect for your heavy weather setting.

    The RT-10 reading on the lowers is not very critical as just a small adjustment makes a big difference. E.g. only half a turn of the (European) lowers increase the reading from 22 to 26.  So that may explain the difference in the Q and North guide.   But ball park the 22 is good for a base setting to my experience.



  2. I use a long tack line (about 25m).

    Before dousing a drop the tail of the tack line and the halyard in the water on the leeward side of the boat.  This way I'm sure there will be no kinks in the line when releasing the stopper. And also it adds a nice piece of friction to dampen the line when being released (I have a figure 8 knot at the end of the halyard,  no knot  the tack line).  Once I have collected the foot of the gennaker I can open the clutch of the halyard.  This has just the right amount of friction in the water so I can take the sail down into the companionway is a controlled way.






  3. 14 hours ago, Roleur said:

    Haven't tried yet.  That's next on the list.  Actually using the StripChart is next, then that.

    Are you able to receive, but not send?


    Let me know if you face problems.  I have a full NKE system with Regatta processor running with Expedition, including sending data to the displays.  Works perfectly!

  4. For the starboard locker the boat comes with an insert-box.  This box is about 2-3x as deep as the port locker.  However you need to remove this box when you want the life raft to fit into the starboard locker.  The raft stays directly on the bunk and you can grab it through the cockpit locker or inside the cabin.

  5. On my (Europe built) 111 there is 1 locker underneath the port cockpit bench and 1 underneath the starboard.

    The one on port is very shallow (maybe 15cm) and only usable for e.g. storing lines.

    The one on starboard basically doesn't contain a bottom.  So when you open it you look straight into the starboard aft bunk.  There you can store your raft (assuming it is small enough to fit through the open bench hatch in the cockpit.

  6. 49 minutes ago, GHarring19 said:

    Yup I own Thunder


    I think the 111 is an insanely cool boat - but you need a big team to operate it. I can run the 99 with my wife while she is reading a book - click on the autopilot, up on main, roll out the jib, cross sheet it, and run the whole boat myself (mainsheet w tweeker / traveller/ backstay are all right there) . Also - I am coming from a Lightning, so having a tiller for me is absolutely awesome. 


    Why do you think that?

    I race and cruise a 111 solo as well as two handed.  Boat is very easy to operate and a blast to sail.





  7. How does that work with the chart plotter?

    I hardly ever stand behind the wheel (only sometimes when going downwind in heavy weather).  I normally sit beside or in front of the wheel.  So doesn't make is more sense to mount the plotter with the screen facing frontwards or make it pivoting so you can turn it around depending where you sit/stand?

  8. It definitely lowers the barrier to go for a short evening cruise when you have a furled jib ready to be used when you want.

    I have the soft hanks.  And great as they are,  there is always the extra work of hanking on a jib and sheets when you want to go for a sail.  Not to talk about flaking and storing it once you return.   But apart from that it is imho the best options when sailing short handed.

  9. 13 hours ago, amFast said:

    Regarding build quality, is it just the fit and finish of the furniture or are there quality concerns that are eventually going to cause issues?

    It's just fit and finish.   The veneer is very easily dented and because of the sharp edges these are also potential spots of damage.  It is "OK-isch", but for a boat this price you would expect much better.  And had they used composite materials instead of veneered wood it would last longer (and likely had saved weight).

    Maybe it's better in the US built boats?


    Regarding the wheel instead of tiller:   both have pro's and con's.   When sailing shorthanded I use the autopilot 90% of the time anyway (also for tacks and gybes). Then the advantage is that you don't have a tiller sweeping around in the cockpit and the pedestal is a good place to hold on when conditions are tough. But for quick manual intervention is critical situations a tiller is easier for sure.



  10. I can echo Blur's comment.   

    I use my 111 almost every weekend for cruising, including cooking and sleeping on board.   Next month we go for a 3 week holiday on it (with the two of us).  Then I do a few solo and two handed races and just a lot of solo day trips.  Sleeping on the boat with 4 is perfectly doable,  but you need to deal with all the luggage laying around (as there are no cabinets for storage). 

    For the purpose you intent to use the boat for, I think the 111 has the followings pro's:

    - minimum comfort items are available: stove, oven, fridge, head, sufficient headroom, v-berth, proper cabin space to sit and relax on poor weather days spent in the marina.  We really like it that the boat has no table in the cabin.  This gives a lot of space to move both during sailing as well as when docked.

    - this is a relatively light boat, which makes it easy to dock, pass locks etc. when you are short handed.

    - you can make sailing the boat as challenging or easy as you want. Go with just main or a jib only on stormy cruising days and blast with the gennaker when you want. I use jibs on soft hanks.

    - easy to sail solo or two handed;  just make sure you have a proper autopilot and do a few tweaks like bringing outhaul and cunningham back to clutches in the cockpit.

    - it's fast and fun!   It goes very well upwind too;   nice if you only have the evening after work available and you need to return to your marina after a downwind leg.


    The con's might include:

    - no separate cabins  aft.   Heads not enclosed

    - a bit of water will leak from the sprit on the v-berth.. Just make sure you take your matras and bedding away when beating in windy conditions.

    - no storage space for clothing etc.  You need to live from what is in your bag.  We sleep in the v-berth and use the space aft for sail storage.   Bags with luggage hang around on the settees or the cabin floor.

    - build quality of the interior is very mediocre.  E.g. a 109 is much better.   (although my personal preference would have been that they didn't use any wood/laminate at all but used GFK/Carbon instead).


    Hope this helps.  Let me know when you need more info.


  11. Geert,

    I think the NKE compass is just a NMEA 0183 compass.  The compass interface box converts it to the Topline bus.   The reason I think this is because when you use a Regatta processor, the compass is directly (without interface box) hooked up to the NMEA input of the regatta processor.

    So maybe you can buy an NMEA compass (or build one with e.g. an Arduino board) and try if this solves your pilot issue.


  12. The movement of the pilot all depends on sea state and the gain I have set it to.

    In calm water it sometime only makes a correction after 10 (or more) seconds or so.   I more rough water it may be a few seconds or maybe twice a second.  

    I have 9 presets configured that define gain, rudder coeff. counter rudder and wind damping.   Then once a setting is chosen I do some fine tuning of the Gain when needed.

    The 9 presets are for  UP, Reach and Downwind.   And then for High, Medium and Low winds each.


  13. Hi Geert,

    Two questions:

    - did you have this problem from the start or was your pilot working fine in the past and is now for whatever reason having this strange behavior?

    - did you try to re-initialize your pilot (in the menu there is an initialize option.   You then have to set the rudder to the exact middle position,  then fully right, fully left and back in the middle again.   This re-initialization would be the first thing to try.

    When sailing on the North Sea or IJsselmeer my NKE works absolutely perfect and responds well to the various tuning options via gain, rudder coefficient etc.



  14. Once you start using Expedition or another software to do the performance calculation, you should modify the config file to include the line Performance= N.  (This is likely set to Y in your config file now).

    This ensures the polar is no longer taken from the regatta processor, but from Expedition instead

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