Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Whiner

About thorpecameron

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

237 profile views
  1. To spin the paddlewheel fast for testing when removed... after making sure it is clean... I have found taking a big breath and blowing gets max speed.
  2. key words are "should" and "probably".... you want to "know" and be "certain" Most paddlewheel transducers are designed to be removed while the boat is in the water. Pull it out and quickly put the designed plug in its place. If your good less than a cup of water will come in. Then it is easy to test and "know"
  3. This is quite likely! Remove paddle wheel transducer and clean. While out give the paddlewheel a spin while having someone else by the instrument to establish if it is working.
  4. The more affordable ballpark! I think better options than an S&S34 would be a Farr 1104 or 1020. A Bene 40.7 could also be good if weather favoured the slower boats... Interestingly we had a conversation on Filepro after finishing the last Hobart about what it would take to win overall handicap. Initially everyone was saying TP52 or bigger to which I argued we would never be able to compete with the arms race... and the best chance we have to to be at the other extreme with a great rating fully optimised and worked over slower boat and just keep doing the race every year until yo
  5. I think this beats it for beam as a percentage of length.... Overall length of 29 feet 10 inches (a smidgen over 9m), she is 14 feet 7 inches (4.4 m) at max beam
  6. Have you checked the exhaust elbow on the motor? On numerous brands they gradually block up over time. I have a Volvo D1-20 and lost top end revs and found lots of black crap came out exhaust if you pushed it hard (overfueling) This quickly got worse over a long weekend to the point I could only go to 2000rpm with out the black crap... Cleared out the elbow and back to normal...more grunt, no black crap. I was stunned by how much the exhaust had blocked up.
  7. Yeah but I don’t get to spend your parents money the way you do, I just get to fuck your mom. I'm with Max. He gives you a valid reply and you respond like an arsehole. The sectional shape gives a lot of strength under compression. Just think about how you can stand on a empty beer can... but the moment you dent it, it collapses. Cutting the slot and bending has a similar effect to denting the can. So unless the section is massively over the strength required I wouldn't try it. As soon as part of the section wall is no longer in line with the compression force the compression
  8. Connect the relief valve outlet to the water tank breather hose... that way any slight leakage goes back into the tank
  9. By the the best cockpit drain ever invented is.... the open transom! Also easier access on and off the boat or getting onboard after a swim! Do it! you will never look back!
  10. Had new washboards from Acrylic made as the old plywood ones were looking tired... Took the old ones to supplier and 3 hours later picked up new ones cut to size with edges flamed smooth. All I had to do was switch the fittings over. Cost was not much more than I would have spent on paint! Had a left over set of sign writing so thought why not stick on the washboards...
  11. But it was quick! I firmly believe the 4 up crews gain an advantage.
  12. A much cheaper option for topsides is a vinyl wrap... typically 1/4 to 1/3 the cost
  13. Well done! Boat looks amazing. Can't believe the transformation. But the cockpit lockers are begging for a lick of paint like you have done to the ones in the cockpit floor.
  • Create New...