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Everything posted by Dart96

  1. These people produce aluminium extruded sections. The Argie has a dagger board so this would be good http://www.windknife.com
  2. Depends what the worry is: 1) Speed of boom is a handling issue. 2) contact with heads can be mitigated by raising the boom. Either cut 12" of the bottom or use a shorter luff sail. I've done this on a Wayfarer and. Laser.(I shortened the leach by 12" 3) Impact? Add a carbon boom to reduce the weight of the boom. I'm not keen on helmets on slow boats, I'd rather adapt the sailplan.
  3. On the river Dart, UK we have big open water swims, hundreds of swimmers, there are jetskis as support/rescue. No problems. "I’ve ridden a jet ski as a safety vehicle for The Big Float and the World Record Human Innertube Chain (>700). A good tool, but only for expert level" (Dumas) Why do you have to be an expert to drive one safely? What's the problem? We have a small club on flat salt water and getting Safety boat crews is difficult, we can't get trained crews other than PB2. I can borrow a jetski and use it for club events, what's the problem envisaged?
  4. Overal which is likely to be safer for people in the water, a tiller steered outboat boat or a wheel steered center console one?
  5. 5hp and a Whitehall is exactly what we use.
  6. We built a trailer tonge dolly for club heavy weight dinghies; worked well. Allows two people to pull easily and there is often a member of the public to help push.
  7. Get a mast float, last time I had to be rescued was wind and tide together, capsized a Laser, it turttled, wind and tide drove the mast into the mud. No way I'd be able to get it off. Was gong to swim home but nice person in a power boat pulled it out.
  8. Looks like you don't want to spend much Dinghies need stability to work so if you can't do hanging over the side and you don't want some sort of multi/dinghy then that only leaves moving your weight out without hiking. This means, seats, wings all of which get complicated and expensive. So my suggestion is to stick with your cheap Laser and add some short stubby wings so your bum is the same distance out from the centre as you would be if you were able to hike hard and then stick with the same central toe strap If it was me I'd use some of the 3/4" ply I've got from my lat
  9. Here on the Dart I have often seen Wayfarers with small outboards. One of the problems with OBs on dinghies is that they are heavy and if you go to the stern to start/stop/ lift/refuel and so on, the stern sinks and they get all wobbly. Wayfarers are ok because they weigh a ton and have a great big fat backside. I occasionally use a Dreascombe lugger, it's really not a dinghy in any meaningful way. Looks great, sails like a brick, worst steering system known to mankind and the outboard is behind the nastiest rudder I have ever had the misfortune to drop on my toe. However for 5
  10. Dex on Dec 22nd noted the Logo. I've just realised what it is. Really neat, lovely bit of graphic design
  11. Is that mast gate standard? Some serious adjustment available! Looks well engineered
  12. Boat never measured. So no sail number It's a crew deck one like an FD so the Vertical distance between the mast step and the foredeck is about 250mm. So I don't think the mast chocks will do much. I'm going to run the lowers from the shroud adjustment racks below the gunwale upto the spinnaker pole eye and down to one of the winches. Spinnaker pole eye is 1430mm above the foot.
  13. It has a seat, which was one reason for taking it. (It was a free boat and I always liked Hornets) Boat has two winches at the mast foot, one was for the pole uphaul, I'm going to repurpose it for Lowers, would they provide enough fore and aft bend control?
  14. Good solid advice. Thanks
  15. This is going to be on a 1974 Rigden hull. Pre epoxy, been instore for 15yrs or more. I don't think it will take much rig tension. Hornet tuning guide says 350-400lbs on the genoa. I can't imagine I'll get that. So I'm begining thinking that as spreaders need this sort of rig tension to work and I'm not prepared to do it up that tight (rightly or wrongly) then should I look at a different system. Could go for diamonds like the Laser 2? I have dealt with Selden dealer in Plymouth before, nice people. However the prices were well over what I was prepared to pay. I can make an
  16. Anybody know of a good text on spreader set up?
  17. Yes, gives length and deflection but not advice on style of spreader, I'll hapily go for the locked version if that works best. Saves a lot of time.
  18. I'm renovating a 1974 Hornet, 16ft. Spreaders are limited swing ones. The adjuster screws have corroded solid, so despite weeks in coke, heat and swearing they are not going to move. I can make new inner ends and restore it to previous glory or do something else. I can get a set with small bottle screws behind the spreader or lock them. Any suggestions?
  19. We have a trolley for a Wanderer (14ft version of the wayfarer), it has a pair of 35cm wheels mounted about 70cm apart on a turntable at the front of the trolley. The turntable has a 120cm SS tube hinged to it with a T handle. Two people on the T handle and one pushing will pull it up a lumpy rocky foreshore. We also have a hand winch at the top of the slope and use it for heavier boats, like a Drascombe Lugger. I have used it when recovering a Wayfarer by myself.
  20. From what I remember, the FA is a very small class, so unlikely to be much specific. Most gear will be generic.
  21. Thanks, good to hear your experience.
  22. I'm going to put a boot top on my Hornet this winter. You've done a great job on the 5oh how did you do it?
  23. Simple fix. Bit of wood from the sail cut out on the mast to the back corner of the sail, lashed on. Sail will press against it on one tack and not on the other. Doesn't matter. You need a boom for this rig. boat is not long enough or wide enough to use a loose footed one like in your picture. Bit of 2" by 1" should do.
  24. Fit the boom from the windsurfing rig as well.
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