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Dart96

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Everything posted by Dart96

  1. Hot moulding needs a lot of investment, so this is probably cold moulded and as it has no builders plate maybe a one off home built. Cold moulding at home used to be a quite popular way of building boats.
  2. Yes, always tap holes for bolts and use lube. Parafin works ok for aluminium. Do it slowly. Half turn forwards, quarter back to break up the dwarf.
  3. Checked out the 2019 class rules: C.9 RIG The following is permitted without the approval of the ICA Technical Committee. Unless stated otherwise items mentioned in this section may be obtained from any manufacturer or supplier. Localised repairs to damaged equipment may be undertaken. Any repair shall not be used to reinforce an existing part or add a function. C.9.1 MODIFICATIONS, MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR (a) Replacement of fittings may be made and if needed to facilitate repair the fitting may be modified to accommodate slightly larger fixings. I can see why JB p
  4. Ok, I see my mistake. I'd assumed that as there is an angled lower edge to the upper section the there was a matching angled cut on the lower section. The two parts mating with an internal sleeve inside the lower section. The RS Feva has this system. So on the 29er the only thing stopping the masts sliding into each other is a few bolts! Oh dear, Oooops!! I can see the problem. How one design is this boat? Laser restriction style? If not I would make or find an internal sleeve identical to the lower section. Maybe 6" long. Push it up the upper section so that it would res
  5. I have never seen a 29er, I'm trying to understand the reason why the two sections move into each other. The top section has an angled cut which mates to the angled cut on the lower section, so the top mast can only move downward if is can also moved aft at the same time. Is this correct? The original sleeve was a snug fit in the upper section, so to make it move aft the diameter of the sleeve must be reducing. The only way this can be happening is wear due to movement between the two parts? I have read the attached docs a couple of times. B suggests using rivets in
  6. That's a bit harsh, I assume you aren't the above.
  7. I'd go for the Zest, it has a centre board and vertical battens allowing a nice sail shape and rolling around the mast. Can have jib. Great comprise
  8. "If someone came along and made a modern-construction sunfish or a laser that was significantly cheaper, do we think that'd be the ticket?" No "A Sunfish costs $3.700. If someone really works on this... you could buy it new for $2K, Is that the barrier?" Even that cost would be too much. " Miami is jam-packed with jet skis. New from ~$7K. My friends look at me like I'm a lunatic... and then go buy fancy bicycles that cost a ton of money" Correct here in the UK as well. No shortage of cash The Zeitgeist has changed and we have all moved on. It's fun to debate reas
  9. Melges, Laser, RS all produce variations on a theme. They are all expensive. They all require training to use well, they are all aimed at some sort of racing. None offer anything new to get people into the activity and then into racing. If the way into racing hardware is to buy for fun there needs to be change in the basic design of the tools we use.
  10. OP says " store the boat in slings on its side--out of the water--when not in use. I'm separately working on a runout beam to work the slings" We need more info. My Finns weres stable enough to go right forwards and hoist the sail. However the above quote seems to rule it out.
  11. DavidYacht, thanks for the name "Morrison wires" I wondered what they were called. Given the OP's original request and the simplicity of this solution which means being able to adjust mast bend independently of rig tension and the minimal cost involved it seems ideal.
  12. Marks are probably mould identification. Is this a Holt boat?
  13. Back to the Lindsay 5oh. Can someone please expalin thei statement from the ad: "jibing High Aspect Ratio Centerboard (Note about 1-2 inch max of water will enter the boat when it sits in the water and is not moving at all, which is common for jibe / tilt control centerboards. Boat has 3 Anderson self bailers that start suction for a 100% dry boat at 2-3kts" Why is this common for jibing boards? Doesn't it have a normal CB case? Looks normal to me..
  14. Links in your first post did not work so couldn't see her righting solo. Can you post again? This always seems to be the limiting factor for high performance skiffs. If they stay upright fine and I've seen videos of people trying to right 49ers and having a really hard time. TBH the thought of being alone in the middle of Torbay in a F4 easterly and swell with a capsized 49er or similar is not attractive. Chase boats are a luxury.
  15. Certainly possible, the only limitation would be righting from a capsize. Will the sailor be heavy enough? Do it with a chase boat and then that wouldn't matter.
  16. Jeffrey H if that's your Ent in the profile Pic looks like you've got a tanked one. Good choice. So much better than the bagged ones for righting
  17. I'm the same weight, totally agree about the Needlespars. Bruders must be very rare now.
  18. One pointfivethumb is dead right here. " What do you find yourself daydreaming about most? What would your google history show most often? " I'm 57 and dreampt/dreamed? about going fast and light and easy on my body (Laser sailor with sore knees) and I'll be honest as well..showing off to the crowd. This it turned out was important to me. Solution was Windsurfers and now fixing up my Division 2 board, had lots of fun on a Raceboard and a WOD. I had 2 Finns and still dream about them. But the physics of a steep rocky foreshore and being alone comes back to me. I had an IC and mem
  19. Proctor used a similar hull shape and construction to the Osprey in his Seagull and Seamew cruisers. Both had a good reputation for speed. Both were available as Kits from Bell Woodworking Leicester UK. In the 70's I saw one of their catalogues and I'm starting to think they may have sold Osprey kits as well.
  20. This raises an interesting question. As I said earlier there is complete Osprey not far from me that is as far as I'm concerned past economic repair. If I had the space I could get it for about £120. So I would then be an owner of an Osprey, I could measure it up and produce an accurate copy, there is enough measurement detail on the 2019 Certification docs to make it class compliant. Would this be acceptable to the class association or would they refuse to register the boat? I did an Espacenet check and though Proctor has Patents none are comming up reagrding the Osprey and it is no
  21. Was the Osprey ever scratch built at home or was it always from a kit?
  22. Curved cockpit looks lovely. Some Pata Finns have the same feature. It never seems to have caught on.
  23. Just realised what I need. UV activated adhesives have been around for a while now, this one is a double sided tape https://www.uv-lux.de/en#advantages However if one could be made that was as easy to use as Duct tape/cloth tape and would bond to thin ply, then rather than a messy, wasteful and smelly mixing of epoxy you could literally tape the hull together and go around with a UV light source setting it all up. Do it carefully and It would look fine. Then we could put CNC wooden hull kits together faster. Users would be familiar with basic techniques as we've all used tape.
  24. No, just the simplest metric. Judging from the discussions about handicapping on Y+Y forum there is no way of making anything more complex say anything worthwhile. All models are wrong, some are useful and in the case of planing sailing boats the more complex the model the less useful
  25. OP suggested Paper Jet so I suppose that's the sort of thing he is interested in. If you calculate kg/upwind sail (msq) for the Paper Jet it works out at about 3.3, for a 420 it's about 7.8 and for a 49er it's about 4.7 (numbers taken of Wikipedia). So maybe any thing under 5 is "High performance" There are losds of other metrics as well, I'm trying to work out what the OP wants
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