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Feisty!

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Everything posted by Feisty!

  1. Feisty!

    Vakaros

    Order #4900 placed 8/9/2021 just delivered ...
  2. Vacuum has effects that mechanical compression does not - like causing things like water and polyester resin to vaporize (boil) ...
  3. I would expect that wood would outgas slowly under vacuum, possibly producing bubbles. Simple vacuum bagging would preserve the bubbles when cured. Infusion, with a suitable dwell under vacuum and before introduction of resin should reduce the bubbling as well as pressure impregnating the surface of the wood. There are products available for use as flow media that can be left in the composite. For small areas and slow kicking epoxies, common wedding veil from a fabric store seems worth trying.
  4. Given the OP's premise of removing one day's accumulation, and the habit of growth focusing on the shallowest part of the hull where the sun can penetrate, I'd think one could do a 95% job keeping one's head above water and wielding scotchbrite with one hand while hanging on to the gunwale or suction gizmo with the other ...
  5. That's my question. If there's no adhesive the composite has all the strength one expects. If there's a continuous layer of adhesive, it's the strength of the adhesive that rules. Reality is somewhere in between. Unless the resin somehow combines/absorbs/dissolves the adhesive. Which would allow the layup to sag ??? My current plan is to apply the 71 with a roller, lightly to one side of the flow media to stick it to the overhead inside of the outer skin. I can't talk myself into attempting to hang the balsa with 711 too. I will apply beads of Six10 parallel to the resin flow on the flow
  6. Replacing deck balsa core from underneath. Using 71 to hang flow media on outer skin, then possibly 1/4" balsa to the flow media. Then new inner skin, peel ply, bag and infusion ...
  7. Replacing deck balsa core from underneath. Using 71 to hang flow media on outer skin, then possibly 1/4" balsa to the flow media.
  8. Looking for experience with this stuff: composite strength degradation vs application density, actual tack time window vs temperature, bond strength vs application density, gotchas ...
  9. It's winter in the Rockies and I, thru egregious lack of planning, am doing deck core replacement outdoors in between winter weather episodes. I can get the interior of the boat (I'm replacing the core from underneath) up to 70F by clever application of timing and electric heat. My question is: once the resin has kicked, does temperature have any effect other than speed of cure ?
  10. There appears to be a lazy fourth sheet led to the starboard side of this no-longer-self-tacking rig ...
  11. RV practice is separate pickups in the tank with the genset pickup higher so you've got enough fuel to motor ...
  12. The cantilever puts the far fastener in tension not shear. Pop rivets are really bad at tension. I'd use a SS machine screw and nylon lock nut with your favorite smoodge.
  13. This suggests to me that the rivet was not down tight before being set and the fitting could "work" back and forth to fatigue the head off. No picture, but I'd guess the fitting was cantilevered out into space and the far rivet failed ...
  14. That can be said about any information from any material manufacturer ...
  15. Seems to me that the majority of friction will be due to the scheme for keeping the balls properly spaced (or not: full complement). I've seen cages, spacers, counter-rotating-slightly-smaller-balls, etc. All of these have some sort of drag, especially when used with lubricant and the associated seals/shields necessary to keep said lubricant captured/clean. The only practical way of comparing bearings would seem to be testing. That said, the original question of larger or smaller balls may have a difference when it come to acceleration/deceleration which is mathematically beyond me any mo
  16. Beware of the spreader hole !!! It is a massive stress riser right where your bend is. The pole lift exit block will be somewhere close by also. Schock did a terrible job cutting these holes, leaving sharp corners . Most of the S20 masts I've seen broken, failed through one or the other of these two spots. Your bend looks to be centered around the top of the lower shroud ( another pair of holes, but round ), so there may be a kink under the shroud bolt on the inside of the bend.
  17. Siphon it into your home's cleanout ? Just remember to stop sucking when the pressure eases ...
  18. Unleaded gas will produce a deposit on the bore wall of the main jet, reducing its size and leaning out the mixture progressively, requiring more and more choke to keep the motor running. Get a new jet or the proper size drill bit to ream it out (by hand). Second the motion to keep the vent closed. A partial tank of gas will "thermo-pump" - at night, the fuel will contract, sucking the local ambient (moist) air in; the alcohol in the unleaded will absorb the moisture; the next day, the gas will expand, venting the now dry air, ready to repeat indefinitely. I have drained a 1 quart tank a
  19. Another consideration for the perfectionists out there is leaving the end of the stranded wire unsealed for moisture to wick into the wire. Ancor wire is fully tinned to minimize corrosion (and help soldering). The gap between a crimped terminal and the insulation on the wire is difficult to seal with shrink tubing due to the irregular shape left by the crimper and a non-perfect crimp can wick moisture right through the crimp. A soldered terminal (without crimp) seals nicely but will pull apart if (seriously) overloaded current-wise. The vibration issue would seem to be tri
  20. Having worked in aerospace for a while, the procedure they use is to develop a crimp schedule for each batch of terminals and batch of wire (all aerospace grade and traceable) using calibrated crimpers and pull testers. The resultant crimps are specified in the schedule to include a certain number of additional wire strands to adjust the fill to meet the required pull spec. Then every crimp is inspected by pulling again. The pull test confirms a solid fill, which excludes corrosive moisture and insures minimal resistance (far lower than most meters can measure).. Yes, this takes
  21. If it's not the motor, check that your mast is centered - tape measure from masthead to gunwale on each side.
  22. I actually use the rum & tweezers (roach clip?) method. I enjoy the challenge !
  23. The early ones had white balls that disintegrated in UV. Harken figured that out eventually and now build them with black/brown balls that don't disintegrate so readily. Typically only the top level gets the UV. The balls from the lower levels can be reused. I have heard that the trick to assembling them is shaving cream ...
  24. Those of us with Santana 20s use lifts in preference to ramps when the choice is there. Many S20s have heavy tab under the aftmost keel bolt to lift by. If not, get a eyenut the right size. Then a length of strap that extends above the house to bear the weight, 4 guy ropes to position the lift point in the plane with the hatch boards. This will lift the boat bow down enough that the mast does not quarrel with the crane. The four guy ropes attach to reasonably hard points such as winches, mast and rudder head, fore, aft and both sides. If your crane is not taller than the masthead when on the t
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