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Diamond Jim

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52 Kiss-ass

About Diamond Jim

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  • Birthday 05/06/1943

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  • Location
    South coast, MA
  • Interests
    building, daysailing

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  1. Using epoxy under varnish makes repairing dings much more difficult. It’s hard to get the color right. If you’re willing to accept permanent bruises, go ahead. An all-varnish finish is easier to repair. One-part polyurethane is harder to sand for maintenance and two-part poly is a genuine PITA to repair. Epoxy primer under conventional (alkyd) paint is a good idea.
  2. In other construction trades, where sealing a joint that might move a bit, there’s something called ‘backer rod’, which is often a closed cell poly foam rod. It’s stuffed into a seam and is slightly compressed. THe goop sits on top of it. It’s round shape gives the goop a necked shape which makes the mass of goop more compliant and more likely to stay stuck. Probably not useful until the planking is 1/2” thick, which would introduce other issues.
  3. I think that the idea is to keep the caulking goop from bonding to the bottom of the seam, which reduces the force needed to stretch it horizontally, thus improving the odds of its sticking to the sides of the seam.
  4. I think the consensus is that laminating core and glassing overhead is very hard to do right and that it’s easier to remove the top skin and work down. Use a foam core with Coosa (formerly Penske) board patches where hardware will be bolted. Molded nonskid is not for us mortals, so that leaves applied finishes. There are several good options. Find recent thread on this.
  5. Where can I get very small quantity of 50K carbon tow (yarn)? I want to try fabricating some small hardware.
  6. What’s the commercial name for mouse fur?
  7. Believe in varnish and get good at it. Letting it slip will shorten the boat’s life. Nice boat.
  8. Zero would be way too much. Have a look at this boat, https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/alden-dolphin-3076971/ asking $95K. It’s a similar boat by the same designer and a respected builder for a small fraction of what it would cost you to build out that hull. Cflex did find a following in stretching the lives of older commercial fishin boat in the east, but didn’t catch on for recreational boats. The hulls were structurally sound, but heavy and, as pointed out, took enormous fairing labor.
  9. XPS machines OK on table saw or bandsaw. Router pilot bearings compress it and yield imprecise cuts. You might also consider smooth FRP panel at your local big box. About a tenth the cost of G10. Urethan or ISO foam would have better insulation properties.
  10. Would a dry teflon lube work? Is zinc chromate primer still available?
  11. What’s wrong with plain old bedding compound like Dolfinite? It stays gummy and can be undone.
  12. The SDS shows the kind of cyanate compounds that are used in the 2-part polyurethane finishes. Is there a chemist in the house who can explain what the cyanates do in cross-linking what’s basically an alkyd enamel? Penetrol is mostly naphtha, a kind of mineral spirits. Basic paint thinner.
  13. Perhaps a good welder could repair the toggle or the existing part could be cast using the old one as pattern. Where are you?
  14. Pettit sells a performance enhancer additive for EZ-Poxy. Has anyone evaluated it?
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