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Zach

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19 Whiner

About Zach

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  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Sailing, Motorcycles, world travel.

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  1. Buy a red end folding extension rule, and a mechanical pencil, and a stanley low angle block plane. Makes life easier, as you can measure inside dimensions closer than with a tape, mark closer than a #2, and not chip out your plywood veneer face when doing fitting work. I use a mahogany cleat on the underside of the deck, drilled with a pocket hole scew jig to hold the face up. Depending on the dimensions that can be a right angle drill job to get in from the back side, but it lets you dry fit things. Tip is to double the number of screw holes you need, before the cleat goes up... Th
  2. Study A1 and A1-15 fuel hose permeability. A2 is worse than A1, which is worse than A1-15, which is the newest standard. The other thing to ponder, is ventilating the cabinets. If you install a computer fan to positively ventilate the space, the permeability is the same over time, but sometimes the solution to pollution is dilution rather than concentrating the vapor. If the cabin is ventilated 24-7 then you get an air change every hour or so from passive ventilation. A cabinet if not vented to the cabin air, can't do anything but accumulate the vapor. No-gag when you open
  3. Give a call to south eastern foundries in Greensboro, NC. https://www.southeasternfoundries.com/ They are doing one lot parts, and do most of the struts that go on east coast boats.
  4. That is an understatement... Sanding the transom counter with a hutchins inline the last few weekends, has kicked my ass. Stripped her paint off last year, and someone had done a near gelcoat removal topsides with a decent size grinder. So, fair, she wasn't... as it was an enamel under awlgrip job that aged in dog years after I bought her. Made it back to 220 grit, but after 6 gallons of awlquick it's amazing how much shape they put into such a small area, the finer the finish the more round it gets. The short and sweet of the rudder, is the rudder shaft was not keyed long enough
  5. Thanks for the reply! I'll reach out to Lane. Did get it out over the weekend... It put up a decent fight. Did not need to dig a hole. The rudder shaft took an OTC 13 ton 2 jaw puller and heating the shaft to 350 degrees with a 6 foot long cheater pipe before finally letting go. Had to cut the fiberglass on the rudder back far enough to expose the shaft, and the top of the sickle to get the jaw puller on, and not burn the foam up. Puller needed 7 inches of reach, and enough thread to push the shaft past the jaws. The shaft is tapered and keyed. The shaft has to be worked b
  6. Have any of you pulled the rudder on one of these? Curious what the procedure looks like... I'm in the process of pulling mine to inspect, and having some difficulties. I've got side play in the gudgeon, and want to extend the keyway in the rudder shaft for a future under-deck auto pilot. 1.75 Rudder shaft comes into the rudder sickle and has a 1 1/2 nut. Gudgeon is a single piece, pintle isn't removable as it's a press fit into the sickle. From what I gather, the rudder shaft goes upward in space far enough to clear the threads, the rudder slides aft and down following
  7. Thanks for the pic! My boat has a stainless steel T-track that is mangled on one side. Has that boat been upgraded to an aluminum harken setup? I'd be curious what load range the blocks are, as a starting point. Wouldn't mind having some more modern hardware!
  8. Thanks for the picture! I was curious about where the foot blocks were mounted originally. Do you guys know where the spinnaker blocks were mounted?
  9. That's correct. They kept most of the inner skin other than raising the camber of the deck house, and built it back like a wood deck. Couple layers of 10 ounce boat cloth and paint... I pulled all the rotten plywood out, went back with foam. Deck and deck house are done, and I'm mostly through with the cockpit. That's why I'm curious about the dimensions they came out of the mold at the aft end. My plan was to put it together with a deck mounted traveler aft of the cockpit, but the more I've been crawling around the cockpit and lockers, the more it makes sense to build the aft end
  10. Nope, I've got a fiberglass Luders / Annapolis 44 rigged as a sloop that had the cockpit and deck replaced in plywood. I'll take some pictures later on today, don't seem to have any handy of the back of the cockpit.
  11. Question... I'm rebuilding the cockpit on my Luders, as she had been rebuilt in wood different from the factory plan, and rotted. I'm curious what the radius is on the rear corners of the cockpit, and how wide the traveler is? I've been doing some napkin sketches to see whether the mounting bolts would end up accessed behind the lazarette bulkhead, or with someone jammed into the cockpit locker.
  12. I use a chamfer bit, and a little dab of bondo for temporary hole filling. It kicks in ten minutes, and is soft enough to disappear when faced with a drill bit.
  13. I had a J12 foot with a 15, and would suggest a J14 if you can find one as the planing surface on the bottom is too short on the 12. Once it trims up, you don't have much surface in the water... but are pushing a lot of wake to get it up. Which means a perfectly timed row of wake/wash, and you are back pushing a lot of wake. The good news on them, as the hulls are reliable as a stone hammer. No frills, but beach it anywhere and you aren't going to hurt it. If you pull the center thwart and use a cooler for a seat, they are more flexible with weight to get them up. Cheer
  14. We had some pvc runs in a shop I worked in, that were below the height of the 8 foot long light fixtures. They upgraded to a rotary screw compressor... A month or so later, I was back in the machine shop when one of the shots of pvc shattered, taking out a few rows of lights. Sounded like a shotgun went off with all the flying glass hitting the corrugated metal wall. Redid it in pvc, but lowered the light fixtures!
  15. I'd leave the bases on the tubes. Have you backed the phillips head screws out and confirmed that you can't pull the base out the 1/4 inch it takes to be clear of the toe rail? Pulpits are wet spaghetti noodles once you get the bolts out, and all you really need is a 1/4 inch of pre-load that will hold pressure while you give it a tug, and a pop with a dead blow hammer to break any corrosion to the toe rail. I'd give a spanish windlass a try between the bases, so you can pull it together and hold it there. You can use a zip-tie or hose clamp to hold the rope down low by the bas
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