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Everything posted by chris95040

  1. I think dirt sticks to flat paint about 100 times worse than glossy. Im sure that’s an over generalization though.
  2. Don’t be impatient and dumb like me. I removed my glow plugs and squirted oil in there after a 3 year hiatus. Waited a bit then turned engine by hand. Went great almost a whole revolution then stopped dead, valve stuck shut. I thought, it’s a big strong diesel and I’m a little wimp, so i pushed hard with the breaker bar on the crankshaft and... ping! Broke a rocker arm. Take it easy and open up your valve cover if things don’t feel right.
  3. Will somebody please just help this guy blow himself up?
  4. Not the least bit fair - anyways i thought it went down like this:
  5. Ummmm... I think everyone's gonna be OK my man.
  6. Appreciate the explanation, thanks for taking the time! I did chicken out on cutting the slots, the mast manufacturer had a better idea for tapering the mast without introducing so much stress but in the end I decided to hack off the rear end of the mast step and use a pin to prevent the mast from sliding aft. The mizzen’s step is a pretty complicated affair involved in securing the main sheet traveller assembly as well so if I end up rebuilding the step it’ll be an off season project.
  7. It wasn’t that I misunderstood it, it was two imperatives with no explanation. The fact that it came from a little brat with a famous racist for an avatar led me to answer in a way I felt was appropriate. Go away. Other people are contributing real things.
  8. I don’t know anything about carbon fiber but typically a mast is not made ‘for a sail configuration of XYZ’ as you state in your original post. Mast design relies just as much on the righting moment of the vessel it’s on as that’s what the rig is working against. Two boats with identical sailplans but dramatically different righting moments will require dramatically different rig designs. I see that you are plopping it on a tri (lotsa righting moment) and hoping you had an intelligent rigger verify the mast will be appropriate for that. Seems like you are on the ball enou
  9. Well, to be clear, he suggested buying a mast to ‘fit the step’ which is ridiculous - enough has changed in the rig configuration that to choose a section in that manner would be like designing a seatbelt around the print on my tee shirt. “I’m an engineer!” Lol ok. And anyone who walks around with a Mel Gibson mask on is begging for a punch in the face.
  10. I do like that idea, but i think I’ll just hack off the ass end of my mast step and stick a pin through it for this year. (Turns out I’m too chicken to attack the mast section.) Next year maybe I’ll put in fancy fit mast step. Thanks everyone for the responses, including the punk who thinks it’s ok to use Mel Gibson as his avatar.
  11. While on the subject what’d u make that sketch in? Reminds me of playing CAR BUILDER in 1985 in a good way.
  12. Sorry, I thought this was how the overprivileged little misogynistic shits talked to each other on here. My mistake!
  13. Yeah but I don’t get to spend your parents money the way you do, I just get to fuck your mom.
  14. Spoke with the spar manufacturer. They said the method the rigger suggested would be OK but that it would be preferable (stronger) to leave the sidewalls intact and just carve off the fore and aft segments that interfere with the step instead. Makes sense to me, that channel cut feels sketchy as hell. To those of you who can’t get your head around removing material from the mast base, the mast section is sized to prevent buckling failure and this results in a section with dramatically more material than necessary for a purely compressive load. The load at the step is almos
  15. New mast step is definitely a smart option - there are a number of reasons (about 5200 of them) why this will be my last choice after exhausting all other options.
  16. I did exactly this a few days ago to mount some backing plates. Then drilled the holes. It was so easy I can’t imagine why I hadn’t done it before. If a backing plate is your project as well, one shortcoming with this was that one plate ended up with a disappointing amount of contact with the not quite flat underside of the deck. I’ll probably knock it off and reattach it with a bunch of normal thickened epoxy next year. on edit, I see you are using both normal thickened epoxy and g5 in one spot to hold it. You are smarter than me, I think that’ll work grea
  17. I need to make a new deck-stepped aluminum mizzen mast fit into my undersized mast step. The 5.25 inch (longitudinally) mast section needs to fit in a hole that is only 5 inches. While I assumed the only answer would be a mast shoe, a rigger is suggesting i simply cut a vertical channel along each side of the mizzen mast, port and starboard, about 6 inches tall by about a half inch wide, at the bottom of the mast. With those two channels cut (channels cut with a rounded top to avoid a stress point) they suggest I simply squeeze the front and back of the mast together
  18. Well, I sure was happy with my Rocna compared to my CQR. Performs really well, unambiguously better than the CQR. But now my confidence is eroded a bit. I guess I can convince myself that in my safe little hidey hole anchorages, i'll typically be drifting slow enough for a good reset in the event of a wind shift.
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