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35 Kiss-ass

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    Kiel, Germany

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  1. First season with an asym and a code 0 from Onesails. Both with the structural furling system (no anti torsion rope). I love both. Furling on both sails is much smoother than with the other systems I have experience with on this or other boats (Selden/Harken top-down for asym, Harken bottom-up for a screacher). No fuckups yet - knock on wood. Downsides: Asym is a bit flatter than otherwise possible. Furled sails have to come down in 18+ knots. At least for me the furl is not as tight as on my cable-screacher. Paul
  2. With the stupid double whopper of Brexit and Covid we sailed past the British channel islands on our way to Brest yesterday. Didn't even bother to check the current rules. Normally we would have loved to visit, stay a few days, pay for stuff, ... Not this year. Paul
  3. Not much of a help for you guys, but in Germany there is one good mail order shop, that is so much better than the (local) competition. They tick nearly all the boxes. SVB has as great inventory, are very honest with their availability notices (in stock means sitting on a shelf in _their_ warehouse), have their logistics down to a point (when I order until 2pm it's delivered the next day), have phone support that is useful in most cases and will order/organize stuff they don't have in stock. Prices are competetive as well. Paul
  4. We ripped out an air-cooled diesel generator from the sail locker in our port bow. That thing was a real nuisance. Good thing, those 150kg are gone. Even better, we now have a lot of empty space. 220cm long, 100cm wide (at the rear) and about 160cm high (about 45cm under the floorboards, this was originally a berth). There is one big 60*60 hatch at the rear and a small leaking hatch in the front for access. We are a cruising boat, so we will not keep it empty. I am looking for clever ideas to organize this space for storage of... Spinnaker Code0 Storm jib Fe
  5. Try cyberyachts@yahoo.com.au. And better ask for a Mumby. :-) Paul
  6. Thanks, very good discussion. I also thought about not rigging all reefs all the time. Assuming that you have a standard reefing cringle in the sail, do you actually pull all the rope out, or do you have a clever way to quickly attach/remove the reefing line to the cringle on the leech? The reefing line could permanently be led though a low-friction ring that is connected to the cringle with a soft-shackle for example. I am also rebuilding the stack pack. It has battens to hold it open, but currently it is a super-tight fit. Maybe with 2 * 20cm more fabric it will catch the rope
  7. Hi, my new used boat came with a 94sqm square top main with four reefs. Currently I have all four reefs permanently rigged. Especially the fourth reef for stormy conditions has a lot of line going up to the cringle and down to the boom again. When I drop the main the lines make a mess more often than not, e.g. they hook around the davids or some equipment in the cockpit and I have to untangle them. How do you deal with these lines? Is there any magic bullet to sort them out? Paul
  8. If the sock got entangled with the screacher,.wouldn't you still be able do simply drop both the screacher and the sock? Paul
  9. Boat is ready and... "sailing". Paul
  10. Why conflate electronic charts with gps? Ok, gps can fall and be spoofed, but in that case the electronic map loses just one advantage over the paper map and is on par with paper. Paul
  11. I love the non-paper net abrasives from Mirka. Paul
  12. I had installed the Selden track on my previous boat (Farrier F32RX) with the sheet going to the bow and not up the mast. I think getting the bend right is very important for smooth operation. We used a slightly larger radius than the length to the bow, so that the car goes over easily, but not so large, that you pull the car to the middle when tightening the sheet. This worked perfectly. I honestly haven't anything to complain about. An absolute joy to sail with. Also solid, but then we only had a tiny jib and a large main. I had an inhauler - further up someone posted, that wouldn'
  13. I'll hopefully report in April or May. I am having both a 90sqm IFS Screacher/Code 0 and a 150sqm IFS Gennaker built for the next season. Bye, Paul.
  14. @El Boracho were you displeased with the Raymarine plotters or with the AP steering? I loved the Evo Tiller pilot on my trimaran. For our new boat (similar specs to the boat of the original poster, ie 48 foot, a bit less than 10t fully loaded) we went with a Jefa Sprocket Drive because the unit seemed very solid and was easy to integrate with the existing cable steering system. The power requirements meant, that the small/cheap ap control units from Raymarine or B&G would have been too weak, and I find the price jump from the ACU 200 to the bigger units pretty big. B&G was e
  15. I guess that a 60cm x 60cm hatch needs 2 per side? Then I need 24 of them. BTW, I also found your hatch installation instructions very useful http://www.ptwatercraft.com/SCAMP_hatch_Instructions.pdf Paul @Mark Morwood I thought again, and making the whole panel removable is unnecessary. I will glass the big panels in and just build a smaller 60x60 hatch in each. I know the latch you linked to was just supposed to be an example of the type of latch - but boy, at 64 USD each that would get expensive quickly. :-)
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