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About danstanford

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  • Birthday 03/12/1962

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  • Location
    Lake Ontario
  • Interests
    Golf, sailing, contemplating how to retire.

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  1. If you go on the J Boats website they have several photos of your boat flying a standard spin and you can see all the rigging set up. There should be a loop at the end of the sprit and on my boat you run a tackline through that loop and back to the starboard side cabintop where you can then draw the tack of the sail out with the tack line to the tip of the sprit. The biggest challenge we had as newbies to this setup was rigging the lines for the spinnaker relative to the rest of the boat and the jib. Spin sheets are outside everything and go under the jib sheets on the way to the hatch p
  2. I have learned that heel comes with wind velocity (power) and that making the draft shallower is the technique to deal with that. I guess this is the question as the inverse would be that a deeper sail would suit less wind velocity assuming you don't have so much draft that the wind is detaching at the leech.
  3. Twist is being managed pretty well for the main but perhaps less so for the jib but we use an upper leech telltale on the jib to insure there is good flow there. As the driver I think we are doing a decent job coming out of the tacks but better drivers might disagree for sure, I do understand the point for sure. The question is mostly related to the subtleties and the confusion that mostly comes from the dead feeling after a puff when you feel like you should be trimming somehow to return to that speed you had a minute ago but aren't sure if you should be yanking on the backstay and outh
  4. J/88. 30' racer with good sails and a 6'6" keel. Racing against well sailed boats both larger and smaller in the same relative PHRF ranges...84 for us.
  5. Relevant answers in red above. My question is specific to that circumstance where you are trying to decide if you need to trim for power or to lessen drag through generally flatter sails. I do understand that if I am punching through waves and stopping at each that I need power and if I am overpowered I need to start reducing drag. There is a lot of room in between those that I want some clues to use to help make decisions. In particular we now have some of the crew making good observations and suggestions and I don't want it to be just yes or no but rather using various tells to make ju
  6. Searching for answers which I think we all enjoy as we try to get better and would really enjoy if we could stop having our asses handed to us. After tactical review and sail handling we are looking to subtleties of sail trim. How do you judge the power/drag equation in these lighter winds? My instinct has been to go with a more draft generally as long as we still have good flow over the leech telltales and a nice fair shape with proper twist. In addition to going and trying different settings, how do you folks judge when to reduce power in favor of reducing drag assuming you are not at
  7. Not sure if this was clear but my interpretation of the forestay question was that you would tighten it through backstay adjustment rather than trying to close the turnbuckle further as it seems to be pretty far down as it is. In some cases, pointing can be negatively affected by the forestay being adjusted too far (as it sounds like it might be) which sets the rake of the mast to be less and moves the center of effort forward potentially hurting pointing.
  8. Just got mine and am very impressed with the unit and initial functions like updates, charging, and battery life. Soon will get it on the boat and will feed back what I learn. Looks like something from Apple rather than a small manufacturer.
  9. So you drop the main then flake it? I have to say that we are struggling to get a good fast flake unless we have more people to pull and coax the sail into flakes but we are babying the halyard down as we go. What is your process?
  10. I have done one more set of tuning and set the tip of the mast centered once more using the bucket of water and we have it somewhere less than half an inch. My Vakaros just arrived so I am going to get it mounted this week and see from GPS SOG how we stack up. Since last tuning we have raced twice and not noticed the difference in the speed but had a lot to think about as well with a short course and lots of boats around. Will keep this thread posted. Dan
  11. Just trying to make things faster for everyone since this is an extra job we just brought to our race night. The critical element for me is the fact that both ends need to be open or I will be adding this to the shackle and really adding length. I believe the 1" or so total to still allow adequate halyard tension but time will tell. Dan
  12. We have been using a dacron jib held on by horseshoe shackles and are now going to use a 3Di jib which we will have to put on and take off every time we go out. For this reason I want to convert the attachment points to some kind of snap shackle. What are people using that works well? We have a deck sweeping jib so I don't want to add a bunch of length at the tack but it will need to be open on both sides as I am dealing with closed loops and holes. Thanks, Dan
  13. Ad says moving up to a bigger J. J/112e perhaps?
  14. The golf handicap process is different than many think and perhaps is applicable if someone were to be prepared to do the work of entry. With golf, they use the best 10 of your last 20 scores to represent your potential. If you used a smaller total it might help bring handicap closer over time and would be more fair but I would think you would need to use time differences to have it really mean anything.
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