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Everything posted by MiddayGun

  1. Yeah the grid in my boat was built the old fashioned way, but I can't imagine coming away without significant damage if I ploughed into a rock at 7 knots, despite the lead keel.
  2. Its used anything right now. In the UK used cars are up, especially classics. My cousin was called by BMW offering to pay her £5k more for her car then she'd bought it for just 6 months ago (the only catch presumably being that everything to replace it is more expensive). Possibly more disposable income for people who haven't been out during Covid. A lot more people out on the water as well, we couldn't get into Southwold the other week when heading back North on a delivery, same for Wells. Full of oversized white motorboats. Again, think people have no choice but to spend their ti
  3. Its actually gelcoat and surprisingly very little filler. The workmanship itself looked to be pretty good with regards to the glass work & the the keel alignment, its just if the new laminate itself is up to the job, there's certainly a metric shitload of extra glass been added. According to the video the yard have done a lot of these repairs now (signs of the times I guess) and whenever they've grounded again hard they usually break in a different spot. I guess Swedish groundings are a pretty extreme since its all just rocks around there.
  4. Well I finished it. (top tip, set the playback speed to 1.25 or 1.5 and pause at the more interesting bits) I'm not sold on the whole polyester thing, but it does seem that the yard does a hell of a lot of these, and judging from the amount of laminate added it looks like they went for the belts & braces approach. I'm guessing the uni across the top must be fairly common? I got the lay up scedule for my boat from the designer and the tops of the floors have 4 layers of 600gsm UR before the last finish layer of CSM. One thing I saw he did was using a polyester bon
  5. Typical British understatement from me. Interesting that the yard chose to go with polyester for this repair, presumably partly from a cost side, and they laid the glass over a polyester adhesive, presumably for better mechanical bonding. Interested to see if the glass guys on here have a take on that. Also I wasn't aware before this video, just how poorly those liners are bonded in situ.
  6. So we've all seen videos of inexperienced couples trying to repair the structural floor pans that are all the rage in cheaper production builders today. Well I actually just stumbled across this video of a professional repair being done at a yard in Stockholm. I've not finished it yet so don't know how good the finished product will be, but thought it might interest a few a people to see one of these done as a 'pro' job. (it looks expensive) Looks like its been heavily grounded as the keel can literally be pushed up into the hull at the aft end.
  7. Yeah the way they're described you'd sometimes come away thinking they're a lower friction solution then blocks. They have their uses, like Zonker said, low deflection, lightweight and stuff that doesn't move too much. Think like backstay cascades, barber haulers for spinny sheets etc. For a mainsheet, highly loaded, 180 degrees of deflection multiples times, you'll be much better off with high load ball bearing blocks.
  8. Some of you guys seem to be taking this shit really personally. Relax, summers here, get outside, go sailing, the weathers nice. ffs.
  9. Most likely that has a toggle on the bottom for articulation. Its not required at the top. I do prefer the open barrel style, you can see where the thread is at much easier, can't tell with those ones, but a lot of the cheaper ones are all stainless as well & have a tendency to gall.
  10. Every time people post pics of their lovely brightwork / cabinetry I just feel inadequate! Got some good ideas to be getting on with. Actually I had a great day on the water today, & with summer here I'm very tempted to put this off (again) until Autumn.
  11. Cheers Zitski. I use those oval tubes in a different locker to hang my life jackets & harness tethers, didn't think about veneering them, did you do that whole build or just the book restraints? Any tips on veneering, do I have to vacuum bag? Epoxy / some other glue? @ Zach, thanks for typing all that out. I think I need to re-read it a couple of times before I understand it all! Agreed with the squeaking & shelf glassed in.
  12. Hmm sounds like a shout, cheers Zonker, bonus points because its way easier to use than epoxy. Jon, cleats screwed to bulkhead already planned, but they only support the ends, I was thinking of the flex in the top and bottom in the middle as its roughly just over 1m long.
  13. Hmm, never thought of using something like a Sika adhesive, instead of epoxy. How well does it do on the end grain of plywood? Or would it be advisable to use some extra cleats for more surface area? Although I suppose I could dowel it as well.
  14. A part of my outboard chain-plate project was that I had to rip out a lot of the existing cabin interior on my MGC. While I've rebuilt the saloon backs & shelf a long while ago, I need to build some storage lockers under the deckhead. I've been scratching my head about the best way to go about it, requirements are: No / minimum of visible fasteners Front panel needs to be removable for access, so no plugging holes if it can be avoided. Needs to be fairly strong Here's the area in question. The shelf & main bulkhead has been painted since & holes fill
  15. I've heard that on IRC at least the First 285 is very hard to sail to its rating. Pure word of mouth. Interior fit out is nice on the one I've seen though.
  16. I don't think a backing plate would do that much to share sheer loads, I see where you're coming from, but its been designed this way, so it should be up the job. As well as the existing hull laminate (which isn't cored) its got another 7 layers of 600gsm biaxial tapering out to 500x500mm, + the plywood web. I think the mast is coming down long before this causes any hull issues.
  17. Actually I'd originally planned a carbon chain plate when I was simply going to make the existing arrangement stronger & Zonker was kind enough to do me some nice drawings and the appropriate calculations. But in the end I was fighting geometry, 10 degrees spreader sweep on a deck fractional isn't much, I've since spoke to a sailmaker who owns one and he told me that dropping the rig on them isn't hugely uncommon. However with the move to full width a carbon chain plate would have to come up through the toe rail, which seems like hard work to seal, or I would have to cut out the toe
  18. I mean its not necessary full stop day sailing or not. Done plenty of miles solo not just in some busy areas. But it is nice to have. Its 60 feet thing I don't get, as a solo sailor what advantage are you really getting over something in the mid-40s? I saw the video of Pete Goss giving a tour of his Garcia 45, that looked an ideal boat for this kind of thing.
  19. The guy who designs yachts for a living said it wasn't required so who am I to argue? As stated its sheer loaded with no chance of an unfair load from the rigging so a backplate isn't going to do much. The mast will be gone before those things shift.
  20. There's no shame in asking for help with tying up the lines, but I wouldn't want to singlehand any boat that I wasn't confident that I could do it solo if required. Being in my early thirties puts me at probably the lower end of people on SA and probably half the age of anyone who could afford a boat like that and I'd not fancy regularly trying to get that thing on & off the dock single handed. Sure its possible, but not ideal. For racing solo I think 30-35 foot is the sweet spot for me, if I was going off cruising solo then probably something slightly bigger. I mean it a
  21. I did it over a winter on my MGC 27 as my boat was on its 3rd rig & in bouncy weather it looked like the 4th wasn't too far away. I got John Corby to do the sums & design work & I carried out the work to his schedule. Depending on your cabin layout you may need to rip out & rebuild some cabinetry. The job itself isn't too hard. If Corby has already done a Mumm rig you may even get it at a lower rate. Went full width on the shrouds, very happy with it, like a new boat, I've got this amazing thing called forestay tension now! Here's some pics of the proc
  22. Butyl tape is fine. So is 316.
  23. I mean just do it when the mast is down before the new season. Even if you don't have it down every year it should still last long enough.
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