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About JoeBleaux

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  1. Yep, Antrim 27 gets my vote. Might be closer to the 30K range though.
  2. High feed pressure/ low speed/ cutting oil/ sharp drill bits/ spend as much as you can afford on the bits.
  3. FWIW, the new PHRF ratings that the GYA will be using are generated by ORReZ's VPP, and will have 2 wind ranges and 2 courses to choose from. As I understand it, the results will be very similar if not the same as ORReZ, they just using a whole "phrf" number as the coefficient instead the decimal coefficient ORReZ uses. That and it will be TOD instead of TOT so it should be easier for racers to figure out how they finished.
  4. I've been happy with the mustang gear that I've purchased (Meris jacket and a couple inflatable PFDs). Seems well made and customer service seems good. I've had bad luck with most Zhik products, customer service is horrible, with the exception of their PFDs... I like them for dingy racing.
  5. Any word on the next book? Love your hatches, always found them very functional and easy to use.
  6. I built and ice chest out of xps foam and plywood with a fiberglass layer on the exposed surfaces to water proof. Kind of stitch and glue plywood box within another box and foam in-between. It works great, pretty good insulation too. I used white pigmented epoxy(west systems white pigment) to coat the inside. 2 years old now and has held up great. I like your G-10 idea.
  7. Very loose lower on Prada. Havent noticed that before. Looks terrible for Aero.
  8. SS bushings in an Al sheave doesn't seem like a good idea. I might try calling the mast manufacturer, or Zephyr werks and talk to them about what's going on.
  9. Definitely not an expert here, but a quick glance at a Galvanic chart show Al and Bronze to be closer together than Al and 304 or 316 series SS. I replaced aluminum sheaves with Bronze bushings on my 1/4 tonner last year because they were to thin after switching to stripped halyards. Other than being too thin they were fine, and probably 30 + years old. See my super technical drawing below.
  10. Is aluminum and bronze really a Galvanic corrosion issue? Al and SS for sure, I didn't realize Al and Bronze was that big of a deal.
  11. I did wet 220 and then 400. The clear was practically gone, so I was careful not to sand to much and remove carbon. I did not prime, went straight on with the paint after a good wipe down and tack. 2 coats of paint, wet on wet. I was painting a lot more often back then so I was comfortable laying on 2 thicker coats. Not saying 545 is a bad idea, I just didn't do it. I suppose weight is a consideration.
  12. I re-coated a viper mast a 4 years ago. Wet sanding with 220 was plenty course and pretty quick, though the clear was in such bad shape there wasn't much left. I would recommend painting over clear coating though. The clear just doesn't hold up in the UV. I sprayed that viper mast with awlgrip and it still looks great today. I used black so scratches wouldn't show as bad, but it is a little hot when stepping on hot days ( I cleared black paint with the manufacturer). White seems a good choice, cooler but scratches will show.
  13. Haha, Jzerro is an amazing design... but there's nothing dry about it at speed, on deck at least.
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