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occams_razor

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About occams_razor

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    Portsmouth, RI

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  1. To be fair that’s only true if your time has no value to you. The declared Hull Value should be what you value the boat at. If you have to repair or rebuild your cost is more than materials.
  2. I dunno, looks normal to me for Australia
  3. Ugh, I don’t like this. Sounds like the market is continuing to get worse. +1 on everything @Zonker said. I’d add a couple things: Many brokers do call the same insurers but not all. When we were having so much trouble last fall I needed 3 different brokers to get quotes from all the insurers on my list. Know who you want quotes from and check with the broker to make sure they quote. If there are duplicates I try to let the broker know, but it doesn’t seem to be a big deal if not - the insurer will already know they’ve quoted and usually just decline that broker. Really, really
  4. That's pretty much where I'm landing. The only consideration for the clear at the moment is if we were able to tip and roll it outside. If we have to get the boat inside and spray it, I don't see why we wouldn't just do a full repaint.
  5. Well, good news: the boat IS (very) yellow, so maybe more than a few years? Was looking at the clear coats, I'm only seeing a clear in Awlcraft2000 from Awlgrip - can that go over Awlgrip? Sand with 320 with guide coat and apply? Seeing folks reporting applying tip and roll or spray, odds of success applying outside?
  6. After a bit of research today seem to have confirmed that Awlgrip can't be compounded (or even polished, not even supposed to apply normal wax). The finish had already been compounded twice previously, so I guess that horse had already left the stable. Any thoughts or suggestions on where to go from here? Not sure how quickly it will return to it's former chalky state.
  7. Hi folks. Have a 8-ish year old Awlgrip finish, pretty heavily oxidized/chalky in some areas. Looking for recommendations on compounding, polishing, waxing scheme and products. Did an initial pass with a 3M medium cutting compound (says for P1200 scratches and above) with a wool pad on a rotary buffer. Shine comes right back, but noticed that I wasn't cutting through all the oxidation - there were "white-ish" patches (boat is yellow), and areas that I hit a bit harder were deeper color (see photos below, forward sections deeper color where I hit twice are better but still need mor
  8. Many, many thanks all, going to go with Alexseal. Very appreciative of all the help and input.
  9. That reminds me, what is recommended PPE for brush application of Alexseal? I see supplied air for spraying, wondering about outdoor tip and roll.
  10. Thanks @Foreverslow. Are you doing this in Deltaville (had our last boat in Deltaville for many years)? How quickly is the Alexseal drying for you (i.e. how many of Virgina's bugs are leaving crawl marks on your paint job)?
  11. Thanks @Zonker, very very helpful.
  12. Thanks Jody! Do you recall which paint you used? You just sourced from a car paint supplier? That Blenz-in is an amazing recc, thank you! If you find yourself in the RI area any time this season ping me please, I'm sure Occam's would love to see you again.
  13. I thought so too but am seeing conflicting info. Looks like regardless the Alexseal CAN be sanded and compounded, no?
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