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Hunky

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About Hunky

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  1. Hope I'm not violating nature by responding to an old thread. Apologies if so. I'm getting close to launch of my 30' KHSD cat and have an undersized used mast at the moment, yet to be installed. I've been advised I could add a small bowsprit with a wire for hanking on a genoa or other sails, in addition to the furler jib on the forestay off the cross beam for light air. Unfortunately I don't have much access inside the bow area. One side I could reach through the deck 8" access hole and use long sticks to reach near the waterline, which wouldn't be easy, but the other side has a repa
  2. Thanks SMJ, I just saw that as well. Hmm.. still a bit undersized but maybe better than what I have.
  3. I'll assume you are asking Zonker, as I have no idea. Unless you would like a measurement.. I'll have to figure out what a panel is on a mast.
  4. thanks kruiter, you sort of nailed it I think as far as what I might be up to for the first bit with this new boat. I'll research adding second set of spreaders, but the existing ones are welded on and probably screw up proportions for adding a second set. I don't know. I'll have to take a look to see if there is any compression tube between existing spreaders. And they are not swept back by very much. I did get a response from Kurt Hughes and he basically said to use what I have and get sailing. Suggested maybe a non-overlap headsail with maybe a genoa on a luff wire (which I think means addi
  5. Thanks for the comments! I appreciate it and will figure out my next steps.
  6. Way back in the 1900's when I started this 30' (9m) cat build, and before I knew really much about anything, I purchased a used mast (came off a monohull) that was "about" the right length for the Kurt specified mast. Since, he has updated his drawings and the mast now is over a foot shorter. It has other shortcomings as well - only one set of spreaders, the width moment specified is 6 in4. and mine is 5 in4. The long dimension moment is ok. The mast head has smaller sheaves than spec'd. The head is also welded on, and if cut off the mast would be even shorter. Specified at 37' 7" (11.5m), min
  7. Yikes! Good you all were ok. Anyone ever rehab the hull or did it end up scrapped? I was hiking on a mountain top and clouds came in - way back in the day when backpacks had metal strap buckles and things. Our hair on our heads and arms started standing up, and I was getting shocks from the metal buckles. We beat feet pretty quick off the mountain. Another time as a child we were in the front yard in a rural area watching a lightning storm sitting on inner tubes (to keep us from being grounded - yeah right!). A real bright flash and immediate thunder - it ended burning off the hair on a f
  8. I don't want to unnecessarily complicate things. I was thinking of the bonding ground as "earth", I suppose. Very happy to know this is not required. I'll assume the ship's DC system ground is just a return to the battery negative. Unless persuaded otherwise, I'll not do a copper plate on the hull, but use your method instead - perhaps keeping it neatly coiled and lashed to the tramp as I don't have any lockers up front. I don't really need to worry too much about lightning up here - it is pretty rare and mostly occurs inland when it does happen, starting fires on the tundra. Scares the b
  9. Thanks for that Zonker. I had planned on maybe just clamping chain or something to a shroud and tossing the other end in the water, but now I may go synthetic rigging so that wouldn't work. Your method sounds similar and I may try that rather than routing more copper wire through the deck. From what I've read - it seems if I understand it - you should have an "earth" connection, perhaps separate from the battery negative.. such as what someone might ordinarily hook to a saildrive or something permanently in the water. To ground metal cases, panels, etc. Only option for me if that is the c
  10. I have a 30' cat with outboards, so wondering if/how to ground for lightning. Been reading a few links and some suggest a copper rod on top of mast and the aluminum mast grounded to a copper plate outside the hull. I understand this may or may not work. But also some of my electrical panels have the yellow wire for battery negative, but also the yellow/green wire for "earth" which I assume I would hook to that copper plate outside as well. No thru-hulls as of yet. A builder of a same-design cat used copper plates like this. I think he did on both hulls - the image with the red arrow point
  11. Thanks for the suggestion! I wasn't aware of that product - looks interesting.
  12. Thanks for the great positive reply. I'm wondering what a CLA is that you plug your anchor light into. Also, curious if you have a lead acid battery for start? Outboard? I'm curious about that - was thinking of going LiFePo for house, and if I go a smallish LA battery for start (2 - 18hp 2 stroke outboards the put out max 6.6 amps), I'm trying to figure out if I can use the outboards for any charging on lithiums.. maybe with a DC-DC charger or if I just don't use the outboards on the lithiums. Jim
  13. Up until the 300' barge used the boat as a dock fender, two of us had about 10 months into the build, including shop additions and shelter constructing. It wasn't at all finished at that point - just enough to get us into commercial crabbing. Plan was to haul out after the season and finish it, before the accident. Repair and finishing has been over 6 years so far working by myself, but that is not that many hours per day and lots of interruptions of honey-do lists trying to maintain a very old house and other things of life. Haven't kept track of time.. and winters here are tough to work as
  14. Hey Beezer - this is a bridgedeck cat so the main structure between hulls was basically like bulkheads. The aft cross beam is a box beam - very easy. The fore bulkhead between hulls had what Kurt calls a fairing - a curved structure facing foreward that was a bit difficult the way it was drawn and I built - had to laminate the thin plywood on a compound curve, somewhat. But doable. Another guy built the same and he just used composite construction - not so curved- and worked out great for him. All the photos are on the flickr link above the first photo in my post above. Should help expla
  15. I did a 30' catamaran using cylinder molding - if anyone wants more pics throughout the whole process. If I were young I would snap this project up. Pics are here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jdory/albums/72157625973914417
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