Jump to content

SASSAFRASS

Members
  • Content Count

    2,898
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

717 F'n Saint

About SASSAFRASS

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist

Profile Information

  • Location
    PNW, back to the real world till next time

Recent Profile Visitors

4,576 profile views
  1. I think I fall into his woodbutcher catagory in the buyer conditions... Still on the list someday, hard sell for the kit bit there is alot there.
  2. It's comes in white and as above lasts along time without discoloration. I used white TDS in the seam between our cabin house and the deck. Have not redone in a whole lotta years still looks fine. Some runabouts use white too on the fore deck.
  3. Furlex furlers have a continuous sleeve so if anything got in it or there is a strand loose as above it no go. I think they use sealed roller bearings too but don't quote me on that. The halyard restrainer is important to eliminate wrap, they have a min angle in the instructions. Would try the tips above take the sail off and see how it works. Any bumps on swivel or drum are a indicator of bad bearings.
  4. Sika used in conjunction with the sika primer and proper prep is a very effective long term goop. TDS white is also very resilient, more flexible and holds it's color better than most.
  5. If you are going for a asthetic cleanup and want to level the seam you can use a random orbital, six inch and nothing under 80grit. 80 and 120 or 220 will leave a nice finish. The raised rubber helps the footing so I would leave alone. It can have some thermal so I would look in hot and cold to see where it is before touching.
  6. A competent shop can do a mock up of engine feet at foundations and coupler position on transmission going off of prints. Once the old engine is out this goes in to verify the scope of work needed if any. Comparing prints from old to new and expecting it all to work out on a boat is not a sure thing ever.
  7. It's 99% that it started out it's life 3/8" or 10mm thick, if newer then it will probably have a square rabbit on one side that is under the black deck seam. TDS adheres really well to itself so you could use a razor nice to remove a small portion of caulk in the area in question and tape and re caulk. You can do the needle check on a seam but make sure you check both sides as you might run into babbitt, also if glued down there is a good chance the glue is up into the joint between strips at least to the rabbit so you will get a false gauging. I would just razor knife out a little spot car
  8. See Vulcan in there, wondering what negative feedback there is? Can only comment on the one we have, it's pretry huge so I would not group with any other sizes and the performance. Both our Vulcan and the smaller rocna we have show a weak point in that if the blade tip fouls, clay shells mud clump or anything like pants line garbage etc, they won't set at all. The garbage is probably the same with almost any design but the sticky crap seems to be mostly these two. Have only had issues on a initial set, having to haul and clean. So far no issues with it resetting in a big wind or tidal shi
  9. Shop around, is the boat on a trailer, can it go to a shop etc. All will drop the price alot. Not having a timeline will also drop cost alot. I would be looking for a flat estimate and compare different quotes, then do on T&M with the one I liked best
  10. Go to any hydraulics place around you. You can get a rated hose that will work. Usually for suction they are pretty flexible, regular barbed fittings and AWAB clamps are fine, if you want to eliminate you can have proper crimp fittings put on and go to JIC etc, in the US this is common, in Europe they like straight pipe. You can also just run copper tubing with bite or flare connection and it will last forever, just get the flexible reefer tube with the thicker wall. I like the copper with flared connection as it's easy to work with and remove install.
  11. You can certainly get a decent idea of who has sailed on ships and who hasn't.
  12. You need a well and a checked pump for the centrifugal setup. The whale low suction or similar diaphragm do pretty good without, they are all checked as well. The setup in op will certainly work. Dehumidifiers are just moving the work and water, it still needs to go somewhere. If doing the small pump I would probably steer clear of the auto cycle and use a float or sensor and delayed run cycle logic IE drying pump is starting via float or solid state sensor and running for x time after sensor is cleared. It's all personal preference, a dry bilge is great no matter what, lots of ways to get t
  13. Wondering what the loading difference is on each end of all chain rode. All the snubber attachment discussion had me thinking about the other end. We have all chain with a pretty big Vulcan anchor. I use a two bow shackle attachment to the hook. A 7/16 Crosby shackle is the biggest we can use in the chain end, have always considered it the weak link. I'm guessing it will never see the same loading profile as a snubber attachment point on the other end, but would be curious if Steve or anyone has ever done a load cell comparison.
  14. I think the rabbit might be getting a little pissed and wants everyone out of the hole.. But... To continue splitting hairs, one down side to the soft shackle would be the wierd fiber loading and chaffe on the up chain link. This is assuming it goes in with the chain loaded. Seems like using something small enough to clear the upper link would be on the small size. They are cheep enough to be a consumable so probably not a big deal. Just wonder how they hold up for chaffe. One more thing to think about when you are sitting out a blow. It is interesting that this is one point I have n
  15. The only time we have ever had a hook come off was in the aquatic center in SF. Tide against wind was nuts rode straight to the stern. We were still rigging to both hause holes then too. Now just off bow roller mid bow sprit. Usually have several feet of chain slack as well so the hook is weighted on both sides. Powering down hard on the hook with the brake off usually pulls the right amount of chain out so when the wind comes way up the subber is still carrying all the load. No thimble just spliced to hook so it all rides out and in easy. I like the foot switch as I can tend snubber com
×
×
  • Create New...