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Everything posted by Piginwater

  1. Thanks a lot for that hard data Snubs. I'd read some rumors about it not putting out much juice, but never seen any actual tested figures. I don't think I'll even bother wiring up the alternator if it doesn't even put out an amp. I'll just rely on solar.
  2. I'm thinking this. Although I haven't done any research on it yet. https://www.amazon.com/Weize-Battery-System-Camping-Trolling/dp/B07SW353M8 I had thought my Tohatsu alternator was regulated, but after your comment I looked, and apparently it's not. It only puts out 5 amps anyway, and in order to do that I'd have to be running at full throttle, which I never do. I'm normally running it at about 3000 RPM. As to keeping it on a 110V trickle charger, shouldn't the solar charger be able to keep up with charging since I won't be using it in the winter months? I am in the Portla
  3. Thanks for the info on the LEDs in nav lights. I didn't know that. For my fishfinder I'm thinking of the Garmin Striker 4. $100ish, draws .23 amps. https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Striker-Transducer-Fishfinder-Traditional/dp/B017NI17HQ I PMed Roleur, thanks for the info. After figuring out all my draw, I'm at 23 amps every 24 hours. I think a 100AH group 27 should be fine. If I'm understanding that right, it would give me 72 days (Edit. Hours. Hours. Not days. That's quite the battery if it's 72 days.) of use with no charger at all, and still have 25%. I'm thinking t
  4. Merit 22. PNW, so not always a ton of sun. I pull the boat out of the water from about October to April. Currently there's no electronics of any kind. I want to do some overnighting and need to have at least navigation and anchor lights. No battery yet, going to install a simple electrical panel and LED interior, cockpit, and navigation lights. There are some navigation light fixtures, but I'm not sure if all of them work. I need to redo the wiring. I also want a simple fishfinder or similar that gives me depth, temp, and gps speed would be nice. Draw will be: 2 interior LE
  5. I've been there too. I was trying the gybe method of grabbing the whole of the mainsheet and pulling the main over by hand. Several times as the boom came across and the sheet went taut I ended up half strangled. The way it's setup now, the main basically runs at an angle from above and in front of my head to about shoulder height behind me. Perfect angle to make my throat uncomfortable. Since then I've realized how much more I like just sheeting the main in tight before I gybe, then easing it on to the other side. I think I'm going either with mid cockpit just forward of the lo
  6. I'm also going to add a boom vang, and I'm wondering about adding a running backstay even though it's a masthead.
  7. That's what I'm thinking of doing right there. But I'm not exciting about tripping over the traveler either. Jim is right, everything is a trade off. That's actually a very simple and good idea. I didn't even think about putting turning blocks and rerouting the controls forward. Unfortunately I can't find rollers to replace the ones on the existing car. But I might just buy a new one from RigRite. It looks like it will be about $160 I went out and did some measuring. The boom is 115" long. The car on the stern rail is 140". So it's really far from a 9
  8. So it would still be mounted at the stern rail though right? That would fix the problem of not having a working traveler, but it would still give me an off 90 degree mainsheet, and it would put the traveler behind me. However, am I wrong to be worried about those things? I suppose I could get used to the traveler behind me if it at least worked. I found that rigrite has round bar traveler cars, which is probably the cheapest fix. https://www.rigrite.com/Travellers/NF_Travellers/Round Bar Travellers.php I can't find them anywhere else. Catalina makes one for their boats, bu
  9. Alright, maybe I should be rethinking this. Let's see. The why, is because the rollers on the current "car" are buggered and broken off. There's no bearing surface at all. So I don't really use the traveler at all, since it is so hard to move. I also don't have any leverage, since it's a 1:1 on the traveler system. I know I could add a few different block setups and fix that. I also don't have a directly 90 degree pull from the boom to the traveler, since it goes back from the end of the boom about 14" to the traveler. I have to turn around to adjust the traveler. This mean
  10. Merit 22. A while back someone on here told me that I should relocate the mainsheet traveler off the stern rail to just aft of the cockpit lockers. I'm doing my spring modifications to the boat, and wanted to get started relocating the traveler. The problem is that it has tiller steering, and the tiller goes over the transom to the rudder. How does this work? If i relocate the traveler to the cockpit seats, the tiller is going to go over the top of the traveler and get tangled up in the mainsheet. Or should I just ignore that idea and go to a midboom traveler? Move it just
  11. From a layman's perspective, I had been considering joining our local club. Local club is $400 a year, $150 application fee. Slip fee is $1 a foot a month, so for me that's a whopping $22 a month. Membership requires two 4 hour work Saturdays a month. It's a 45 minute drive each way, so that's 11 hours a month. I don't believe they offer races, it's a power/sail club, with a clubhouse and nothing else for amenities. They haven't updated their calendar or website in 4 years, and don't really return phone calls. Even if a person only made minimum wage of $10 an hour, the
  12. I think I tried to buy boat number 27. Was it in the Seattle area? It was on craigslist and I missed it by a few days.
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