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Breamerly

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Everything posted by Breamerly

  1. Great info. Thank you. In re: stiffness, My understanding is the term refers broadly to a boat's baked-in ability to resist overpowering in higher wind. So, most primarily determined by built-in characteristics like ballast, hull shape, keel/rudder profile etc - but also determined by the standing rigging configuration, of which boom height is a part. I think we would say that, all other things equal, a boat with a shorter mast and smaller-area sailplan, was stiffer than the same boat with a taller mast, yeah? Likewise, all other things equal, a fractional rig (CE moves downward) wou
  2. I don't see any skullduggery here beyond the ordinary culture of idiotic grifting but has come to define modern America. These guys clearly had some sort of low-grade scam they were trying to legitimize through charity - 'Cancer ride Instagram boat lets us have yacht for free' or thereabouts. Combine that with it-can't-happen-to-me/rescue-is-always-available exceptionalism, and it's not hard to see how you would get some doofus joyriding while the drone does circles overhead and thinking he's covered on a liability-only policy. Through one of the more notoriously rocky, gnarly harbor
  3. if they're broken off flush/below surface, I'm +1 for just filling the holes (marine tex/bondo/boat-life/5200/whatever) and remounting and inch offset. Hardware shoould even cover the old holes.
  4. Porting a question over here from a thread in fix-it anarchy, where it was kind of off-topic. Any idea roughly how much stiffer (if at all) it would make a sloop to move the mainsail down 1 foot? (on a 27' boat with roughly a 33' mast (stepped about 5 feet off the water). My rough calculation was that, assuming the sail's center of resistance started out about 20 feet above the water, and the keel's center of mass about 4' below it, moving the center of the sail's mass 1 foot downward would mean about 5-10% percent more force on the lever would be required to achieve the same heel.
  5. If the center of lateral effort is halfway up the mast - or about 21 feet above the waterline (pivot point) - moving it down three feet would mean it would take... ~15% more force to induce the same amount of heel? But drag increases with the square of speed so.... to induce 15% more heeling force you'd need, very roughly, 8% higher windspeed. Or, instead of laying down at 25, she'd lay down at 27?
  6. Right. I hope it didn't sound like I meant this as an alternative to reefing. What I meant was, as an additional arrow in the heavy-weather quiver, so to speak. Any idea how much of a difference it would make?
  7. I mean, most people who imagine themselves 'off-roading on the way to camps/hikes' are talking about handling a bad washout/stream crossing at most. It's an entirely different scenario than rock-crawling, which really requires a custom vehicle, and usually one that's basically a death trap at much above 35. (Which is why actual off-road people tend to pull their trail rigs to the trailhead). And yeah, even new subarus are pretty gutless right off the lot, compared to Detroit iron.
  8. Sounds like what you need is, in this order: Ride comfort/safety Ground clearance Drivetrain Despite your post title, what you described is dirt-roading, not off-roading. For that, you frankly don't need the compromises in comfort, safety, and fuel economy that come with a true offroad vehicle. All the fun jagging off about FJ's and Samurais aside, all you need is decent ground clearance and a drivetrain that effectively manages slip (and ideally a wheelbase shorter than a full size truck - clearance is actually a factor of height รท wheelbase)**. A modern 4runner
  9. Looks like someone hit a rock up by Stuart on the maiden voyage. They euphemistically refer to it as grounding but.... They're now trying to raise 1.5 milli to keep her from turning into a reef, which... Yeah. Anyone recognize the location? https://norwesterfoundation.org/?fbclid=IwAR1LBrAVAYcZyEeJlNdhF4zF23piIwANRiedZqxkkBqZj2LaWnzDMefwsRA
  10. (Yes, you're not dreaming - I'm posting more now that repairing sailing season has started). So, context: The gooseneck car slides on t-track on my 27' fin-keeled sloop. The main used to slide on the same track, but PO installed PVC track over it, so now the car is effectively 'captured' below that, resting on the track stop. Thanks to a prior shoddy repair (not by me) the gooseneck detached while on a trip last year, with two track fasteners pulling out. At the time I just went to the nearest little hardware store and got stuff to tap a couple of new holes. Now I'm shoring up that r
  11. I recommend against varnish.
  12. Took some photos. Shows the degree of play/wiggle and also how rounded out the hole is. (Pay no attention to the sad dhink in the background it's not mine) For a refresh, I had been thinking about either 1) drilling the rivets and seeing if I couldn't remove it/tighten/refasten 2) cutting an inspection hole, on the assumption that there was prrrrobably a nut on the back of the actual 'neck' that I could access and tighten. Looking at it more closely, though, I see that it looks like it was an aftermarket job to begin with, judging by the wonky spacing of the existing rivets. Giv
  13. Yeah I have a pair of lewmar two-speed ST's that are ~10 years old and doing awesome, absolutely one of the nicest peices of gear on the boat
  14. Late reply to this. Got about 12 years on ours and starting to see some of the UV damage mentioned, but only in spots. Great to get the heads up on this now - will definitely be programming in replacement win the next couple years!
  15. Now that's what I call a hammer state of mind!
  16. Thanks haha. As with most of us it's not the $$ to repair that's holding me up, it's time to effectuate that repair. Hence asking around a little to get a few opinions as long as I'm away from the boat, anyway.
  17. And yeah Yeah I think the boom is raw alloy (same as the mast). pretty typical for older small production boats I think?
  18. Yeah, it looks to me like this is the case, although not too badly worked. Be pretty sweet is we were just able to tighten up the existing assembly. And yeah, will definitely add photos next time I'm over there. I think disassembly is in order. My machinist friend suggested an alternative would be to cut an inspection/adjustment port in the wall. You see this fabbed in place on some newer/better booms. That's a thought, too.
  19. In this case it's pulling the parts that's the trick. Since it's permanently assembled I'm assuming it would be drilling out the rivets, then a cold chisel and mallet to knock it out. I do think this is what I'll end up doing. Then some slightly fancier version of what what you're describing - maybe tack-weeks some shims to get the pin to fit the hole. Or just fab a new one - that's a possibility, too.
  20. Yeah it appears to be a cast aluminum cap that fits inside, and is riveted through the wall of, the boom. I actually have access to a full machine shop (CNC mills and lathes, press, metal bamdsaw etc), but I'm so slow with the tools/need so much guidance from my friends who owns the shop that I try to avoid fabricating things if I can avoid it.
  21. The assembly isn't completely original. The GN attaches to a Harken (I believe) slider mounted to retrofitted T-track. So it's just the gooseneck part of the assembly I'm focused on. Hence my thought to potentially pull/rebuild, since the cap is already formed to the boom, and assuming no compromising corrosion I'd just need to deal with the gooseneck tightness/mount issue, then refasten.
  22. This. I don't know how big your boat is, but if the bottom is clean, scuffing is maybe a couple of hours of work, including prep time? Your other solutions would be $$ in equipment + an hour of fiddling around to get it working right (+ masking, if you're going to blast???)
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