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About InfiniteElement

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  1. Once you fix it, assuming it was bad gas, upgrade your filter game. On my 3.5 with integral tank I added an inline chainsaw/mower filter and now use a filter funnel. There was no filter before. On my 9.8 with remote tank I added a real water separating filter.
  2. I’d remove them. I personally don’t buy the 12:1 or whatever taper when filling a thru hull. It is not a structural repair. A structural repair is for when the front falls off. If structural stresses in that area were a concern you wouldn’t have drilled a 1.5 inch hole in the boat there. Put a few layers of biax on the inside and taper the outside at whatever you see fit, lay in a bunch of circles, fair, and go sail. edit: another thought, the next owner probably doesn’t want to see a ghetto solution either, and if they want to put a flush toilet back in it would be easier for them i
  3. Looks like poor adhesion between layers/different types of paint. It’s a small boat with a small problem, with no blisters, which sits dry for half the year. Wouldn’t recommend taking the whole hull down to gelcoat with a $2500(?) gelplane unless that is your goal - that is overkill. I say hit the area with a sander, prep and repaint according mfg instructions and according to what you find when you sand. Vc is thin stuff.
  4. I had a keel stepped mast and it drove me nuts, so I looked around for a solution, but ended up selling the boat. Most promising solution I found involved a lot of work with the mast down... basically shove in a foam plug to above the level of the deck from below, stand mast up, pour in a sealing material from above until it runs out your pre-drilled mast drain hole or your lowest halyard exit hole. Extra figuring required for your wiring— either go around outside or run a conduit thru the plug before you pour.
  5. Missed that you are pre-cutting. Disregard my non-relevant advice.
  6. I can report angle grinder makes an unholy mess and the red hot stubs that fall on your scalp are quite warm. Oscillating tool works and is cleanER but takes much longer if you’re doing many. If they are not coming out any time soon perhaps big bolt cutters would work and be way faster?
  7. For my icw purposes my 12 ft aluminum vee hull (vee terminology is a bit loose... the vee bow tapers to a basically flat transom) with a 9.9 is ideal. For a 15hp you’d need a 14 footer. Cheap, light, quick, and zero maintenance. However a Carolina skiff would be more stable and easier to move around in.
  8. I’d prioritize the sail and do a diy rudder repair or even diy rudder replacement. $900 seems more than I’d spend for a rudder on an older 14 ft day sailer.
  9. Yes. Merc or Tohatsu 2.5 and 3.5 are essentially the same motor. 4 through 6 are essentially the same motor. Just look at the displacement and weight specs. You may be able to make your 4 into a 6 with a carb or something, but I doubt you are making your 3.5 into a 5. just to follow up on what I mentioned earlier, I have a Merc 3.5 (2008) 4 stroke and saved 60 bucks using the Tohatsu internal fuel tank rather than a Merc part, not to mention gaskets and other stuff was about half price. Parts fiche on boats dot net shows the same diagrams Merc vs Tot, but part numbers are different.
  10. I’ve sworn off trying to thicken the epoxy when I do this. Always comes out a disaster with air bubbles etc. Perhaps I hog out too much core or something.
  11. Excellent thread timing. I have a 2008 4 stroke 3.5 Merc that I am reviving. Main problem currently is the gas tank cracked around the filler, so when I tipped it up to sail all the gas drained out. Tohatsu part was Half the price of mercury, hope it works out when it gets here on Friday. Next step is carb clean out. Mine starts and idles fine but dies when I try to give it gas.
  12. Seems painting on a melted waxy concoction or paraffin or linseed or toilet rings would do better and simpler than epoxy. I’m sure there is a right answer. Glad to hear you’re trying to respect and preserve some usefulness out of the old fellas. Once milled a 30” poplar Into slabs with a chainsaw with my brother which was a lot of work but quite rewarding. Not sure you’ll find a chainsaw with a 60+ inch bar though. If you want a Covid workout plan get you a broad axe and start hewing haha.
  13. In my bodywork days as a high schooler I liked my pneumatic air file. Blasted a lot of bondo with that thing. Do people use those on boats? Seems like a good tool to me, and relatively inexpensive, if I ever had to do that job.
  14. I really enjoyed following this project. What would you say your top speed is with that 15hp? I’ve been wanting to build a replacement for my 12ft aluminum “vee” that would be better for chop but still light enough to haul up onto my floating dock for storage. Your project, maybe in Okoume, looks better but a bit more complicated than the basic stitch and glue skiffs I was considering.
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