Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About usa1136

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

4,721 profile views
  1. Just following up on this post. I was able to turn the upper (male) collar 90 degrees, re-drill new holes for the collar pin and the tiller bolt and attach.
  2. Is anyone racing the SD NOODs on a j105, sailing with the new North spinnaker design? I hear they’re are a few in that market being tested. If so, what are your thoughts?
  3. So any feedback on the new 2021 versions. Rumor has it no more Ingarol again?
  4. You are just replacing the handle? Pop off the cap in the middle reach from under the sink with some vice grips, clamp it on to the nut and unscrew the handle off from the front. If you are not pulling off the hoses, that should not be too tough.
  5. Purchased a J105 last fall with a wheel, found someone selling a tiller conversion kit from a boat of similar age (Pre-SCRIMP). Two questions: 1) The lower SS sleeve 17239 (Female) was filled with fiberglass that I needed to remove with a dremel in order to fit the upper sleeve into it. Any idea why it was filled? 2) When I try to slip the upper sleeve sleeve into the lower sleeve, the holes don't line up for the pin. I can get the upper sleeve low enough, meaning the pin holes don't line up between the two sleeves. There is about half a hole to go (only have of the hole overlaps
  6. Couldn't bring myself to pay the price of the Stainless Steel push button locker seat latch on the standard J-Boat source . It's made by Victory, part number HM007104. Only $15 each at https://www.thechandleryonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=9134. Nice upgrade for older hull models.
  7. sleeving interior of boom for backing plate to increase thickness for tapping the new bolts for new hardware.
  8. Replacing my outhaul hardware on my boom. Going to tap / bolt new hardware on. Was thinking to ensure they stay there for a decade or two, was going to buy a then sheet of aluminum that is bendable and cut the the shape of the bottom of the boom, then drill/tap and affix to the hardware area. What Gauge aluminum sheet is best to use that will still be bendable enough to fit into the space?
  9. best stuff i haver ever used...deks olje use d1 then d2
  10. I decided to convert a new to me J105 to tiller steering. I removed every piece of hardware on the boat, drilled, filled red drilled, primed, painted, etc. For a 25 year boat she is very dry. Except...under the now removed wheel pedestal. Spent the day yesterday removing core and prepping to replace core and laminate. The area was completely soaked with a crack 13” long directly below the pedestal. It appeared that not only were the bolts that hold up the steering pulleys/system through the core with no epoxy isolation, but a 2” hole was drilled for the cables which exposed the ba
  11. Has anyone ever used FRP (Polywall Plastic Panel0 @ Home Depot) to replace old interior vinyl liners in the interior walls of the cabin?
  12. In theory you can roll sections of top coat, shake the soft sand on the paint quickly (completely cover the paint), let dry then paint two more coats. I am told it looks great. I used a primer as a base and it didn't stick well. Maybe worth a try , I've seen videos and it comes out great.
  13. I just applied Quantum 99 topcoat with "softsand" last week. I mixed the softsand 2 caps of the pint container of softsand per 16 oz of paint. (including paint, thinner, activator). I applied by dabbing a large Purdy brush which allowed me to control (to some degree) the soft sand distribution. I was not able to control softsand consistency with a roller and the broadcast method did not work form me (sand did not stick well enough). So went with the brush and dab approach. I was very happy with how it came out and this method allows you to dab more on with the second coat and "fill in" ar
  14. Thanks. I think based on my section sizes, I can apply each section, stop, re-stir mixture and pour more into the try, repeat. Waterways; who knew, then I glad a located the waterways running to the stanchion bases of the lifelines. Almost like I knew what I was doing.
  15. Removed all hardware from the deck, filled, faired and now have three coats of primer on the deck and two coats of topcoat on the smooth section of the deck/cabin house/cockpit. Now time to paint the non-skid. Taped out "sections" for the non-skid to help manage the job. I tried to apply the soft sand via broadcast method over freshly rolled paint and the soft sand did not stick well - big fail. Now areas are -re-sanded and ready for second try and will be adding the soft sand into the topcoat this time and rolling on. Are they any tips before I go for try #2 that folks can share? I hav
  • Create New...