Jump to content

usa1136

Members
  • Content Count

    231
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Whiner

About usa1136

  • Rank
    Anarchist

Profile Information

  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Sailing

Recent Profile Visitors

4,836 profile views
  1. Agreed, I never thought I needed it until we raced the J105 NA with 34 boats on the line. With that long of a line, the midline sag at times was enormous. Those who had a pro-start or equivalent were launched.
  2. When I started researching the cost of battle flags I puked a little in my mouth when I was quoted a price. So...I did a little research online. Now this is not going to have your 72 degree luff angle and you will need to bring it to someone who can reinforce the two grommets, but $30 for a double sided 4' x 6' flag was right up my alley and happy with the product so far. https://www.anley.com/customization/custom-flag/
  3. I agree, finding a good, dependable diver is worth their weight in gold! I've learned my lesson using the "cheap" diver".
  4. Is it typical for those that conduct bottom services (spraying bottom paint, cleaning bottom weekly) use LOA to calculate their rate? Just seems odd to use a measurement that is mutually exclusive from the service being rendered. But surely not gong to be "that guy" who bring it up as it will just turn into a high cost per foot inflation increase I'm sure.
  5. This story has hints of Evolution Sails Easton back in 2012. Different year, similar story.
  6. Made the decision it is time for a time and distance to line instrument. I have an old race master on the mast, h3000 instruments and recently purchased a B&G Vulcan 12 as a chart plotter that is down below. I didn’t even realize that the Vulcan had options for setting the starting line but i don’t want someone down below or screwing with an iPad at the start. I assume time/distance to the line from the Vulcan can’t be fed from to one of my h3000 instruments in the cockpit. So…what instrument is best, meaning simple to use, easy to read from 15’ away at the mast and fast
  7. But the bigger question is how long will the new version flash low battery before it dies, but can do nothing else?! :-)
  8. I heard the same thing. Rumor has it Trindad will be coming out with a new formula that has multiple biocides and slime reducers next year. I hear there is some being tested now, but not for long so not sure how testing would be ample to know how a season ensures given the timeline. It sounds to me like Pettit did not have a viable solution when the EPA banned Ingarol. They removed it from the formula and added more copper, like they did two years ago when it wasn't being produced. Maybe the new paint will be great, but remember when Pettit said Black Widow was the next best thing? They s
  9. How have established classes with roller furling headsails dealt with air battens? Do they work? Do classes allow? It is interesting that the https://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/EquipmentRulesofSailing20212024-[26661].pdf does not appear to define a batten so I would think without a definition, classes would need to carve out language to not allow?
  10. Did the same and agree quantum 99 and soft sand was easy and looks great.
  11. And stagger the horizontal edges 1-2” so they are not the same on both sides of the sail.
  12. Pex from Home Depot. They make End caps to fit over the end. Just drill a hole for the wire. Bryen but spinnaker stopper balls for the end the are just higher than the stanchion. Just take a rag with acetone to remove the numbering.
  13. I don't need to go on a diet. The body weight of movable crew members is not quite the same as a battery. If an owner's goal is to win, why would they not want to optimize their boat by following the rules and guidelines of the class they sail? If you don't want to attempt to optimize your boat, that's cool, but sorry to break it to you, but trying to balance a boat's weight and focus weight in more preferred and allowed areas of the boat is not a foreign concept for competitive boats.
  14. OD class allows one or two. Thinking of making the change prior to weighing the boat. All owner junk (bilge pump only) is attached to Bat 1 that will stay. Both are AGMs and the same size Cranking amps
  15. Currently have two batteries in 35' boat for racing I want to remove one of them when racing. If I disconnect and remove the second battery temporarily for racing and cover the main wires that connect to the battery terminals and turn my Perko to battery 1, is that all i need to do? Or by removing the second battery will the boat not have power and I need to take additional steps? Obviously wiring is not my strong suit so I apologize for the stupid question in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...