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Everything posted by GroupW

  1. I add was told that there are only a handful (if that) of keys for all yanmar inboards. Does anyone know if this is true?
  2. Been very happy with D1 and D2. Easy to apply, easy to upkeep. go with minimum of 6 coats. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/168?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhZC5v6ao9QIVDLh3Ch0Azw-0EAAYASAAEgJDlfD_BwE
  3. Connect with Paul D @ Doyle, they just came announced a new sail design for the Sparcraft. http://j105sails.com/ He just sent this email earlier this week... "New" Sparcraft Mainsail Many boats sailing with the newer Sparcraft masts have been struggling to be competitive. This summer I spent a lot of time physically measuring and analyzing the spar to built a mainsail that fits the full potential of this mast. The Sparcraft mast is stiffer laterally and can bend through a greater range than the hall spar. The mast tuning is a polar opposite to the Hall Spar requiring the mainsail to
  4. Agreed, I never thought I needed it until we raced the J105 NA with 34 boats on the line. With that long of a line, the midline sag at times was enormous. Those who had a pro-start or equivalent were launched.
  5. When I started researching the cost of battle flags I puked a little in my mouth when I was quoted a price. So...I did a little research online. Now this is not going to have your 72 degree luff angle and you will need to bring it to someone who can reinforce the two grommets, but $30 for a double sided 4' x 6' flag was right up my alley and happy with the product so far. https://www.anley.com/customization/custom-flag/
  6. I agree, finding a good, dependable diver is worth their weight in gold! I've learned my lesson using the "cheap" diver".
  7. Is it typical for those that conduct bottom services (spraying bottom paint, cleaning bottom weekly) use LOA to calculate their rate? Just seems odd to use a measurement that is mutually exclusive from the service being rendered. But surely not gong to be "that guy" who bring it up as it will just turn into a high cost per foot inflation increase I'm sure.
  8. This story has hints of Evolution Sails Easton back in 2012. Different year, similar story.
  9. Made the decision it is time for a time and distance to line instrument. I have an old race master on the mast, h3000 instruments and recently purchased a B&G Vulcan 12 as a chart plotter that is down below. I didn’t even realize that the Vulcan had options for setting the starting line but i don’t want someone down below or screwing with an iPad at the start. I assume time/distance to the line from the Vulcan can’t be fed from to one of my h3000 instruments in the cockpit. So…what instrument is best, meaning simple to use, easy to read from 15’ away at the mast and fast
  10. But the bigger question is how long will the new version flash low battery before it dies, but can do nothing else?! :-)
  11. I heard the same thing. Rumor has it Trindad will be coming out with a new formula that has multiple biocides and slime reducers next year. I hear there is some being tested now, but not for long so not sure how testing would be ample to know how a season ensures given the timeline. It sounds to me like Pettit did not have a viable solution when the EPA banned Ingarol. They removed it from the formula and added more copper, like they did two years ago when it wasn't being produced. Maybe the new paint will be great, but remember when Pettit said Black Widow was the next best thing? They s
  12. How have established classes with roller furling headsails dealt with air battens? Do they work? Do classes allow? It is interesting that the https://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/EquipmentRulesofSailing20212024-[26661].pdf does not appear to define a batten so I would think without a definition, classes would need to carve out language to not allow?
  13. Did the same and agree quantum 99 and soft sand was easy and looks great.
  14. And stagger the horizontal edges 1-2” so they are not the same on both sides of the sail.
  15. Pex from Home Depot. They make End caps to fit over the end. Just drill a hole for the wire. Bryen but spinnaker stopper balls for the end the are just higher than the stanchion. Just take a rag with acetone to remove the numbering.
  16. I don't need to go on a diet. The body weight of movable crew members is not quite the same as a battery. If an owner's goal is to win, why would they not want to optimize their boat by following the rules and guidelines of the class they sail? If you don't want to attempt to optimize your boat, that's cool, but sorry to break it to you, but trying to balance a boat's weight and focus weight in more preferred and allowed areas of the boat is not a foreign concept for competitive boats.
  17. OD class allows one or two. Thinking of making the change prior to weighing the boat. All owner junk (bilge pump only) is attached to Bat 1 that will stay. Both are AGMs and the same size Cranking amps
  18. Currently have two batteries in 35' boat for racing I want to remove one of them when racing. If I disconnect and remove the second battery temporarily for racing and cover the main wires that connect to the battery terminals and turn my Perko to battery 1, is that all i need to do? Or by removing the second battery will the boat not have power and I need to take additional steps? Obviously wiring is not my strong suit so I apologize for the stupid question in advance.
  19. Just following up on this post. I was able to turn the upper (male) collar 90 degrees, re-drill new holes for the collar pin and the tiller bolt and attach.
  20. Is anyone racing the SD NOODs on a j105, sailing with the new North spinnaker design? I hear they’re are a few in that market being tested. If so, what are your thoughts?
  21. So any feedback on the new 2021 versions. Rumor has it no more Ingarol again?
  22. You are just replacing the handle? Pop off the cap in the middle reach from under the sink with some vice grips, clamp it on to the nut and unscrew the handle off from the front. If you are not pulling off the hoses, that should not be too tough.
  23. Purchased a J105 last fall with a wheel, found someone selling a tiller conversion kit from a boat of similar age (Pre-SCRIMP). Two questions: 1) The lower SS sleeve 17239 (Female) was filled with fiberglass that I needed to remove with a dremel in order to fit the upper sleeve into it. Any idea why it was filled? 2) When I try to slip the upper sleeve sleeve into the lower sleeve, the holes don't line up for the pin. I can get the upper sleeve low enough, meaning the pin holes don't line up between the two sleeves. There is about half a hole to go (only have of the hole overlaps
  24. Couldn't bring myself to pay the price of the Stainless Steel push button locker seat latch on the standard J-Boat source . It's made by Victory, part number HM007104. Only $15 each at https://www.thechandleryonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=9134. Nice upgrade for older hull models.
  25. sleeving interior of boom for backing plate to increase thickness for tapping the new bolts for new hardware.
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