Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

30 Kiss-ass

About ghost37

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My good friend has a Lafitte 44 - a really nice Perry designed bluewater cutter. Turns out the yard's solution to bungs was simply to screw the teak decks from the bottom. So while there are no bungs popping out, screw tips are starting to poke through the almost 40 year old deck. It leaks like a sieve offshore and it's balsa cored. At least Swans were foam core. I would repower many times over before I found the mental fortitude to take that project on, and I certainly can't imagine the cost of paying someone to do it. So yeah, you have an absolute gem of a boat that is essentially untouchabl
  2. Are you insinuating that we can't keep up with a Hanse 505?! Because you'd be absolutely...right ha. Maui's boat is bigger than ours, and the loads on the main are much higher too. I think the caveats you make about angles and hardware are particularly important if using the brake as a standalone preventer though. The angles are much tighter when using boom brake (mid boom to toe rail?) relative to an end boom-to-bow preventer and the hardware must be beef to accommodate the higher loads. Inadequate hardware started a series of events that led to the sinking of Platino. See NZ accident r
  3. Fixed it! Teak deck replacement costs in the states have skyrocketed over the last 2 years.
  4. Never been a fan of these. We use preventers from end of boom to bow and then back to cockpit for adjustability. Easy to rig and easy to leave rigged.
  5. Yeah to Evans' point, there are a lot of options to store the wire stay, although it's obviously clunkier than dyneema. If you choose wire, most folks go with a stainless j-hook for a storage solution (similar to the word doc you posted). Happy to upload some pics as food for thought if helpful. Ours goes to toe rail, just ahead of forward lower stay. I think our solent use case (storm jib and staysail) is different than yours so we chose wire out of concern about chafe in the scenarios we use it. We use a Schaefer quick release lever (SRL-500), which has been great. It is pricey, but ver
  6. Yeah don't really trust pumps to have filters built in. Mr. Funnel is exactly what we have, thanks for jogging my memory. Not even asking for 30 microns. 100 microns is totally fine. Again, just trying to keep larger particles out of the tank. Anything smaller should get sucked up and filtered out before it gets to the engine by our primary and secondary filters.
  7. Our tank is encapsulated in the keel and we don't have great access, so keeping gunk out of the tank is important. We currently use a baja style fuel filter (think funnel with particulate filter built in) when filling our tank from either jugs or the fuel dock. This always ends in a bit of a mess since not all fuel makes its way through the funnel and then has to be clumsily poured back into a jug or something else. Has anyone seen an in-line filter that we could mount below deck? Deck fill would be connected to inlet and outlet would flow down to the tank. Ideally it would have a filter
  8. Just curious, can you expand on examples of this happening? I've never heard of any VPC failures before due to UV, and have several rigger friends who like VPC relative to Viper (better hand).
  9. Would recommend soaking hoses and head discharge fittings in white vinegar for a few hours. We liveaboard and do this every few years. Head hoses are expensive so keen to get as much life out of them as possible.
  10. This entire thread...talk about a solution looking for a problem. If you hate cotter pins so badly, get a Freedom or Nonsuch.
  11. Thanks for this. The issue isn’t the mast head offset calibration from the physical installation (which I’ve already adjusted for), the issue is that the AWA and TWA angles are off by as much as 40-50 degrees when moving. Again, when not moving, totally fine.
  12. Hi all - Our new WS320 and Triton 2 display are giving us inaccurate data for both true wind angle and apparent wind angle when the boat is moving. In addition to the WS320 we have the ubiquitous Davis wind indicator. When anchored, true wind angle matches the wind indicator. When moving the WS320 airvane matches the Davis wind indicator, but AWA displayed on the Triton 2 relative to the wind indicator is off by as much as 40*. In another example, I can head up 30*, but apparent wind angle on the Triton 2 changes 2-3*. I am sure the issues lies in the Triton 2 settings or data sourcing. I
  13. I know this isn't wasn't what you asked for, but... we have the bluetooth puck for the WS320 down in the lazarette with the rest of our N2K network / wiring. Our air vane is 53ft above water and we haven't had an issue with connectivity since installed last fall. If you aren't dead set on mounting it on the rail, hopefully this can save you from making unnecessary holes in your boat.
  14. That lady is frekkin' terrible. Just last week I called to ask a few basic questions about a specific type of mast tang they carry and got the same treatment. Hate giving them my money, but no better alternative.
  • Create New...