Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

18 Whiner

About JonathanW

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Interests
    Sailing (duh). Woodworking. DevOps. Amateur Radio. Sewing. Too many things.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you, Ted, for drawing lines that caught the fancy of an engineer and his wife in Erie, who built and sailed that design for almost 30 years, and then posted an ad that caught our eye a few years ago. Hopefully we will also be sailing her for a long time. The lines got my attention, but her motion under sail was what sold both me and my wife. She sails with confidence.
  2. Usually sitting across from me regaling me with stories from her favorite podcasts! This past weekend, she put in some tiller time while I fixed myself a sandwich for lunch. The stud on the tiller for the autopilot sheared off early in our trip Saturday (there’s only so much constant back and forth in shear those things can take). Pinniped was in a good groove nearly all day (obviously not when the pin sheared, of course), so it was a fun day all around, and she got to get a little more comfortable at the helm.
  3. When the wife requests a daysail for her birthday, there is only one correct answer…
  4. Hi all. I’ve got a bit of a left-field question, but there are some fascinating people who hang out here, so maybe someone will have some info. Our Jason 35 was built from plans (started 1981, launched 1991) by the previous owner. He incorporated features he liked from other boats, built up over several years of visiting boats at the Annapolis show. All of the ports are Cherubini ports, the ones with the wood dogs to secure the glass open or closed. We love these things. The hype about being able to leave them open in a rain is real. The only modification I ever think about is to s
  5. Ah, that stainless trim made it look pretty classy, though... Black delrin is probably out. It doesn't take paint well, and this has to be white or at least paintable.
  6. I think cutting the bolts would cause a lot of damage to the underlying hull. I can definitely tap the bolts out. I had avoided that in case I ran into something that would make the job impossible to do this year, as I didn't want to damage the threads. At this point, though, I'm relatively sure that I can do this, so I care less about marring the existing bolts. With the bolts out, the garrote would work a treat. So many ideas. Now I just need some decent weather to go up and work on her again.
  7. Thanks for the replies so far, all. I appreciate them. Some replies: Fortunately, these do NOT seem to be 5200. The sealant seems like the rest of the stuff on the boat, which is still flexible after some 30 years (boat splashed in 1991). I think this is just a case of a good sealant bond over a long area with a small cross-section, so it is hard to get leverage on it by hand. I like the garrote idea, too, but with bolts every six inches (which themselves are bedded in sealant), getting it around each bolt is going to be somewhat challenging. While I'm 93% sure the existing rails
  8. Hello all. I’m looking for some advice as we begin a project to replace the rub rails on our owner-built Jason 35. A short backstory: Both port and starboard rails showed some signs of decay, especially at the forward and aft ends, and to a lesser extent along the top edge against the hull. The port rail had some repair in the middle, where it looked like the original owner/builder had cut out and replaced a section. The sealant was still in good shape, but I knew we would eventually have to address these. Well, when we were lifted out for winter storage a few weeks ago, the for
  9. Winter layup projects began last weekend with the rub rails. The fwd tip of the starboard rail busted off because the lift strap was a little too far forward, and while moving us to the yard, the strap bore against the tip until it popped off a piece. The rails have some decay at the ends, and the port one had some repair in the center, which looks like it may have been rot fixed by the builder/PO. We figured it would we would eventually want to replace them, just not expecting it this year. At least our bottom job held up well (especially for being rather rushed and it being my first time doi
  10. This is why I keep high resolution copies of all important documents in multiple places. On that note, if you’ve ever emailed a copy to anyone, it might be hanging around in your sent folder.
  11. Looks like a Lewmar. Mine is similar. Nearly all hardware on our boat is Lewmar, ordered and installed by the builder in the latter half of the 1980’s.
  12. So, the pin outs look correct all the way around. I poked at the manuals for the tuner and radio. The radio does have an option in the set menu that will disable the tune button and cause tuning to occur on TX. However, I found something a little more curious. You are probably already aware and doing this, but the manual says to operate tune for the AH-4, one must push and hold the tune button for one second, whereas the AT-180 tunes with a simple push of the tune button. Did you try the press-and-hold? Manual p.69 for reference on where I saw this.
  13. Did you check the control cable to make sure the internal side is pinned correctly? If I remember correctly, the control cable can be re-pinned on an internal block to work with other transceivers. Edit to add: Receive can be working fine with just a piece of wire connected. It might not be electrically optimal, but it can still work well enough to hear a lot of things. The tuner will add capacitance and inductance to make it look “right” during transmit so that the impedance is correct for the amplifier stage, but it won’t make the hunk of wire receive signals better.
  14. Finally out sailing this year! Last weekend solo shakedown/make sure everything is working, this weekend my wife asked to go sailing for her birthday. The weather cooperated Saturday for a beautiful sail.
  15. @Ajax this prop mechanism was built by a Dutch company (I’d have to dig out the documentation for the company name—can’t recall off the top of my head), and it was intended for seagoing boats. It looks about as likely to jam as any prop with joints at the blades might be, with maybe some advantage because the actuating mechanism can apply some serious leverage. Another nice benefit of this particular system is that there is no stuffing box or drip seal to deal with. There’s a marine universal between the transmission and the prop shaft mechanism, which has a sealed gland through which th
  • Create New...