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Everything posted by zenyatta

  1. zenyatta

    Outhaul Sheave Re-Do

    I just redid my outhaul, wondering what to do about the sheave box. I have this stock endcap with a sheave built in, but the sheave is old and worn. Doesn't seem like replacing that sheave in the endcap would be easy ( I tried to hammer out the pin, it's fused solid). I doubt it's been touched since the 80s. I am thinking about doing away with the endcap and bolting on a sheave box (something like the below). Since it's at the end of the boom I could actually get solid bolts on it pretty easily. Any issues with this plan? It seems I would be sacrificing some strength / stiffness at the end of the boom without the end cap, is it enough to worry about? The boat is a 24' sportboat (wabbit)
  2. zenyatta

    Outhaul Sheave Re-Do

    Ok, any tips on removing this sheave? It seems to be essentially fused in - I suppose drilling it out is an option. It does spin somewhat so I may just live with it for a while and kick the can down the road
  3. zenyatta

    SF Bay moorage - dry or wet

    Just to add here, Brickyard cove is under new ownership now (now called "Boardwalk Port Marina") and they opened up a number of additional 30' spots. As of a few weeks ago they still had dry sail spots available, so I would give them a call if you're interested. Of course they jacked up the price to $200 a month now... Richmond in general is one of the most active parts of the bay in terms of racing. RYC being one of the most active clubs. It also has the plus side of being much closer to the bay itself. I have sailed out of Alameda and it sure is nice if you're interested in doing Wednesday night beer cans, but the commute out to the bay can definitely be a drag at times (45mins ish to get to the bay itself) . But for warm weather and flat water you can't beat it.
  4. zenyatta

    Backstay Adjuster Line

    What kind of line is best for a backstay adjuster on a 24ft sport boat. I'm assuming the lowest stretch possible is best, or does it really matter?
  5. zenyatta

    The Swedish Experiment

    I actually saw that guy and it really doesn't make a whole lot of sense. I mean surely eventually we would (even if it takes 2 million deaths, which IMO is a pretty insane estimate). We never had a vaccine for the 1918, 1957, 1968, or 2009 pandemics. In fact, are there any pandemics that have ever ended with a vaccine? I'm not saying it's the correct approach, but to say that it is literally impossible to achieve herd immunity seems pretty ludicrous. The obviously has a lot to gain financially t w respect to vaccine's and imo that's enough of a bias to throw out everything he said, or at the very least take it with a grain of salt
  6. zenyatta

    Getting Tough With The Maskless

    are you indicating you would wear a mask while driving around alone (or with family) with the windows rolled down? Of course everyone has a different risk tolerance but this seems a bit extreme. My understanding is that you need not only exposure but also a duration of exposure long enough (like over 10-15 minutes minutes of very close direct contact) to get enough virus in your system to be infected. Biggest risk is things like parties, family gatherings, etc. Even grocery stores are extremely low risk since generally you're only in there for a fairly brief period (although it's a high risk environment for employees who spend hours inhaling low levels of the virus) The idea that you might catch the virus passing by someone on the sidewalk outside or even from driving past someone is a bit much if you ask me (but what do I know) With this said better safe than sorry especially if you're high risk and if I was older I might have a very different risk tolerance ( I wear a mask in situations like a grocery store but definitely not while driving around alone with the windows down)
  7. zenyatta

    Has the Proverbial Shoe (prices) Dropped Yet?

    08-9 recession is a good reference point What we do know is everybody will be hurting over the next few years, some more than others
  8. As I have my rig down I figured it would be a good time to get rid of my wire halyards. Of course it means I need a new sheave box for the Jib halyard. I found the equivalent sheave box sized appropriately for rope halyard - it has the same length but is slightly wider. I am pondering how to approach the installation since the holes on the mast will be slightly misaligned with the new box. My current plan is to use a dremel with cutting blade to slightly widen the slot in the mast and then see how far off the holes are. I don't think it will be much. Fortunately the middle hole was unused with the previous sheave box so I will be able to drill two solid new holes for that. I plan on tapping the holes for new stainless machine screws. I am unsure about exactly how to approach the other two - my only decent idea so far is to widen / create a slot etc. on the new sheave box so that it aligns with holes already in the mast - this seems to me to be the best approach if they are only slightly off. But I'm curious if anyone out there has any better ideas. Of course I could always just keep the wire - but if I can make this work I'd prefer to switch over to rope. Thanks all Chris
  9. zenyatta

    Outboard for J27

    Probably not what happened but I have a Suzuki 2.5 which will often freeze up after being left sitting - oil tends to seep into the cylinder over time, especially if left on it's side. Remove spark plug and crank it over a few times to flush out the oil usually does the job.
  10. Wow this thread is disgraceful - suggest you all find something more constructive to do. The nastiness and bitterness is really something Hindsight is always 2020
  11. I think years and years of trying different things is the most accurate answer. At the end of the day it's an art not a science
  12. Announced a few days ago will be moved to October
  13. zenyatta

    The races must go on.

    Dude go crawl back into whatever hole you emerged from.
  14. SF Bay Area going on what is basically "lockdown" starting midnight tonight. https://www.sfchronicle.com/local-politics/article/Bay-Area-must-shelter-in-place-Only-15135014.php
  15. zenyatta

    Cancelling a Race for High Winds: No limits in SI's

    I think it's also relevant that the race was not on not SF Bay, it was on the Alameda Estuary. Typical winds in the Estuary are 5-10knots so the conditions yesterday were extreme for the venue. The Estuary is also a very narrow body of water with little room for maneuvering and lots of commercial traffic, etc. Anecdotally as I was driving across the bay bridge at 2:30 it was definitely "nuking" / survival conditions out the bay itself. Chris
  16. zenyatta

    Topping Lift - or You'll Put Your Eye Out

    I used to have a Capri 22 and the stock "topping lift" kit offered by Catalina was installed on the boat. I recall it was a vinyl coated wire led from the top of the mast to a block on the end of the boom, and led forward - cleated with a clam / jam type cleat or something on the forward part of the boom - seems to me a cam style cleat would be prone to popping out
  17. zenyatta

    Moving Traveler Aft

    Hi all, I've been considering moving the traveler aft all summer and finally got around to tackling this. Reason for the switch is while driving, I'm not able to reach the mainsheet or traveler and in it's old location it would create constant jib sheet / spinnaker sheet clusterfucks - basically too much going on up there. I want the traveler back aft so whoever is driving can worry about the main and get those controls out of the way of everything else. Considering the cockpit seats are slightly curved I believe I'll have to construct some kind of beveled pad for the traveler to rest on - I bought a piece of G10 which I'm hoping will get the job done. My question is what's the best way to create a template / cut this stuff with the right curve to it if that makes sense?? Am I crazy for moving this? I can't really see any downsides other than the occasional bloody shin which I am fine with Pics at link below since I couldn't get them to upload: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmHQBVDk Chris
  18. zenyatta

    Moving Traveler Aft

    Yeah I've decided upon leaving it as is, the main reason it's an issue is the winches have been moved up forward at some point so it leaves all of the controls / spaghetti near in the same place - the jib trimmer has to maneuver sheets around the mainsheet, etc. along with the driver not being able to easily control the traveler. Since the jib sheets get piled up right near the traveler everything gets tangled up and it really is a big mess once the kite goes up if we need to use winches for the sheet/guy. At the very least I think I'll move the control lines for the traveler aft so at least those are out of the way. I suppose we'll just adapt to the boat instead of trying to turn it into a J22
  19. Hi all, I bought a new boat (wilderness 21) and removed some unnecessary winches from the cockpit. Basically I drilled the holes out slightly, duck taped the underside, and filled with thickened west system epoxy. I planning to slap some stuff from a west marine gelcoat repair kit on there but upon consulting the instruction manual it isn't meant to be used with epoxy. Anyway, wondering what kind of paint I can slap on this to protect the epoxy, cosmetics are not important, and the deck isn't cored in this spot. Just want something to cover up the epoxy. Probably a dumb question but I've got not idea what I'm doing here, open to any and all suggestions. Chris