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feist

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About feist

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  1. Hey Ryan, I did eventually sort out the overheating process, and holy fuck was it a comedy of errors... Somewhere between the third descaling flush and replacing all of the hoses I convinced myself that things were good to go. They were not. Wife and I went out for a day sail, on our way back the wind calms down, the motor comes on, until the overheating alarm starts screaming, we're in a ferry lane, I push the engine harder than I should have, damage the rear main seal getting back to the dock. So the overheating issue turned into a much more stimulating mission replacing the rear main seal [
  2. RAN1 for sale again. Besides the riveted deck it looks pretty sweet at $70k https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/custom-beason-40-3748352/
  3. Took a year and a half off to pedal down to Argentina and had a job offer the day we rolled into Ushuaia. And every company I've talked with since are more keen to discuss that trip than my professional experience. It was wonderful to come back to a fat paycheque and comfortable life after living the adventure life.
  4. Panic is my default setting with this engine, slowly working on that. I'm planning on pulling the engine this winter for a bit of a rebuild (I'll be more confident by then... Maybe). The seal came out nice and easy pulling on a couple screws, thanks.
  5. I don't think the o'ring is leaking but I figured that I'm in this deep I might as well replace it as well. After another couple hours trying to coax it out I might just press the new seal on and forget about the o'ring until I pull the engine this winter. You are correct, the bolt pattern is not symmetrical in the carrier, and now I know that hole in the carrier is called an 'oil gallery', thanks.
  6. https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2005/koopmans-center-board-cutter-rigged-3700720/ Impressively outfitted boat for the money. Things get a bit mock worthy with the weight... If it was 12,000lbs lighter I'd be selling up and sailing away.
  7. I've tried to grab hold of the lip with slip lock pliers with no success. I like the needlenose vise grip idea, I might grab a second pair before I head back down to the boat. Getting the bell housing off would give me a much better angle to work on the carrier.
  8. You're saving future me plenty of money with this wisdom. I'm sure it's obvious to a lot of forum members but I don't know shit about shit when it comes to this stuff.
  9. Thanks, I was able to rotate the carrier a couple centimetres by tapping on it but my lack of confidence made me second guess the approach. I'll spend some more time trying to rotate it to see if I can get it to break free. I have a new oil pipe sitting on my desk [the current pipe is leaking], because it terminates behind the starter [which I have really poor access to] I was thinking about removing the bell housing with the starter attached and sneaking the new oil pipe in - but my first attempt to remove the bell housing failed so the old oil pipe remains.
  10. Full transparency, I blocked up the oil pan and tried to remove the bell housing so I could come at it directly from the side... and I couldn't get the bell housing to budge. There are a couple pegs that stick out from the block and into the bell housing, likely for alignment reasons, I thought they might be threaded for some reason so I didn't pound on the bell housing as hard as I will next time.
  11. Unfortunately the holes in the carrier are not threaded. Sounds like I'll I'll spend another afternoon in the hole trying my patience.
  12. I knew there was an obvious solution ... always have two motors on board
  13. It's not uncommon for my little 13hp Yanmar 2GM to beat me, this time it's the rear main seal carrier, I'd like to remove the entire carrier to replace an o-ring where it interfaces with the block [i will also be replacing the main seal]. It was a battle to get the damper plate off the fly wheel and I'm guessing the carrier hasn't been pulled off in 35 years either... But I'm sure there's a solution that I haven't come to on my own.
  14. Laziness mainly. My current flushing system avoids the new impeller I just installed [not sure if the Rydlyme descaler would negatively impact it] and mitigates the need to hook up a water source to the mixing elbow to keep the exhaust cool while the descaler circulates in the closed loop. I'm cautiously optimistic my second descaling mission cleared enough of the blockage to maintain engine temperature under load. But with each small win comes an embarrassing learning opportunity - During the 5 hour descaling mission, I had my 5th attempt at removing the anode that's in the block [not t
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