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  1. Nothing wrong with any of that. I don't have a single "wall hanger" tool. Most of what I have is my or her grandfather's stuff --everything else is yard or estate sales so someone else's grandfather owned it. Nothing is a wall hanger because I have a hard time believing that the guy who made those tools pictured them all pretty hanging on a wall. You won't overstrike (that much) if you use them often. How are the plastic tools? Are they balanced? Also, I can't imagine teaching my kid or grandkid how to 3D print an axe handle.
  2. What do you have? I have a bit of an OCD obsession with blunt striking objects and sharp things. I have a lot of old axes and hammers. The only worthless/meaningless axe I have is the no-name 3/4 boys axe I used as a kid. Other than that, everything else is pretty cool. (probably have about 30 restored axes) My go-to axes are a U.S. Army (1945) Plumb hatchet or a 4# Plumb Victory full axe. Both of which I picked up at yard sales. Somehow I found a keeper. She doesn't mind linseed oil (smell). Says it reminds her of her grandpa's house when she was a kid. Not so sure she will feel the sam
  3. Funny you mention an axe. I completely understand the reference. I have her grandfather's axe. Her dad gave it to me. When I got it, the haft (handle) was split and the poll (back, butt) was cracked and was missing metal in a V pattern. Her grandfather (her mom's dad) was a tool and die maker (a good one) but her dad --not so much. He used an axe and a hammer to split wood, not a maul, sledge and wedges. The axe was ridden hard and put up wet. (beat to shit) Obviously this is a sentimental item but also this is a very early 5# (five pound) Collins Legitimus axe. Very hard to
  4. I think I've found another boat. Price is right, it's not publicly listed, it's a Fleet 50 boat that's been through the Waterline shop a time or two... With a trailer maybe I'll do both boats.
  5. Yes. I just don't want to be insulting to a lot of these guys. I grew up with a lot of them. I know how much my dad put into the boat we had. Yes, cash is king. (I worked on wall street, I understand that very well.) To be honest, the disaster boats (early TPI) were a mess. Keels were all over the place... Forward, back, way back --even some too far forward. If I happen to have found an early boat that's an absolute disaster... Except the keel is (legit) roughly at max forward, how much is a disaster boat worth that has its keel at max forward from the factory. (all lead
  6. One of my concerns is the boat being competitive. Put me in any of the last 10 boats that have won the worlds and I can't come close to sailing at that level. (I know, I grew up with all those guys, I'm not that good) But I at least want to end up with a boat that can be even with them so if I'm having a good race --or my kid is an awesome sailor, we have a solid platform to compete with. Early TPI boats were a mess. Some of the keels came out brand new further forward than max forward rules of today. Those boats were all over the place. If you happen to find a good boat (that can be saved) th
  7. Goal is to have my own (4 kids + me) but I'm a couple years out from that Also at least a year out from having a race-able boat. Anyone have info on Will Grahm? His old boat (#369) has been sitting for a LONG time at a random consignment shop (close your eyes and picture a pawn shop for boats). Spoke to the guy today and he said the boat has only been there for one month. I told him the trailer has two flat tires, the water in the cabin is up to the floor boards and there is mouse shit everywhere inside the boat (all the chutes are mouse nests --but they are vintage 1995 Sobstad chutes
  8. Thanks. Are those numbers for that 1991 boat? I understand. Put 20-25 in and get 15 if I sell. Interesting that you consider anything not North or Quantum to be off-brand. I wear a Doyle hat & belt. The 105 I raced on was out of City Island. I'll buy my sails from Paul. So then a question about resale value: Tim Corbett was/is asking $20k (now looks like 18) for his boat (1948). If he can get 15+ for 1948 then what's the difference between a 48xx boat and a 19xx or even a 10xx (converted) vintage boat? And more importantly, what is the difference in resale value between a 5000
  9. Living so close to fleet 50 means the j24 is the least common denominator for a small, easy (and pretty cheap) race boat. Thanks. Not sure yet what I'll do. Have three boats to choose from (all early boats). I started racing J24's about 25 years ago. Took a break for a while and did some 105 stuff but have sailed 24's forever. I'm familiar with the new boats (worked in the business) and I get what you mean about the two schools of thought. I hadn't really considered hull stiffness. Never really thought it was that big of a deal but just like everything else, every little bit matters
  10. In my bigger picture, unless something happens and Fleet 50 dies out, this will be a boat my kids grow up with (in addition to jr sailing). So in the grander scheme, I know I should not walk away, I should RUN away --but the time spent now will pay dividends in the future. And to be perfectly honest... I learned on hand-me-down boats and it was cool to watch the opti's this weekend. Every once in a while a low 4-digit sail number would go by and I'd wonder if I knew who used to sail that boat. Truthfully my kids will probably be sailing some type of foiling contraption but who knows...
  11. How do I find a super early post-vermiculite boat with new slider that has never been raced (faired, messed with), also with a trailer and new mast --for a reasonable price...?? Carbon footprint: She can drive a model x. I'm fine with 10-12mpg and no insane mode.
  12. A boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by wood/fiberglass into which one pours money --right? Thanks for both replies (have not read bump-grind's reply yet). In terms of what my time is worth, I'm worried about a few things: First, I don't want to buy a boat that someone else messed with. I want to basterdize the boat myself. That's probably my biggest concern. Ideally I want to start from scratch and do it right. Will that cost more and take a lot more time? Of course, but when I'm done I'll have a competitive boat so at least I'll know it is the sailors that win/lose, n
  13. **Disclaimer** You don't know me, I don't know you. I am genuinely asking this community a question. If you have nothing to contribute, please don't. I'm not interested in posts about girls/boobs, sarcasm, rhetoric, etc. I looked at an early TPI boat (j24) that I'd like to fix and race in fleet 50. Hull # has significance and emotional attachment. Outside that a boat is a boat. It needs everything. Everything and anything you could ever possibly imagine --it needs all that and more. Boat also probably needs an intro to a chainsaw but I'm willing to do the work. This is a vermiculite J24
  14. It depends. Could be a little and could be a lot. Where are the soft spots? Sometimes water can get in and spread a bunch and sometimes only a little water gets in. Something you can do to cheat a little: let's say you are doing an area around a jib track. When you drill your holes to put the jib track back on, drill them oversize, tape the bottom and then fill the oversize hole with epoxy. Then go back and drill the proper sized hole through the middle of the epoxy. You have to be careful because the epoxy will be much more brittle than the original deck was so don't make the epoxy too big. U
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