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13 Whiner

About evandinsmore

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  • Birthday 04/10/1989

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  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario
  • Interests
    I like sailing fast and driving faster.

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  1. @danstanford They've modified their sprit with a bobstay supporting each tack location. It would definitely make sense that it's rigged that way for quick sail changes, probably easier than using the foil for both jib top and jib, and also frees up the end of the sprit for a quick change to code zero/spinnaker.
  2. Not the ring, the cheek block for the downhauler pulled apart. Make sure your car is as far aft as you can get it without sacrificing sail shape, and make sure the strop from the car to the low-friction ring is as short as you can make it to reduce the angle of the downhaul going through the cheek block.
  3. This was my setup last year. Basically the same as Jenga, minus the added purchase on the downhauler. The angle of the downhauler going into the cheek block was a problem, even with the car as far back as it will go, it's always putting at least some pressure on the side plates, and the cheek block that comes fitted is a cruising block not meant for high loads. I ended up breaking the port cheek block in 25kts of breeze. The inhauler crossing over to the windward side seems like it should make sense so you can adjust it from the rail while sailing upwind, but in practice we alm
  4. "Please note that these are recommended all-purpose numbers for 18-20 knots of wind. Every set-up will be a little different depending on the sail designs, sail sizes and local conditions."
  5. A Code 55/65 would be measured as a jib in PHRF and carry a massive penalty. Wouldn’t be worth it, as the boat is fully powered up in 6-7 knots TWS, but you would carry the rating penalty through the entire wind range.
  6. We have an owners Google Group where we share info re: tuning, sails, etc. but I haven't seen anything in the way of polars or target speeds. Still figuring the boats out
  7. Hey Dan, I have lazy jacks minus the stack pack. When racing I can un-cleat one end and bring the lazy jacks forward and out of the way so they're not catching on anything (see attached photo, the lines on the boom running forward). When it's time to drop, the lazy jacks get tightened back up to a point that's marked and I can let the main free fall. It's not the prettiest, but it will sit there on the boom under control to be flaked/cleaned up later. Not as easy as a stack pack, but I've done it solo no problem, and no performance loss for racing. You could also look into Dutchman flakin
  8. I haven't measured but I sort of assumed the LOA included the sprit. Bow and stern are pretty plumb, LWL is only 29', and LOA is 33', 4' difference would account for the sprit, no? Correct me if I'm wrong.
  9. I'm racing under PHRF-LO. I believe water ballast is rated on a case by case basis. In the case of mine, which only really replaces 2 people on the rail, and isn't much use in course racing where there's a lot of tacking, there's no rating hit. And yes, electric pump and gravity transfer.
  10. I mostly use it for charts, choosing waypoints, engaging autopilot, and other brief interactions, so it’s easy access from either side by standing up. I have H5000 and 20/20 displays for viewing instruments/other info. Haven’t had a problem so far, and the J version doesn’t fully cover the recess at the sides where there’s more potential for problems. I have accidentally put my foot in the recess and stopped the wheel but that’s user error
  11. Sure, the only tell for the water ballast system are the control lines in the companionway and the vents in the cockpit. This was the original wheel spec shown in the manual, you can see the similarity to the 97 wheel: Here’s my wheel install: And I believe this is the new stock wheel, after several J dealers were asking to replicate the recessed wheel of the two Toronto boats: I still like mine because I have the chartplotter on the pedestal, but this is much better than the original. Also here’s a diagram of the ballast system:
  12. I'm the owner, the ballast pump needed to be below the water line to function properly (wasn't from the factory), and the lines used to open the valves had way too much friction. I believe mine — hull 33 — was only the 2nd with water ballast so I guess they haven't worked out all the kinks yet. The original concept was to have a recessed wheel, but I guess J/boats decided it was too costly/difficult so one of the first wheel-equipped boats came non-recessed, closer to the 97 wheel, which was way too small for such a beamy boat. The owner of that 99 and myself had a larger diameter whee
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