Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

168 F'n Saint

About yoyo

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Trying to talk you out of it ... I don't think I would do an extended south pacific adventure on any boat ULDB or Chunderbeast unless I budgeted for the replacement of all standing rigging and chain plate inspection. That is unless you have proof from PO that the standing rigging was addressed fairly recently. You certainly don't want to have those "is the rig going to be OK" thoughts during the trip. Maybe you can get by with just having the rod re-headed. Comes down to what you are comfortable with. Understanding why you want it ..... Similar to what Panoramix said. One a
  2. Foam ear plugs are quick and can be trimmed flush after they expand. Good seal but not always water tight.
  3. If you are racing I believe lifelines need to be uncoated stainless. You can use dyneema lashings at the ends. I don't remember the rule on wire size or allowable lashing gap. On a light use bay cruiser day sailor I replaced the old crappy rusty vinyl coated wire with uncovered dyneema. The top line is thicker than the original wire and is easy on the hands/back. The stanchion holes do need to be smooth to prevent chafe. Used CS Johnson gate hook splice fittings and a sailmakers thimble for the gates. Simple eye splice (no thimble) and lashings at the ends so a lot less metal parts.
  4. The M24 approaching 50yrs amazing bang for the buck. George and Ron did good. Open transom mod sure looks nice.
  5. That does sound odd. Maybe a boat builder had a bunch of engine/tranny units built and then production was stopped. Or they were pulled so they could mount the engine to a saildrive or a different tranny.
  6. Looks like you have the bed-it butyl from Rod at marine how to. I follow his guidance and wrap the underside of the bolt heads with a thin ring of butyl. Then install all the bolts through the track and add a small cone of butyl around each bolt against the underside of the track. And then butyl on the underside of the track. Lower the track and bolts onto the deck all at the same time. Don't allow the bolts to rotate during tightening. Is the deck cored? If it is now would be the right time to seal the core using the drill, epoxy fill, drill method. Rod has a good how to for that.
  7. Add Jumpin Jack Flash to the unbumped list from LD. Pretty boat I wonder where she is now. 82 clipper cup photo I think...
  8. It sure is a connected world. I don't know anything about the brand and wasn't looking for batteries - I just stumbled on these Lithium batteries from Discover. The BMS has built in Bluetooth for monitoring SOC, V, A, Temp. Check video at about 1:50 in. Terminal fuses also built in. Seems like a cool feature. I'd guess other manufactures might copy. I wonder how accurate they are and what the parasitic load is.
  9. These guys offer many sizes and lids - maybe one will work Rectangular Tanks – Ronco Plastics (ronco-plastics.com)
  10. I agree - strategically placed loops or high load pad eye with block and a nice pad allow for very flexible lead angles. Pic below stolen from internet. Bang pad certainly doesn't need to be carbon. But that does add some bling.
  11. Not sure what the conspiracy is. Just made an observation.
  12. It would be interesting to see what the actual number of worthwhile AC forum posts would be if you removed the endless number of "I'm right you're wrong, your team sucks, ______ is a ____, foiling sucks, landmines rule, blah.. blah.. blah" back and forth opinionated PA like BS from almost every AC thread. And for # of views - everyone likes watching fights and train wrecks. Definitely more minutes of entertainment reading the BS on SA than actual on the water AC racing.
  • Create New...