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  1. George, the J/111 deck core is Corecell foam, not balsa if that's what you were thinking. So good idea to fix the leak, but shouldn't get seriously damaged like balsa would.
  2. Glad to hear it worked out Dan. Just be sure and run a messenger line attached to the electrical lines when you pull the mast. Tie it off to the U-bracket while the mast is down and you'll be able to pull things through when reinstalling.
  3. Dan, see photo for what this plug looked like on my J/88 before I first launched it. After this, whenever I pulled the mast I always left the socket attached to the boat and lifted it off the plug. The cross bolt goes through the U-bracket and its purpose is to prevent the mast from accidentally popping off (according to the manual). The fit was fairly snug and I never noticed any rotational movement. - John
  4. On my (now former) J/88 I used white Gorilla Tape first and then stuck the labels to that. The Gorilla Tape has great adhesion and doesn't appear to deteriorate like Duct Tape.
  5. You need an Ethernet to Lightning adapter, something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Phone-100Mbps/dp/B091BVSYQZ/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+to+lightning+adapter&qid=1624456661&sr=8-5
  6. Worked it through the dealer I bought the boat from and it was relatively painless. Saved me about $2400 (cost of a replacement).
  7. In case anyone cares...turns out the H5000 CPU was faulty and B&G replaced it under warranty. Everything reinstalled and working correctly. Had to manually re-input my polar and calibration data because it wouldn't load the backup file from an iPad.
  8. That's an interesting question. Will try next time I'm at the boat.
  9. Yes, reset to factory settings and no joy. Was really hoping there is some obscure setting I'm missing that is hosing things up but haven't found it. I think since the blue wire consistently shows zero volts at the WebSocket means something is amiss with the CPU.
  10. Thanks, pursuing a warranty claim with B&G for the H5000 CPU. I'm told an alternative would be to get an Analog Expansion Module, plug the MHU into that and bypass the CPU connector. Agree that the instruments can be distracting but since the boat came with all this stuff, I'd like for it to be working. Violet/windspeed is okay, just included it for completeness.
  11. I'm hoping for a B&G wizard to chime in with advice or a fix for my wind angle issues... I've got a J/88 with a full suite of B&G instruments including an H5000 Hercules and 810mm VMHU. I recently had the MHU refurbished in Fort Lauderdale by Wheelhouse Marketing run by Jake Marantz. They replaced the entire cable due to corrosion and the wind speed bearing. The PCB was deemed good. It checked out on their bench and as I moved the wind vane, AWA changed correctly. When I connect to my boat, the wind angle is not correct as AWA, TWA and TWD are all off (sitting at the dock, us
  12. I used to race J/24's with one of these back in the 90's. IIRC, you set the bezel at 3 and 9 o'clock to be the headings for the start line. Then 12 o'clock is the wind direction for a true line (in the picture above this would be 0 degrees). Anything other than 12 o'clock represents the favored end of the line.
  13. Dan, I've removed my mast numerous times after hauling the boat and have only removed the thru-bolt #1. Used a crane to lift the mast each time. I'm sure either method will work.
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