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MichalD

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About MichalD

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  • Location
    Toronto
  • Interests
    Multihulls, cruising, building, racing

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  1. Here's a look at filling the bigger scratches with epoxy+microballoons (thick to prevent sagging). Using the razor worked well to knock almost all of the excess off. In the past I've had problems where the epoxy continued to shrink after being cut down while "green". I did make a mistake in one place, should be more careful. Also visible are little bubbles that had formed behind the leading edge. Perhaps moisture got in as I continued to use the foils with the scratches there? it would only have been a couple of weeks since the original pictures in this thread were taken. I end
  2. Cheers guys. The reason I originally wanted to avoid sanding as much as possible was to not modify the section of the foil - ie. to not F it up more as a result of "fixing" it. Bruno: yeah this is off the "FCT" entry level all in one setup (foil+mast+tail+fuselage). I can get up in ~15-20kn @ 200lb, 6'6" f-one rocket air, 1800 f-one phantom foil and 5m f-one strike. Highly recommend the strike over the ozone wasp v2 - it's like comparing a chef's knife with butter.
  3. With my trimaran land bound this summer after a botched daggerboard repair I've been keeping myself busy learning to wing foil. Unfortunately had a rock impact getting out (at low speed) which scratched up the leading edge. From what I understand the leading edge is critical. It looks like a fiberglass layup. Any ideas on how to repair? Any ideas on how to fill without following up with sanding? Cheers
  4. Interesting suggestion re s-glass. The plans called for a single layer inside, double layer outside. Perhaps it was more for abrasion resistance? The 2oz is very light. Like someone commented above it provides a nice surface finish and I've found it to be much more resistant to nicks than a layer of epoxy on bare wood.
  5. Hi @buehn, good to see you here! As discussed, I've attached your rather well put together instructions that I got as part of my "welcome to Sparky manual" from the previous owner =) I'm posting it here as documentation of my boat only, not suitable for any specific purpose, etc. Assembly: Mast Raising: Sailing: Cheers, Michal
  6. My concern with that approach is how to put down a fill layer to sand the hull fair? (ie. the sheet will fully cure before the tapes partially cure). Confirming rounded edges, although I guess it's tough to see:
  7. Any good reading to recommend on this type of stuff?
  8. Hey All, I'm building a stitch and glue dinghy/tender - it's a dixi dinghy with some of my own modifications one of which is adding a layer of 2oz fiberglass over the entire hull in addition to the 6oz tapes on the seams. I'm considering two ways of laminating these layers: Top Laminate the two 6oz tapes along the seams first with peel ply. Remove peel ply. Laminate the 2oz layer over the entire hull. After the epoxy hardness apply a fill layer to protect the fiberglass from sanding. Cons: 2oz "steps" down mechanical bond between 6oz tapes and 2oz sheet need
  9. Location? Blisters (screenshot below)?
  10. The saloon headroom is 192cm, which actually isn't bad but is just short of the 195 that I need to stand up straight. The broker was very friendly and got some video for me (sorry for the thread drift). Looked roughly like the pics minus rust on some of the stainless and blisters in the locker (said to be paint only but definitely worth a closer look).
  11. This crowther 42 has some cool features eg. "Frangible" foam in last foot of the dagger board (ie. The last foot is sacrificial), kick up rudders, retractable out boards, etc. I would be tempted if it had an inch more headroom (don't shoot =p) https://yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-catamarans/crowther-42/220967
  12. @Zonker is there an advantage for wood strip planking in that it's not isotropic? Ie. Does the grain running parallel to the hull make for a stiffer hull which bends less over time and thus becomes less tired? I dont know - just ideas that i hope others can validate. Brio looks like it has a foam deck which I would imagine addresses most of the problems with hardware through hulls, etc. Is your hesitation purely on resale value or do you think there's more chance if rot etc in a cedar core hull?
  13. Hi @TomP, I'm glad you've found some of the information here useful. The plywood plug has held up well. It stabilized that whole area but I think the load parallel to the aka (pushing the aka in) is mostly taken by the taper of the aka and not by the end plate itself. In my case the laminate was in decent condition, it was more the core that needed reinforcement. It will probably be a month or two before I have access to the boat. I can send pictures then of how the plug has held up to now. I would preemptively replace the forestay =) I had mine pop and heard a similar story from another
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