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MichalD

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Everything posted by MichalD

  1. My concern with that approach is how to put down a fill layer to sand the hull fair? (ie. the sheet will fully cure before the tapes partially cure). Confirming rounded edges, although I guess it's tough to see:
  2. Any good reading to recommend on this type of stuff?
  3. Hey All, I'm building a stitch and glue dinghy/tender - it's a dixi dinghy with some of my own modifications one of which is adding a layer of 2oz fiberglass over the entire hull in addition to the 6oz tapes on the seams. I'm considering two ways of laminating these layers: Top Laminate the two 6oz tapes along the seams first with peel ply. Remove peel ply. Laminate the 2oz layer over the entire hull. After the epoxy hardness apply a fill layer to protect the fiberglass from sanding. Cons: 2oz "steps" down mechanical bond between 6oz tapes and 2oz sheet need
  4. Location? Blisters (screenshot below)?
  5. The saloon headroom is 192cm, which actually isn't bad but is just short of the 195 that I need to stand up straight. The broker was very friendly and got some video for me (sorry for the thread drift). Looked roughly like the pics minus rust on some of the stainless and blisters in the locker (said to be paint only but definitely worth a closer look).
  6. This crowther 42 has some cool features eg. "Frangible" foam in last foot of the dagger board (ie. The last foot is sacrificial), kick up rudders, retractable out boards, etc. I would be tempted if it had an inch more headroom (don't shoot =p) https://yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-catamarans/crowther-42/220967
  7. @Zonker is there an advantage for wood strip planking in that it's not isotropic? Ie. Does the grain running parallel to the hull make for a stiffer hull which bends less over time and thus becomes less tired? I dont know - just ideas that i hope others can validate. Brio looks like it has a foam deck which I would imagine addresses most of the problems with hardware through hulls, etc. Is your hesitation purely on resale value or do you think there's more chance if rot etc in a cedar core hull?
  8. By this you mean drilling larger holes than required in the deck and filling with epoxy + high density filler and then drilling the right size hole in that? If it's something else do you have any links for further reading?
  9. Hi @TomP, I'm glad you've found some of the information here useful. The plywood plug has held up well. It stabilized that whole area but I think the load parallel to the aka (pushing the aka in) is mostly taken by the taper of the aka and not by the end plate itself. In my case the laminate was in decent condition, it was more the core that needed reinforcement. It will probably be a month or two before I have access to the boat. I can send pictures then of how the plug has held up to now. I would preemptively replace the forestay =) I had mine pop and heard a similar story from another
  10. MYC's 2 part interview with Ryan: https://www.facebook.com/groups/126451200728906/permalink/5194100113963964/?sfnsn=mo https://www.facebook.com/groups/126451200728906/permalink/5194105000630142/?sfnsn=mo
  11. My tohatsu 6 died coming in after the wind died. Pulled and cleaned the carb and all that crap, ended up being the spark plugs even though i scrubbed them clean (and they didnt look bad to being with). Easy things first.
  12. Mundt: that sounds like a practical solution, I like it! Waloo: great diagrams! I'm assuming that the light red line in the last pic is a rod with bearings top and bottom? Is the banana shape cutout required because of the motion of the tiller/rudder arms?
  13. Does anyone have pictures or a sketch of how the rudder linkage is setup beneath deck? Katchka (ex. Sparky) has the tiller running above deck just short of the traveller which is awkward during tacks. I was thinking of either retuning the linkage like the original design or raising the traveller to have the tiller pass through it. It would need to be a pretty beefy track for that though.
  14. Thanks for the suggestions! I'll try some of these techniques out. I tried to be mindful of the temperature not increasing. I did not wipe the plywood down with a lint cloth after sanding (when I tried that before it lifted a lot of half attached grain up). It seemed to get worse after the second coat.
  15. What am I doing wrong? Two layers of west 207 on bare okoume plywood and basswood. Applied with a west style yellow foam roller. Second layer went on when the first layer was still tacky but wouldn't peel when pressed with a gloved finger. The finish comes out very rough and takes a lot of sanding to smooth out. Any ideas? Sorry for the flipped pics..
  16. Ahh, much better =) cool project! How tall is the mast? Your sails sit pretty high off the deck. I'm thinking it would be useful to get the clew of my jib higher off the deck to better control twist going upwind. The slope of the deck is pretty radical. Right now I can either (1) move the car up to reduce twist but run the clew into the car too soon or (2) move the car back and spill out the top.
  17. That's because the forums already fucked you and stripped the exif metadata without rotating the image data.
  18. @carlwasher I had a chance to measure some of the rigging yesterday. The forestay is 3/16" stainless. The side stays are 3/8" dyneema.
  19. The broken image rotation has nothing to do with Apple products or Apple users. I suggest we move the image rotation discussion to the FAQ forum (linked below) where you will also see an explanation of the issue and an example from a Google android phone.
  20. To fix image rotation use https://www.onlineimagetool.com/en/rotate-png-jpg-webp-gif and select "auto" for rotation then upload the saved image. Images can have additional information stored in what's called the "exif metadata". The exif metadata can store rotation (eg. 0°, 90°, etc) in addition to the unrotated image pixel data. Sailing anarchy forums don't apply the exif metadata rotation (a bug in the software if that's the case). Another useful thing would be for them to automatically resize images down to a smaller size. The attached image was take with a Google Pixel 3 with
  21. @drivejunk images have additional information stored in what's called the "exif metadata". The exif metadata can store rotation (eg. 0°, 90°, etc) in addition to the unrotated image pixel data. Maybe sailing anarchy forums don't apply the exif metadata rotation (a bug in the software if that's the case). I just ran into the same problem elsewhere and found that you can fix the image before uploading using https://www.onlineimagetool.com/en/rotate-png-jpg-webp-gif just select "auto" for rotation.
  22. Dave has done a bunch of good work restoring his boat already which i think will be useful to take into account when improving our boats.
  23. Thanks for the reminder Pat. @carlwasher - just saw this thread. Great to see more boats getting together with so many close to lake Ontario. Let's do a meet up when covid is come and gone? My mast section is 4 3/32" x 6 1/2" with a wall thickness of 0.125". I need to check height. This is bigger than Dave's section from memory. I have more info at home that I can send out in the next couple of days. I see you already have your mast up but I can also document the process for katchka (x-sparky) when I get it in the water in the next week or two.
  24. All this talk reminded me of a time I went out sailing with my sister, her friend and my toddler son on the summer salt last year. As fathers do I forgot the milk bottle at home and grabbed a plastic wine glass from the TMCC club house. My sister knows the basics of sailing but she was never on a multihull or a sailboat larger than 14 ft. She steered under motor while I fed and got my son to sleep in the forward bunk. We got some sails up and quickly reefed down as we started feeling the gusts come in. The sea state got rough once we got out in the open water and my sister's friend didn't seem
  25. Also paranada - do you have any photos of the rudder linkage mechanism under the rear hatch?
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