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jamesmalcolm

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About jamesmalcolm

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  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Boats and boat things

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  1. I have some mast hardware that I need to move. The Genoa halyard cleats are too low and I am considering adding a lead block and cleat for the topping lift. This means six new holes drilled in a mast that already has a few old holes in it. Since they are all on the same 2 foot section, how many more can I add before I risk weakening the mast?
  2. I have a older J/24 rudder (not super old, its class minumum) with all the holes for the pintles in a straight line. It's in good shape, never been painted or damaged. A little chalky, but nothing polish wont fix. I have a boat with a new style rudder that has been painted with ablative paint. I have a more recent rudder in worse shape. I've heard when the holes are in straight lines they act like the perforations that make notebook paper easier to tear and the rudder can snap at those points. How much of a risk are they actually at for failure? Should I use the older nicer rudder or refurbish
  3. I was on a J24. The first race and the last two were pretty screwy. The wind was so shifty and the current was so strong we one tacked the windward mark, reached to the downwind mark with the spin up, doused, rounded, and the current was so strong we set on the way back to the upwind mark. The second race was worse, the RC used a small orange ball instead of a tetrohedrion for the course right gate. They radioed to "pretend it was an orange tet" but apparently half the fleet didn't hear, so half rounded it to starboard as a gate and the other half treated it as a single mark and rounded to por
  4. It's a gamble. Take a moisture meter if you can find one and scope out how bad the moisture is. Check everywhere, not just the bow. They're a little tricky to use (for me at least) but I'm sure there's a thread somewhere on this site on doing it properly. If it's just the foredeck and you have the time/money/patience to pour into it, why not.
  5. I'm assuming they hold up better than TPI boats as well? PS boats always seem to sell a bit higher than TPI boats of the same year.
  6. This sounds like that story of that Russian man who was offered a credit card by his bank. He removed the spending limit, monthly payments, and changed the interest rate to zero and sent it back to the banker. The banker signed it without reading the documents and when the bank discovered the mistake, they took the man to court and lost. It was the bank's fault for not reading the contract, but it was an underhanded thing to do by the Russian. I'm willing to bet a fair chunk of change that this particular broker won't leave a document unread again. https://www.themoscowtimes.com/20
  7. That core looks drilled but the skin looks intact. How is that?
  8. Thanks for posting the great images. Is it worth resealing all of the deck hardware like this or just what is on the areas of core I'm replacing?
  9. I found a foam that is the same density as balsa and if the class measurer in my fleet doesn't object I will use it over balsa. The only potential issue is shaping it to the areas of the deck that aren't flat, but the wet sections should be small enough and the curve of the deck gradual enough that it doesn't matter.
  10. You're right. I had a friend take a moisture meter to the deck and the core is wet around and downhill of hardware that was removed and improperly sealed by the previous owner. What is counter sinking? If I've already backfilled and redrilled the epoxy do I still need to seal the hardware because water won't get through the epoxy anyways? (Of course I will reseal regardless but I'm just wondering what if.)
  11. It's about 50 lbs over weight. Class rules say the replacement material must be as close as possible to the original but I don't know how much the original weighed and I want something that won't absorb water in the future. Divinycell looks like a great option because I can choose the density. Thanks all.
  12. I have yet another J24 with wet core. I have read the West systems guides and plenty of threads on this forum and others and they have all been very helpful. The only thing I'm not sure about is what to replace the wet core with. My boat was built in 1988 and was cored with balsa. Should I replace it with balsa or something else? I would like to use something that won't absorb water in the future. My boat is a little heavier than class minimums so something lighter than the original core would help get the boat down to weight. Any input would be great.
  13. It's more like castling to the wrong side of the board. When a pro does something wrong, someone new may not be confident enough in their knowledge of the rules to stop them. It may just be me but there is a reluctance to protest among many sailors because they see protests as these big important events that should be a last resort when the rules are broken instead of the first one, and only used in very serious situation. There would be more self-enforcement in sailing if protests were viewed as routine events that weren't worth writing home about.
  14. I sail in a Wednesday night fleet where "no flag no foul" has descended into "no contact no foul." The only protests that ever make it to the protest room are the ones where boats have serious damage or where the 1st place glasses are at stake. Newer sailors aren't comfortable because they don't think it's worth it or they don't see a big difference between eighth and ninth place in a ten boat fleet. That's fair, but as those sailors climb the ladder and become more experienced they hold on to that reluctance to protest. "Protest"at my yacht club have become a dirty word among many. There is a
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