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Everything posted by jamesmalcolm

  1. I was on a J24. The first race and the last two were pretty screwy. The wind was so shifty and the current was so strong we one tacked the windward mark, reached to the downwind mark with the spin up, doused, rounded, and the current was so strong we set on the way back to the upwind mark. The second race was worse, the RC used a small orange ball instead of a tetrohedrion for the course right gate. They radioed to "pretend it was an orange tet" but apparently half the fleet didn't hear, so half rounded it to starboard as a gate and the other half treated it as a single mark and rounded to por
  2. It's a gamble. Take a moisture meter if you can find one and scope out how bad the moisture is. Check everywhere, not just the bow. They're a little tricky to use (for me at least) but I'm sure there's a thread somewhere on this site on doing it properly. If it's just the foredeck and you have the time/money/patience to pour into it, why not.
  3. I'm assuming they hold up better than TPI boats as well? PS boats always seem to sell a bit higher than TPI boats of the same year.
  4. This sounds like that story of that Russian man who was offered a credit card by his bank. He removed the spending limit, monthly payments, and changed the interest rate to zero and sent it back to the banker. The banker signed it without reading the documents and when the bank discovered the mistake, they took the man to court and lost. It was the bank's fault for not reading the contract, but it was an underhanded thing to do by the Russian. I'm willing to bet a fair chunk of change that this particular broker won't leave a document unread again. https://www.themoscowtimes.com/20
  5. That core looks drilled but the skin looks intact. How is that?
  6. Thanks for posting the great images. Is it worth resealing all of the deck hardware like this or just what is on the areas of core I'm replacing?
  7. I found a foam that is the same density as balsa and if the class measurer in my fleet doesn't object I will use it over balsa. The only potential issue is shaping it to the areas of the deck that aren't flat, but the wet sections should be small enough and the curve of the deck gradual enough that it doesn't matter.
  8. You're right. I had a friend take a moisture meter to the deck and the core is wet around and downhill of hardware that was removed and improperly sealed by the previous owner. What is counter sinking? If I've already backfilled and redrilled the epoxy do I still need to seal the hardware because water won't get through the epoxy anyways? (Of course I will reseal regardless but I'm just wondering what if.)
  9. It's about 50 lbs over weight. Class rules say the replacement material must be as close as possible to the original but I don't know how much the original weighed and I want something that won't absorb water in the future. Divinycell looks like a great option because I can choose the density. Thanks all.
  10. I have yet another J24 with wet core. I have read the West systems guides and plenty of threads on this forum and others and they have all been very helpful. The only thing I'm not sure about is what to replace the wet core with. My boat was built in 1988 and was cored with balsa. Should I replace it with balsa or something else? I would like to use something that won't absorb water in the future. My boat is a little heavier than class minimums so something lighter than the original core would help get the boat down to weight. Any input would be great.
  11. It's more like castling to the wrong side of the board. When a pro does something wrong, someone new may not be confident enough in their knowledge of the rules to stop them. It may just be me but there is a reluctance to protest among many sailors because they see protests as these big important events that should be a last resort when the rules are broken instead of the first one, and only used in very serious situation. There would be more self-enforcement in sailing if protests were viewed as routine events that weren't worth writing home about.
  12. I sail in a Wednesday night fleet where "no flag no foul" has descended into "no contact no foul." The only protests that ever make it to the protest room are the ones where boats have serious damage or where the 1st place glasses are at stake. Newer sailors aren't comfortable because they don't think it's worth it or they don't see a big difference between eighth and ninth place in a ten boat fleet. That's fair, but as those sailors climb the ladder and become more experienced they hold on to that reluctance to protest. "Protest"at my yacht club have become a dirty word among many. There is a
  13. Is there any difference between the 2500 or so Tillotson-Pearson made J/24s and the 500 Performance Sailcraft J/24s or are they both generally the same? What is the difference between an American made J/24 vs and Italian or Argentinian one?
  14. True, but I think the object isn’t necessarily speed, the object is to foil
  15. If I start cutting holes I think I'll do more harm than good.
  16. I have a 1990 OD 14 made by Ontario Yachts. It has the old style daggerboard trunk. I have some raw materials and plenty of time on my hands and want to see if I can get it to foil. The boat weighs about 170 lbs dry and the combined crew weight will be just short of 300 lbs, bringing the grand total to 470 lbs. I've read Nacras weigh 310 lbs without crew, but those foils are far more efficient than what I will be able to make. I know it won't be easy, but could I make this foil? If so, I want to try making t-foils to replace the daggerboard and rudder. The daggerboard trunk is big enough that
  17. I've heard if you get it done right painting the bottom can make you faster. I think there's a technicality in the Class Rules that say you can't fair the hull, but if you paint you can fair the paint. I saw Africa the year after it won J/70 Worlds and it had a painted bottom. I've never left a boat on a mooring but if you get a good paint job and are on a lake you should be fine.
  18. I'm on crack? All you have to do is spray it with fresh water and oil it. My team's has been through the ringer and it's still chugging along. Besides, everything works fine 'till race day. It's the law of the sea. You never miss that one specific thing until it's too late to go back to the dock.
  19. Are you sure the decimal place is supposed to be there in 3.5? I need whatever version of seafoam you have.
  20. The Leur propane motors are pretty trouble free, the problem is you never know how full the coleman propane canisters are.
  21. I managed to find an old boat used as a parts boat that still had the Grand Prix rig and sails. Between the parts boat and the one I had originally I have a fully floating, sailing boat. It's sitting on the dock keeping me from going nuts in quarantine. Thanks all for the info.
  22. All public boat ramp, beach, river, and lake access has been ended in S.C. This is only a problem because I have a sailboat slowly sinking on the dock and a closed public ramp 500 yds downriver.
  23. The more and more if this thread I read the more this looks like an economical solution. The Flex Seal Family of Products has saved my own p.o.s. on one occasion, but at least mine actually had sails.
  24. If it's going to be a daysailer look for something with the running lights still installed. Most boats pulled off all of the lights and wires. If I remember correctly the top 6 inches of the keel (the Johnstone Bump) is fiberglass and part of the hull. You might end up with a shorter keel than expected.
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