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26 Suckup

About brucephenry

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA, USA
  • Interests
    Rum, sailing, rum, skiing, rum.

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  1. If you’re trimming your stocks like they’re trimming their sails...
  2. That’d be awesome. What’s their contact info?
  3. Cleaning out the garage I found a new (in box) black trampoline and lacing kit for a nacra 5.2. Paid ~$500 Tenara thread Velcro pocket Bar cover https://multihullnets.com/Prices/Nets/StockBeachCat/bcDetails.aspx?PartNumber=N-5.2OBC Make me an offer I can’t refuse. It’d be a shame to send it to the dump.
  4. Holy crap! I just stumbled across page 17 in that manual... and the table at the bottom of the page that shows all of the solder connections to turn a TP10 into a TP20. (Well, that and a cable.)
  5. Also, for reference here is the TP10-20-30 maintenance manual (pretty near the same as your TP32). Sourced from https://media.schoonerchandlery.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/21202305/01-TP10-20.pdf Simrad-TP10-20-30.pdf
  6. Put oil pads under the engine in the bilge (because things go wrong). Now would be a good time to change your oil filter, check your racor, check your belts, check the level in the transmission, and check your batteries (water level in each cell). If you’re using a suction can, run the engine up to operating temperature before starting the suckage. Otherwise the suckage will suck less, which sucks more.
  7. Cycle your through hulls! Check ATF levels in dripless shaft seals.
  8. I’m a big fan of Boeshield for this kind of thing.
  9. The dynamic loads on a main sheet can be truly staggering in a gybe (even an intentional one). That’s a fairly small boat, and I gotta believe you’re probably day sailing rather than crossing the Southern Ocean. So you’re probably okay. But… That whole thing I said about dynamic loads… to lessen those loads you should use a stretchy line. Not core dependent, not dyneema/spectra/vectran, something cheap and springy. If you go this route I’d love to hear how it works.
  10. West Systems says the shelf life is practically unlimited. I’ve used stuff as old as 10 years and it kicked off just fine. If it has been super cold there may be some crystals formed. If so, just warm it up to ~50C (125F) and hold it there until the crystals dissolve.
  11. Like @Bump-n-Grind said, I’d look at moving it back to in front of the companionway. This has a bunch of loading advantages due to the lessened angle as well as moving the attachment point on the boom forward thereby giving you more travel out of your traveler. While it seems like a PITA place to have a traveler, in practice I’ve found that when motoring or at dock/anchor the traveler just gets set all the way outboard and you simply step through. The bolts will be in an out of the way place that is still easily accessible for maintenance. Hell, you may even be able to mount them by yourself i
  12. Harken grip tape. Works great. Peels off clean. I know you are not looking for tape, but seriously this stuff is pretty good.
  13. I’ve never understood it either. But I still do it because over time varnishing makes one a superstitious bastard.
  14. THIS!!! This is friggin' GENIUS level solutioning. I cannot describe to you how happy this solution makes me. I have no place to mount a tiller comb, but this... I've already got all the tiller pilot holes and such.
  15. I am tired of not being able to lock off my tiller the way one can lock off wheel steering. So, what I'm thinking is to cut a ~2" long slot in the fiberglass housing for the rudder post and then put a bracket around that with a knob and screw to tighten down around the rudder post. That way I can lock it off in any position I want (like when at anchor and eating dinner in the cockpit, or when on a beam reach and the boat is well balanced and I just need to step below to get my damn sunglasses). Am I crazy? Is this a dumb idea? Is there a better way? That white outer tube appears to b
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