Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Suckup

About penumbra

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    WLIS (ish)
  • Interests
    On my boat I'm the captain. On your boat I'm the crew. When someone asks, I'm a yachtsman.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. +1. On a raw water cooled engine, you either need to pull the thermostat or get it hot. There is an option of pulling the thermostat and using a strong electric pump, if you're uncomfortable about running the motor on the stands or it won't run. On my Atomic 4, which was raw cooled, I would run it on the stands to get it hot and introduce the coolant. In my opinion, the best procedure for that is to head all the way over to conventional engine coolant. I built a closed loop rig for the A4 to both get it hot and get the green stuff in the works. It has anti-corrosive additives and ot
  2. Time for new bearings. We had the same thing. Took it apart, broke out the calipers (after ordering the wrong ones twice), ordered bearings from Jeff Bezos and dropped them in. 15 min / $20 project and totally worth it.
  3. Kind of shocked the brain trust didn't already highlight a youtube flesh pusher's prior efforts on the topic:
  4. New Jersey has an interesting requirement where a license is required on inland waters and a semi-voluntary safety certificate for salt water. As I recall, there was an in person class component which I avoided by showing an MD boating license when I moved to NJ, from Michigan, oddly enough. Michigan also has a requirement for operators born after '96 or something. Generally, my experience is the police do not care as long you are not a resident of their state, have a legally registered boat that does not look like a POS and isn't being operated foolishly.
  5. I love the assumption NYYC members are the bank. The vast majority of members I know are working stiffs, white collar but swinging the proverbial hammer. Those I know don't have Tartan 10 money to toss around, much less IC37 coin. While I get non-members presume NYYC folks all have deep pockets, the even funnier version exists internally. The club has been trying desperately to get younger members to field a 37. It's hard to drop the cash, commit to the logistics of managing crew and take the time to be competitive when you're grinding at a law firm/hustling in tech/moving street level ph
  6. Two of the boats I race on, a J112e and an IMX-45 have gone the Dutchman route. The IMX only for the cruising main. The J112e has it for the racing main as well. It is really really slick, as compared to the setup on my Sweden 42: full batten, lazy jacks, Selden batt-car, stack-pack. I've double handed the IMX more than I care to admit with my wife. The main is a freaking beast and all reports on the Dutchman are positive. He doublehanded the thing back in the day with his wife and two small kids on it. He only had superlatives to say about the improvement for cruising. I'm not quit
  7. For a scant $500, Mr Perry will answer your emails and phone calls on the details. A worthy service I have used myself. His web site has the particulars. He's very open about the history on his designs and where compromises were made as well as comparisons to others.
  8. I've had good luck with JB Weld. I feel like it stays a little flexible instead of being hard and brittle like epoxy.
  9. I've been watching this thread with interest. We've done this and highly recommend it. We are NYC-ish based and have had our boats everywhere from Charleston to Maine. There are many great suggestions here, but the ones that aren't Annapolis are suboptimal, in my opinion, and there is more to consider. First, the weather isn't that much better for Sept/Oct. We've done fall a couple times and the time we wintered over, we didn't get to enjoy spring because of COVID. But, anchoring in Manhasset Bay is as nice as most of the Bay spots. Then, if you're looking to return to NYC on the early en
  10. It really depends on what you want. There are no traditional, member owned clubs on the harbor (that I know of). There are such things in any direction: are up the river, City Island, Sheepshead Bay, or Raritan Bay. The local offerings are mostly sailing schools with "clubs" to get access to their boats. As noted above, there are also plenty of for-profit marinas around.
  11. We have the Selden setup on a Code 0. You need a wicked amount of luff tension to get them to point, which is the awesomeness of the code. A 1:1 hal puts a lot of load on the masthead sheave. Selden recommended the 2:1 hal both to get the necessary tension and to reduce load on the sheave. However, the setup is the devil. On a 2:1 main halyard, the shackle can't twist on the way up. If it's clean when plugged in, it will stay clean on the hoist. The Code has a swivel at the top. Whether you drop the hal on the winch, it will induce twist in the line. Either due to black magic, Loki the tr
  12. A 1/4" bolt works in a pinch, too. I second Zonker's comment. Pull the plug off on the port (I think?) side of the unit. You should find a pin traveling down, a shaft going up and a little linkage in between. If they are disconnected, put a string around the shaft to help bring it together.
  13. I've been messing with my Tohatsu's for a bit with mixed results. In the past, I had the Tohatsu 3.5 2 stroke and just switching to a metal prop from the plastic adding 10-15% of speed - similar setup with an AB 9 Al RIB. I think the flex in the prop was enough to limit it. But, that was enough for a big guy and his dog to plane. I now have the tohatsu/merc 3.5 4 stroke and went up to the carb/prop from a 5 (ReadySetBoat has a kit). The carb change was garbage. Drank fuel, had a lot of problems with leaky gaskets (turns out an off-brand gasket is much easier to align) and the idle was so
  14. Hello hive mind, We have a Mastervolt 28/80 (24v 80amp) alternator for our house bank connected through a Mastervolt Alpha Pro controller. Previously, it has been rock solid and no issues. This weekend, we're seeing a weird behavior where the controller attempts to fire up the alternator, then shuts off and repeats. It isn't on every startup, but maybe every few. Changing engine revs doesn't make a difference. I, unwisely, didn't check the indicator lights, though reading the Mastervolt manual offers little insights. Any suggestions on what might be up?
  15. This should pretty much match what you find if you were to look at the Eldridge tables and graphics. As far as I can tell, all of the other manufacturers (Navionics, etc) are using the same data source - NOAA, which has limited forecast locations and published max ebb/flood and slack times with flow. Heavy rain, storms, etc can throw the numbers off dramatically. But, what you're suggesting is common - time and tide waits for no man, as they say. Sometimes you have to suck it up if you want performance.
  • Create New...