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IanA.

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About IanA.

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  • Birthday 12/04/1989

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    Amsterdam

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  1. Typically Nacra do use Monel rivets in both the carbon and alloy rigs but maybe for the N15 they tried to save some money... Have you contacted either the dealer you bought the boat through or Nacra directly? I'm pretty sure they would tell you what it is to be sure. Maybe even claim warranty if it was manufacturer error. If you're not worried about staying one-design, consider upgrading to this https://www.harken.com/en/shop/carbo-air-blocks-291/40-mm-pivoting-lead-block-cam-matic-cleat/ The PXRs tend to be fidgety and the spacing between fasteners holes is much closer together an
  2. Cool boat! Looks like a trim tab on the keel? Lots of nice rigging and setup solutions there. Curious what she weighs..
  3. Started on templating the new companionway steps. We're able to re-purpose the foam cutouts from the watertight hatches around the keel box which is nice. And these are already doubled up in thickness which I want in this case. I still haven't thought out how I want to cut the bevel for the angled side bits. I don't want to give up much more material on the width as i'm already at the minimum for what feels safe coming in and out. I'll pre laminate the steps once the shape is set. Then tack the whole thing together with some fast methacrylate to get all the angles/positions right.
  4. Some more primer finally showed up so I was able to finish of the "main saloon/ galley area". It was a pian getting into all the little cubbies but much nicer to have it in white then dark gray in these already dark corners of the boat. Managed to get the hatch cutouts bonded in as well. Admittingly looks a bit sloppy in the picture but there's a bit of unevenness between the new and old surfaces which the glue is helping to fill around the edges. THe whole thing will get faired in and flattened out. I'm also thinking about the engine box... I
  5. Consider sourcing a second mast to convert for the DS and keep the existing in one-design form? How many times a month/year do you plan on changing setups?
  6. The panels for the new watertight hatches were laminated and then the opening cut out. Will glue in place with trusty pro-set adv175 and then tab in underneath only light biax tape. Top will just get faired to blend into the rest of the top keel structure. Then I can get on with primer/painting here... It sure will look a lot beter then it does now.
  7. Takes notes as you wish but by no means believe what I say or do is actually the best thing for you. I'm constantly tip-toeing between best practices and minimizing costs/time when tackling each job. There are a few areas where I could have achieved a higher level with either more time or funds poured in. Finding the line of what's going to be good enough while keeping in mind the big picture of 'deadlines and budget' is really more of an artform than it seems. Having said all that, the most important thing to do is to clearly and simply as possible define your main goals and
  8. I've got the new 12v switches and a few other bits ordered finally so its time to sort out the new nav panel. It was just a solid piece of plywood before which meant you had to remove the DC panel to get inside which was annoying. I cut it all out and replacing with a lighter carbon/foam panel with plastic hinges so its easy to get behind. I used a flat acetal plate and some car batteries on-top to get some downward force. It didn't seem necessary to waste bagging material on this. It fact its basically built entirely from my scrap pile. Was a bit chilly in the garage since I moved
  9. I started with with 545 as a base in all the high traffic areas and then going with the Signma S2U Nova primer and Satin top coat. The 545 probably isn't necessary but I have a bunch still in stock so might as well use it. I really like the Sigma primer so far, rolls out super well and has impressive coverage. Its expensive for house paint but cheap for marine paint. Time will tell.
  10. Not sure how rubbery your stuff is, maybe try scraping first. Might gum up your paper especially as it heats up. Or also consider chemical striping as much as you can first. For me the Rupes is my go to for material removal. I have an older version than this one but they are powerful as hell and will shake your teeth out. You really have to handle one to understand how crazy powerful these things are. The pad size is perfect for fairing both flats and curves. Overhead work with it will punish your upper body somewhat but still prefer it then my Makita R/O because of the time
  11. I re-did a 14ft. pole recently using the 2k Spraymax cans in clear (after successfully re-spraying my whole deck with the same system in white). I used 3 standard size cans to get 4 coats. I think spending the time on a epoxy undercoat is only necessary if your bare carbon is in really rough shape. In my case, I took it down to 400 and the bond seems solid enough and its held up already one summer season of solid cruising.
  12. And so it begins. The interior portion had started. Made a bucket load of dust today and getting things smoothed out. It all looks horrible and messy, some white 545 will add some charm back pretty quickly. Have a few more days of knuckling down with the various sanding equipment and then I should be able to move on to the fun parts again like gluing and installing stuff. I also removed the companionway steps to make a bit more space for sanding. I always assumed it was just thin hollow steel tubing. I told myself we wouldn't replace these just yet since it shouldn't be super heavy
  13. Speaking of icy water, first proper freeze of the winter. Found it interesting to see the kerf lines from the deck core transfer through to the snow like that. The little heater inside is keeping things reasonable and the resin linking the 2 skins is transfer just enough heat to melt along the lines slightly. At least the kiwi grip wasn't half bad keeping me on deck while walking around.
  14. If you look at the reflection in the icy water you can see the knuckle overhang and the height of the painted water-line above the floating water-line. And that's with my 85kgs. up there in the first photo. The bow is a bit higher then the stern currently but that is sort of accounted for since the rig isn't in yet. In theory it should all be parallel in racing trim.
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