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124 F'n Saint

About IanA.

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  • Birthday 12/04/1989

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  1. I’m using VCtar2 Its just an epoxy barrier coat of many to choose from. This is what’s recommended to use with VC anti fouling. In my case we will be using VC17M Extra so I prefer going with manufacturer recommendations. On other boats we have used interprotect2000e(it has micro-plates) with VC offshore with good success.
  2. And in less exciting news, the output shaft from the saildrive tried to end its own life by taking a headfirst dive off the bench today. It should be salvageable and luckily I have a guy who can fix this but still a bit annoying..
  3. Decided to give it another go with high-build. Not really keen about the extra time and costs but there were a few to many low spots for me to sleep at night. Should have the barrier coat on next week which means I need to make a decision for the topsides. We we planned on a wrap job, the local guy here is fairly reasonable and the quality seems okay. The other option is to have this paint shed take care of it which will cost more but also just get it done and out of the way. We will think abut it over the weekend I guess.
  4. Smoothing her out and then we start spraying the vc-tar. Will need to level her out a bit better before we can get a laser to dictate the new waterline. Onwards and upwards.
  5. I've finally got the mast base in the house. I still might make some tweaks but this is essentially what its going to be. What I haven't decided is if the mast heel would sit on this base when jack pressure is fully released or something else. If it would sit on top then I would cut off the upper ring so the alloy heel doesn't get damaged and has a flattish surface to bear against. The ring is only there as a safety for the mast jumping out of the pocket but I can't figure out how that could ever happen. Once I'm happy, it will get a bit of an acid cleaning and then some paint.
  6. Some new underwater bling arrived from our Danish/Italian friends. Don't know why this makes me so happy. Honestly, having a diesel inboard and saildrive hanging out the bottom does bother me. It goes against Jim Young's design philosophy for these boats and the typical kiwi mindset for sportiest. For us to be compliant with the racing we will be doing in the North sea and beyond, we have to drag around the extra weight of the inboard. Now at least I will sleep better knowing we've reduced on an area of major hydro drag. I guess she won't stay shiny long once she's got he
  7. What are you usually building? I can tell you that I'm really not worried about material thickness limitations for my purpose. For sure, the the manual will always recommend the safest practices for the machine. You have to remember that these machines are built for factories, to run in 3 shifts, non-stop 24 hours a day making undies or whatever. In that case you don't want to exceed the design tolerances. At that rate, you will start to damage something. For me, and you and the rest of us, we will not be running that many miles of seams each day. It seems that the un
  8. Im currently running 1:1 but the dealers I bought it though carry the smaller wheels in stock if I wanted to go down 2:1. Personally the force on this machine is more then enough for my work. Again this is DIY wannabe sail making, I’m not running a sweatshop here. The control box is limiting to max 2000rpm on the motor and definitely goes down to 10 which is obnoxiously slow but probably handy for fine detail work. The lack of a walking foot doesn’t bother me the slightest. The sailrite does not have a triple step option let alone quad- step which is important for my needs. The Adler
  9. Wild Thing is definitely really cool! The mid-boom sheeting is a funny work around for the stern hung rudder though. I really would love the articulating bowsprit exactly like that on our boat. We won't ever get light enough to run in lighter air with Asyms on centerline properly and would need to go to Symmetrical kites. I'm planning for both options with the rig so it can be interchangeable depending on what sailing we're doing. I really don't need more projects added to the list but now you've got me thinking about some things...
  10. This is on the higher end for what most home DIY sailmakers need and on the higher end then what we were planning for. It's the Adler 525i-811 https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/products/shoes_FB_ZZ/525i-811.html There are a couple variations of the 525i for different work requirements. The -811 is the most basic in the range. I had been searching high and low for the perfect machine. We need to build some new sails for our boat as well as some canvas work and a few other projects the wife is working on. The 525i is awesome because it has inte
  11. Also picked up a good used Adler 525i which does, straight, zig-zag and triple step which pretty much covers us for most of what we will need to do. I'm not sure yet how many sails we will make our selves yet but for sure we will slap together a few in the beginning as well as covers and other canvas work needed.
  12. I've been working to get all the hardware(for mast and deck) organized and setup including the correct fasteners. This is to try and reduce as much time as possible for when it comes time to mount everything. Also, anything I can do ahead of time with regards to passivation is being done using a combination of T9 boeshield, tef-gel and green duralac depending on the requirement.
  13. Sorry for the long period of silence! Have had a bit on and this virus and lockdown have not been helping at all. Also its been a bit cold for a while which has me spending too much time in the shed at the moment. Quietly though, things have been happening in small steps. I should have the bottom faired and barrier coated over the next few weeks. Will wait on the antifoul until we are actually close to getting wet. One the new water-line is established. I can have the vinyl guys come in and sort out the topsides once on for all. At home, I've been working on the mast layout design and fi
  14. Nacra was supplying swilling PXR's(as you see in their rigging videos) as standard out of the factory and there is a reason all the top teams were changing the out to the harken swivel cleat setup immediately. For my team's Olympic boat, we used thin plastic mylar sheets cut into strips and built the height up underneath the cleat base until the down angle was just right for the helm to release from low wire. It will vary depending on the height of the driver, arm length and arm strength(arm day, every day). So just tweak it until you find the right setup for you. Also ditch the robline
  15. Kiwi grip is awesome, thin with water as needed to slow the cure time in high heat environments and to give the peaks enough time to soften. Was probably the easiest part of my refit..
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