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15 Whiner

About allweather

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    all things sailing

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  1. Little update on my part since unexpectedly it was a sunny but calm day. The following were your measurements with the 1005T, correct? Knots Watts 4.0 810w 3.0 400w 2.0 110w Corresponding my motor seems quite a bit less efficient. Still within an acceptable range but notable. Knots Watts 4.0 1100w 3.0 500w 2.0 170w
  2. Yeah, advantage of diy is that at the cost of sealing and warranty I get away with quite a bit less mass. A tradeoff that has to prove itself. I am confident however since I chatted with some folks who have been using similar setups for a few years with no noticable issues. Stability I noticed no issues or impact what so ever. Which makes sense considering it is placed just at the waterline or slightly below. Trim is a different question however. Compared to the boat with no added gear(i.e. no outboard hanging off the stern) adding the batteries does cause the stern to sink noticab
  3. Seems like I never took a pic of the finished install. Its behind the storage bin(bin now pulled further forwards by about 25cm. Just under the step) Build a 6,7kWh battery from 8 280Ah lifepo4 cells.(generic alluminum case) So running the system and motor at 24V and having a converter for the 12V loads.(eliminates the old lead acid and seperate charger below the v berth) Mainly opted for 24V since the peripherals and battery are cheaper. Comparing your numbers is something I am looking forward to! By now I barely covered a mile and most of that was playing around at low speed to te
  4. Lighting was fairly bad on account of a looming cloudburst but things should be recognizable? The shaft is a sliding/telescoping one with the fixed portion just touching the water and the prop ending up about 30cm below the surface. Could go a bit deeper extension wise but i don‘t see any benefits at that point(as is no surface movement due to prop turning) and I want to limit torque on the assembly. Turning the motor is a bit jerky due to a building mistake, hence working prototype, but still allows me to turn on the spot. Notable that the prop really does not like to turn ba
  5. Fingers crossed on that. From your reports they seem to be cautious in stating delivery dates but actually quite fast. Though the habit of forgetting some parts in packaging remains one where the company laggs behind some of the higher end ones. Good to know europe isn‘t the only one with some crazy weather right now. If only it stayed nice a week longer I could have completed varnishing. Now it is below deck work or nothing as I had to brush of some snow/ice topside. Motor works nicely though. Pretty happy with what I consider a prototype. (This thread and the general electr
  6. That would be somewhat annoying. On the other hand having everything but the controller installed and the boat in the water just waiting to plug it in and play? Then again testing on the dry just in case of any unforseen malfunction is important. Imagine for some reason the pod not working while the hull is in the water... how are conditions in your area now anyway? I jumped the gun and went in early. Had a few very nice, downright hot, days too. The last few then had storm winds and literally sunshine and hail storms(1cm of ice on occasion) every other hour.
  7. Small update, got the new unit and already installed. Now works as it should and that is that. At 20 euro it doesn‘t even cost half of the victron equivalent. Though there are also hints at where the difference comes from in part at least. Cables are thinner at 2,5mm^2 instead of four and of course only 20cm instead of the closer to two that come with the victron one. Area isn‘t too small for the amps put through(made the extension from four/six though) but does make me wonder about internal components quality. It works for now and if I need to replace it a little earlier tha
  8. Never tried that either. My only boots with an inner are for snowboarding. While bomb proof not exactly flexible Normal shoes and waterproof socks worked for me in a bind, but not exactly what I‘m aiming for long term either. As is I‘m going to place some orders and hopefully can report some findings in a week or two.
  9. Sorry, already packed up the unit and send the package. But I did check for conductivity beforehand and it was low(one ohm or so) resistance. As for tinkering. I like that too but lack in expertise here. Plus thenunit itself is potted. So not much I can do there. At least not with any worth it amount of work when I can get an off brand unit with the same specs(enclosure and all) for 20 bucks. That was my intent. Return to the seller and see if they still do replace it even though I am out of the standard period due to the unit lying on my storage shelf until I put it together.
  10. Okay, pulled out the converter and brought it home. Much nicer to test on another battery on the table than in the crawlspace. Without fail output voltage(open circuit) raises to 5,4V and stays there. Ordered a noname replacement unit(looks exactly the same, so a repainted knockoff) for now. Probably going to send in the victron orion and see if I can get it replaced. But I bought it two months ago and had it in storage until now so who knows... first time I had an issue with the „blue stuff.“ victron charger, battery monitor and a solar controller all worked perfectly in the p
  11. I‘ve installed a 24V Lifepo4 battery in my boat and intended to use the Victron Orion ip67 24/12-20 to power all my 12V gear but have run into problems with it that I have no idea where to start with. After connecting input and outputs to the respective bus bar. The 24V one being connected to the batteries, charger(Victron blue smart ip67 24/12) and a motor. The 12V having a number of lights(Led and otherwise), usb sockets, autopilot and the like. Now when turning on the main switch none of my 12V appliances work. (24V side has no issues as expected) Measuring outp
  12. Seriously though, I always end up with some perspiration. Even when cold! Not swearing buckets but still enough that I prefer a little more breathability. Kind of like with normal goretex type jackets when you just winched up a main in heavy rain?
  13. Zhik seaboot is something I should be able to try. And not ultra expensive either! Though the shape does not look too promising. Sorrels do look nice to wear. As you said though, not eaterproof and specifically what I want. (H-boat easily sails wet) Waterproof socks help some but can be a bit annoying too. For dinghy/wet sailing I‘ve taken to xcel‘s. Pretty wide towards the toes(barely narrowing at all.) bit again not exactly the best option for hours of sitting in the cockpit. Or crawling in and out of the boots at night during short(1-2 days) races. Thanks for the responses
  14. After some issues with foot pain last year I have been revamping most of my daily shoes to more "healthy" choices after the doctor pointed out that the narrowness excerbated my problems and generally should be fixed. In the course of that I learned that I have really, really wide feet. Think big foot or hobbit I suppose. Main concern is that even the ones advertised as extra wide narrow forward of the ball of the foot and my toes don't. Point is I struggle with finding well fitting sea boots under the new criteria and am asking for any options? I don't need them to be extremely w
  15. I encountered that too. When stuck with the head in there it is easy to miss how much the hull rises and moves in in the area. Good to see the progress you're making!
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