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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Look what I found in my mast today, I wasn't even looking for it! I do check for cracks and the like fairly regularly and do replace backing plates as required. This one though? Looked perfectly fine with no damage from the outside.(the last three plates I replaced had cracking around the hole) I removed it for an unrelated reason this weekend only to pull out a bent piece of metal barely still held together. Can't see that from the outside short of using an endoscopic camera or some very clever mirror and penlight attachment, maybe. Well, everything is new now and it was the
  2. Arguably since such examples probably wouldn't leave their couch otherwise... or the comfy car seat, so riding a bicycle, even assisted one, is marginally more engaging... Though whenever one blasts past me uphill I may be a bit peeved on my roadbike. Actually I wouldn't care, if not for them then slowing to a crawl and blocking the cycle path come next corner/intersection. To be fair to my Suzuki four stroke, it ran basically without issue for the years(I don't know 5-6? of using it once a week for months and then a week through). I did have issues last year that need to be diagn
  3. Isn‘t that just because dyneema is white, then colored and that‘s what is getting sun bleached? Whereas UV as I understand it becomes visible through the rope getting really fuzzy.
  4. Go me, missing the very visible link you had already posted... Thank you for pointing that out and relinking. Interesting that I do find the two grades of fabrics as you've mentioned, but getting the greater strength one in the right weight is going to take some more searching here. Anyway, thanks for the tech talk and now back to boat building.
  5. This is what I meant, I couldn‘t quite match your numbers to those I had found for other fabrics. Specifically since tensile strength and stiffness are both measured in Pascal, and then there are the numbers for finished laminate at given fiber/epoxy ratio. Anyway, in that case I‘ll do some specific hunting to find basalt with the strength relative carbon you quoted now that I better know which you meant. As far as stiffness goes I‘ve only seen 10-20% or so greater than eglass and not near carbon‘s over twice as stiff as either! So that was where my initial confusion came from. (Edi
  6. Looking at some data sheets I realized I have no idea how to read them... When you say 480 MPa, is that tensile strength or something else?
  7. Thank you for your insight Julian, I had not run the numbers for the foam and missed why you'd be fine with slightly lower vacuum. Makes sense now that you put it in relation with what you have(imperial unit wizardry or not) I need to see if that epoxy is available in my area, or something equivalent to it.(well, and just check the jugs I have right now) Last project I messed up ventilation and was somewhat miserable the next day... Also, always like to hear about any tricks when it comes to reduce and reuse, that is the one thing about bagging/infusion that isn't quite as neat as
  8. It kind of really is compared to glass, personally I always use the guidelines for weight fiber/epoxy and weigh out that much. Usually works for myself, otherwise I'd probably end up using way too much epoxy.
  9. I did wonder how long it took considering how sped up the video was! Did you have issues getting the bag absolutely tight, or what was the issue with not getting as high vacuum pressure? Was pretty great to watch for a noob, so thank you for that. Also nice to read about basalt since I found a few online sellers in my area that are not that much more expensive than glas and it looks interesting!
  10. Well, no expert but I am curious if you have a vacuum pump available or some other method to press the panels? As far as I understand it(and from the sandwich panels I diy) there is no need for chopped strand anywhere in your build. Peel ply, what kind of surface finish are you looking for? In other words, if you still need to paint and require a keyed up surface, then yes.
  11. Thank you for that! SK99 in 5mm still leaves me above the break load of the rigging screws if done like that. 6mm would be severe overkill but maybe going for that with SK78 instead. We'll see, with which I mean I need to check how big the holes in the spreader tips are.
  12. Yes, that is the chart I had seen as well. And that is exactly the intent as you put it, six dock lines take up far more space(and weight) than some dyneema that also can be used for all kinds of things in a pinch. Personally I have no issue carrying a spool and splice as needed, but the boat is also used by other family members on occasion who do not have the skills/confidence for that. Hence the idea to have some premade and labeled ones around.
  13. Had to double check myself here since I do not know stretch/load characteristics off the top of my head. I knew to to size so that creep is within an acceptable range(6mm would be ideal, 5mm somewhat lower bound but since its not a long term solution...). I was not aware that stretch characteristics differ significantly when using same diameter. Going by the one table(rigging company this or that), for replacing 4mm wire 5-6mm dyneema is recommended which fits. Do you happen to have better tables at hand?
  14. You read that this way as well? That is reassuring. Still annoys me since I always look for data sheets, but reassuring. About the phone call? You're right, yet my practical experience is that dealer/local shop/etc can be an absolute pain this way and I subsequently prefer doing everything online with data seconds away instead. (there is also my... somewhat unusual mindset that I don't want to pay for the man's time when it comes to basic information, not even indirectly) Only go to shops for bigger projects and more individual solutions that I know are not available off the shelve.
  15. Well yes, doesn't mean I want to spend money on the wrong part intentionally. I would buy them if I hadn't found another supplier, but now I have to make said chandelier phone the company for data and it is just so unnecessary.
  16. I would agree... but the last rigger pointed out that Bluewave‘s toggles aren‘t quite compatible with my Selden backing plates and I should not use them to avoid potential issues. Not likely to fail as such, but quicker wear or the like.
  17. Also, I need to bitch for a moment. How come virtually all suppliers make all but impossible to find info about their stuff online?! https://support.seldenmast.com/en/products/rigging_hardware/toggles/t-eye_toggles.html?id=4571&item=174-137 This is the t-eye that should be the right one for my application. I even found someone that sells it, but hell if I can read anywhere if it actually has the load ratings it should. Why do I end up mailing everyone...
  18. I'd need to pay attention to equalizing the lashing correctly and have the right dead eyes, but an entirely viable option yes. About compromising strength otherwise, if it is within acceptable margin(5mm dyneema being significantly stronger than 4mm wire), I could easily live with that, hence the question. Personally I'd prefer not having to splice anything at all.(easy method would be to simply taper the very long bury and simply pull out to the right length as needed before stitching. But then I'd also have to get it right which would require more prep than I want to sink into a measure
  19. Long story short, what is strength decrease to dyneema if I don‘t bury the tail as usual, tapered and all, but have it exit as done with adjustable eyes? Tried to find an answer but it was all about bend radius and splice length which I mostly already knew. Though still not sure if 24diameter bury is applicable anywhere anymore... Asking since I want to carry some easy to store and reasonably light weight emergency shrouds made from 5mm dyneema in case the 4mm 1x19 wire gets damaged and I notice before the mast comes down. Something to keep sailing with no rigger at hand but not havi
  20. Most I see clipping the bow lines with a snap shackle. Though that works less well if one needs to adjust length from the boat and best for the primary dock where it's always the same... Isn't that the truth? "Almost" dry... I have been using similar(foamed rubber tape) to kind of reasonable success, but hatches are old and wood, meaning I can't get enough "down force" without worrying about the fitting in the relatively soft wood... Really thinking about building entirely new hatches because bone dry is ultimately the way to go. Going to have to figure out how to make it work t
  21. Haha, yes! Isn‘t it a single eye now or nothing even?(could have sworn I saw someone tie to the forestay...) Race boats are a different kind of breed, though I believe the cockpit locker sealing has not been solved to satisfaction for older boats? Looking to redo mine completely but haven‘t settled yet. Would be easier if I knew where to source the right gasket.
  22. Look here, also had the pleasure of sailing one before if too rarely...
  23. Now I see what you mean, we should be fine then.(yep, used some bigger twine. Frankly overkill but has worked for years) You're right on the power cord run forward from the lazarette where I have stashed... 15 or so meters which is kind of heavy but useful. The log is the reason why the pic even exist. Sometimes, regular enough, the wood carriers lose some and eventually they tend to find their way through the bay. Which I honestly try not to think about too much. Luckily our local fishermen get rewards for bringing those in and that limits some risk. Also not a container... I
  24. Uh... Bull? What difference does it make? Also, I am more concerned about your knotted bow lines. Those left some scratches in my gelcoat/paint after some time of the boat periodically pulling on each bowline and jerking the knot across the deck. Of course your dock is probably less dusty and possibly has less movement than mine, but stuck out to me. This is how mine looks, but no guaranty that it actually is as original...
  25. Makes sense to me(picture of wear pending), the boat is now over thirty years old and I suspect the bearing has not been replaced in its lifetime. You agree then on sanding the rudder as well... That was the part I was concerned about the most since I knew it was standard to open the skeg, but wanted to avoid unnecessary work on the blade itself. Careful sanding it is... Also thanks for the illustration, that is helpful.
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