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allweather

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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Yep, last time was 15 or so years... I also confirmed it's not the rivets, the forestay simple is too long(mistake measuring in the winter, urgh) and needs replacing so that the mast is a bit more straight. Shame, it sailed extremely well the way it was... Interesting thing about the mast base, it is actually cast aluminium with 4-5mm thickness... But I'll simply put the rivets in again.(would have done this weekend, but make a guess who had the rivets fall out of the bag in their driveway and didn't notice until at the club?) Anyway, thank you for the link. The pricing seems... tole
  2. Threaded is so much nicer.(when possible) funny that you mention serviceability, I‘m about to drill out the rivets of my mast foot/base to see if the infernal knocking sound comes from there. (Redid everything during the winter, and a club mate pointed out that that was about 20C colder than now. Which makes some sense considering it happens on a windless night too, when its cooling drastically compared to the sun) I do wonder if I could tap the aluminium base... but I digress! If I had the tools for helicoils I‘d gladly use them just about everywhere. As is I try to source A4
  3. In addition to the figure eight/coiling issue introducing twist over time, also take care how you‘re taking off turns from the winch. Very noticeable but not as disastrous when people „flick off“ a jib sheet instead of... hm... unspooling it from the winch. Because each turn sprung off like that introduces a half turn of twist. Learned how this quickly adds up on a boat with backstay cascades that would twist within a few up and downs. I encountered the same when for using furler sails... Seriously, try putting four turns on a winch, and then instead of unwrapping them each tur
  4. Wow, that is pretty nice to hear that it is now a little less complicated when it comes to mounting hardware on carbon masts. Simple tef-gel and monel rivets work too? That brings it down to about as easy to use as aluminium masts. Nice.
  5. Basically that, in uni, if not for overall cost and shipping getting rather prohibitive... I did some napkin calcs that come out quite a bit cheaper, especially when I buy leftover fabrics from outlets which is more than enough for my purpose. Well, my time not included, but that I can live with... Right now I am testing(once I'm home again anyway) if the bearings I picked up work as I envisioned, then gather the other materials... Though I am playing with the idea of using uni directional glass in most areas. For all that carbon fiber is miracle stuff, as I understand it at the lower
  6. I'm no specialist, but this promotional video of a company using the stuff boils it down to not using traditional tows and instead a special way to spread out fibers that results in less voids and hence less weaknesses from how I understand it as a total layman.
  7. Thanks for the additional advice on what to ask for at a machine shop! In particular the part about 3-4x diameter is great to know for discussing with the machinist. The pod casing itself is metal, I suspect aluminium but don't know for sure.(no manual for that, only know that the original shaft was proper stainless steel) So I don't see myself trying to fiberglass anything there, screwing seems more convenient too... It is basically a trolling motor like all the others(there are threaded M30 fiberglass shafts around, but as mentioned, I want to go a bit slimmer) I agree with you o
  8. Oh, I'm sorry for my in retrospect very unclear question. Can only partly blame my grasp on the language... When I say shaft, I mean the straight pipe that connects the pod/motor with the outrigger.(aka, what a long shaft on a petrol outboard is) That kind of load should be addressed with normal, straight uni directional fiber, correct? I am reasonably secure in choice of tubing there(considering I currently am using uni directional glas fiber...), what I am not sure is how to best enlarge the diameter for the larger threads used to connect that tube to the pod. So, barely any
  9. Looks like a very pretty boat! Very sparse inside, but clean and nice. Not sure about some of the wood, but little that would need pulling out at all...
  10. After gaining some much needed experience last year and busy with other projects over the winter I now want to redo my diy electric outboard construction. This time in carbon to save some weight and get it stronger at the same time, but mostly to get some adjustments in(needs to be 20mm smaller to pass the backstay adjuster effortlessly) and insert some proper slide bearings. To that end I want to replace the 30mm/M30 stainless shaft that comes originally with a 19/12mm Carbon shaft(don't want it thicker than that) and would like to hear if anyone has advice how to best get an M30 thread
  11. Way I see it you can already mount panels on your dodger, between dodger and mast(not perfect, but works!) and if you wanted to even on the bow hatch. Unless that is one where you get/need light from? More importantly, nowadays the electrics should come with regeneration of some sort. As per your preference to sail, that should give you a lot of opportunity to recharge when you have more than... 10 or so knots. Yes, drag is a thing but compared to what it takes to drive a boat through the water at higher speeds, it may not be as bad as one could fear.(unless at low wind and speed, then of
  12. You know, I am here to watch the awesome boat take shape and see what new, cool methods you use, but you could just as well write a 49er blog and I'd read it all the time. Fair on trade secrets though. It's not like I have expertise or am ever going to use it(probably), but darn if these insights aren't super interesting in addition to the normal build. Certainly widens the horizon.
  13. 50% breaking strength on the headstay? Good for shape, higher than I expected though.
  14. Happy sanding Some extra steps, but sounds sensible to add that extra bit of strength instead of relying solely on the glued joint. Always surprising how small'ish rigging gear, like the mast jack, can look for the loads the things can see sometimes. Just like with the forces on even 4mm rigging wire, not something I can get intuitively...
  15. I missed that they actually adjusted the panels for better yield! The surfmast base makes a lot of sense then! As do the further explanations regarding ease and cost that is basically unbeatable. And yes, my though essentially went to an arch, connecting the two tubes or the like, which in retrospect is not necessary and would get in the way of tilting.(needing more panels, price and windage to compensate)
  16. At cost of fitting is a very pleasant calculation. In the meantime I also realized that with the hydraulic jack unloading the rig is super easy and as such creep not as much of a concern. Or the length change when temperatures fluctuate. That was the main reason why I was thinking carbon, to avoid the differences between mast and shrouds. This plan makes a lot of sense, especially the dialing in part.
  17. Seeing those pictures with virtually any mini having the two panels in the back, isn't there a small market for a standardized arch? Or is this just a case of sounding like a possibly neat idea at the bar, but on paper is actually 500g heavier and thus a no go? Probably with how much work goes into some campaigns...
  18. Nice stories you get around the project! And sure looks light balanced on the hull there. Really awesome. Say, were you going to spring for carbon rigging? I can't recall right now.
  19. It's very nice to see the somewhat rough looking appearance of the fabrics! I take it this is a case of not bothering with work or weight to get a smoother finish when its all about function here? I like that practical approach. Also just neat to see the foam tape method you described earlier in action. Pictures make visualization easier and it is something I've committed to memory for future endeavors where I am sure it will come in handy!
  20. Makes sense, thanks for expanding on the plan. Very different to two dollar garage operation! Makes a lot of sense to use first the left overs(prepreg anyway, right? Thought dry fabric clippings have some recycling nowadays whereas resin makes everything difficult) Also, if I could choose with no other consideration, carbon is nice to have... Fingers crossed. Really like the idea of the hydraulic jack, so that is nice to see come together!
  21. Neat, you are going to shape them some more once everything is bonded? Also, I've always been curious about using carbon as a block like that considering the cost. Sure, it is light and strong, but are there any specific advantages here instead of using... glass or some plastic tips?
  22. Crap. The association did some work to prevent such incidents, and the sailor was highly capable herself, so this will be an investigation... Not helping her sister any with her loss and its just sad.
  23. I like the utility, but don't think I ever saw why not to use a pantograph for the same purpose? Seems like another step in convenience, or am I missing something?
  24. Ah, I was thinking more of stiff/tender related to hull shape(which I suppose wet area/design displacement would go into) That said, I don't think I remember a boat where reducing keel weight was ever necessary for performance? I mean, reducing mass obviously increases performance if it is "surplus" stability/righting moment, but just having more righting moment due to a lighter mast isn't ever a negative compared to the same boat with a heavier mast, is it? Apart from comparative gains to be made from additional changes. Makes sense to me. With all the things you have changed i
  25. Carbon is awesome like that, if not for class rules/convenience(and well, money) I would love to opt for the option. Though to be honest, H-boat mast is small enough that a single person can still carry it easily(even a light weight like me) and stepping isn't that much of a hassle. Still, would be nice considering the handling even before sailing advantages... What do you mean with this exactly? I know of the effects the weight reduction can cause, but doesn't that include a decrease in stiffness/increase in responsiveness and why would less heeling moment be an issue that make
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