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Posts posted by allweather

  1. 1 hour ago, European Bloke said:

    he just picked the fucking thing up and stuck it in by hand on his own 

    Wait, what? Seems like I really need to get out on a dragon again, I thought the masts where heavier than that...
    Then again, I am not all that strong and walking up a mast that size is not that difficult, nor is carrying it solo, just unwieldy. Now lifting and stepping by hand... massive dude indeed :D


  2. Not sure if it is viable, but someone in the German association sells a set.(2 leg variant, you'll have to ask for pics to check if it suits your needs)

    Between cost and shipping I have no idea if it works for you, but may be worth an attempt.

    This is what I used years ago when I crewed for a dragon event. Technically can be done with one unless I recall wrongly, but two is definitely the comfortable variant.
    Note the measurements they posted.

  3. 3 hours ago, slug zitski said:

    Ive used this lift style  they are OK

    Are there versions suitable for deck hatches?

    I need to get my cockpit locker hatches tight and would prefer putting one of these in each corner instead of outside latches. But if water just seeps through the latch itself, then it would be a wasted effort.

  4. Yes, basic flanged. Or may even be even without flange, I need to check when I pull it out.(and figure out the how, bearing puller and see what kind of glue had been used...)

    Certainly would get rid of half the slop currently there. As you said 0.5mm is closer to thick foil, but let's see what a yard can do in addition to myself.
    Mcmaster(or local equivalent for plain bearing that is sea water suitable isn't too difficult from what I have seen during preliminary research)

  5. Was spot on, the bearing is worn into a nice oval. Whereas the shaft looks pristine and measures a uniform 11,95-12mm, the bearing ranges from 13-15mm. Which feels like not a lot considering the play, but is enough.

    Not sure if the pieces that fell out where the disc suppose to carry the weight as the hole goes through the entire, solid piece... Possible that there wasn't any in the first place? Regardless, the surface has been worn since it bore the weight with no particularly good contact area.
    Going to bring that to the shop and see how it will be fixed/done completely new and what kind of thrust bearing he'll put in to carry the weight in the future.

    Now, cutting out a piece was surprisingly difficult(need better tools), but done after an hour of struggling. Was surprised how thick the material was with a uniform 6mm.
    Foam is dry as far as I can see, hole redrilled into the bottom didn't reveil any seeping either. I did notice a small amount of fluid while cutting, and only during the start of the cut. For a lack of a better term the laminate felt wet. Though that may just be that it was cold before I brought it into the boiler room to dry further.(going to see if my local yard can measure humidity of the laminate)

    Now, I haven't quite completed getting rid of all the fairing compound, though the barrier coat is gone, because it was thick all over. Arms got tired towards the end as the only tool I had that proved sufficient was an angle grinder with 40 grit attachment. Worried I may have sanded in some divots here and there, or they were already present and that's why the faring compound was so thick in places.

    Bottom line, my current plan is to dry out for a month before I apply new epoxy fairing compound(sands... reasonably nice. Or is there another method to the madness?), followed by multiple coats of two color(if I can find) Seajet 117 because I already have one can of it.


    Now what I'd like to hear some opinions on is if I should just glue the cut out piece back in, scarf 1:12 and laminate again, or use the opportunity to close the blade as is and turn the cut out piece into one that gets bolted in? Not sure how much extra work that would actually be considering I'll be doing fiber work anyway, but also no idea if its worth it considering this has lasted forty years since the yard... Though to be fair, it had been lose for the last few years and I just didn't want to do that much work at the time...

    Second thing is that the shaft is also worn at the lower hull bearing. I reckon that happened because the plastic(acetal or so?) one had to carry more load than intended due to the skeg one's play. No idea how to fix that one in any reasonable fashion though.

    The rudder shaft is 25mm of solid, stainless steel and worn to relatively uniform 24,5mm around the lower hull bearing. As I have no access I wondered about getting plastic tube with inner diameter 24,5mm, slit it so that I can slip it on the affected area and then insert the rudder with the tube in place to make up the difference? Note that I can adjust the hull side bearing a little since that too has been worn(25,5 or so mm) and looks to be relatively easy to remove.

    No idea how else to address the issue as of now.




  6. Very dry as far as I can see, also cut off a piece since I needed access and the foam is bone dry as well.
    Will see if a local yard can measure (a piece of) the laminate and see what those readings say before I start faring and painting in a month.

    Forty year old and still looks nice...

  7. Hey Bull, just chatted with the association's technical representative on my own repair work and he wouldn't expect them to be dry, but said it can be possible.
    One option he recommended to me is to drill a small hole(2mm) in the top and apply some air pressure to check if there is water inside. But if its dry, why worry and drill holes?

    Well, I look to open up mine tomorrow one way or the other. If its dry too, that points towards being lucky.

  8. 19 hours ago, Panoramix said:

    Ideally I would need to show it, it isn't as complicated as it sounds,

    Yeah, I am a little lost on where you route sheets for each side to make it work. A picture would be very helpful... Though I do think I get the idea overall.

    Wouldn't it be possible to achieve the same result when using a two sheets, two foreguy system by routing the foreguy through a permanently mounted pulley on the pole? That way the pole would always wander to which guy one sheets in and should make it easy to guide through.

  9. Seriously, best wishes that you won't have any lingering symptoms. Took week to months for me to get back to normal... But then that was pre vaccine.

    Here to good health and more build progress.

    • Like 2
  10. That's perfectly fine, rare that anything gets ported without adjustments. And there is the fact that I tend towards a somewhat lower level for less work and most importantly somewhat less expense.

    More like arcane craft when I'm looking at putting the boat into the water in two and a half to three and a half months and still so much to do...

    Thanks for the tip in regards to planning. I already do it for some things, but you're right that I would have had an easier time for a number of items if I wrote down everything before I was at the boat. Frequently a week away and when I arrive I realize I need another tool for a minor job...

    Honestly, if I didn't write everything into a list during summer and start planning before autumn I wouldn't know how to finish everything.

  11. 15 hours ago, Zonker said:

    3/4 of all sailboat foam core rudders are wet on the inside

    How would I be able to tell that though? Asking since I have my rudder off right now and fighting to get the barrier coat off before fixing some minor osmosis bubbles.
    And would like to know if there is more to it while I am doing the work anyway...

  12. 1 hour ago, Bull City said:

    My need is mostly related to anchoring.

    I don't know about models, less said about finders the better, but have one mounted since the previous owner and wonder if you're still thinking about placement?

    Can report that it works nicely below the V-berth and useful that you can run the wires through the bilge without having to drill any new holes. It's just solid laminate as far as I know.
    (Though it is an old unit that I may need to replace someday since it usually is accurate, but sometimes jumps from above 10m depth reading to 2m and that is just disquieting)

  13. Me taking notes... I do need to figure out how to seal my cockpit lockers that are notoriously wet and this looks like some good ideas.(once I get up the motivation to redo everything...)

    About bagging, for small,especially flatter, parts I've started using zippable "cloth bags" usually used to debulk and store winter bedding or the like. Neat in so far that I don't have to mess with tape and can simply shove the entire work plate, piece and associated material into the bag before applying vacuum.

    Anyway, really nice to see the kind of progress you're making and an easy insight in the methods of someone actually knowing what they're doing.

    That sander looks excellent! Costs as much as one would expect too... Proper tools always do.
    Well, I can postpone that purchase some time since I finished that work for now with some turpentine which did a passable job together with scrubbing by hand. That and then using one of those brass wheels to take of the rest after the turpentine made it a lot less sticky.

    Pretty sure another solvent would have been better, but hell if I had known the right one and this way I was done after a day and a half of scrubbing. So glad for the full face mask and right filters though, I can't handle solvents at all and below deck the fumes are just horrible.

  14. On 12/28/2021 at 4:11 PM, IanA. said:

    Well turns out its nearly solid steel and heavy as shit, it weighs more than our anchor.

    Never have two tools when you could use one for two jobs? Declare the steps as anchor and save having an extra one :D

    You look to have made a lot of progress sanding, what kind of gear are you using? I just finished removing rubbery crap used to glue liner to the ceiling and even for a small spot it was a pain to do.(different from what you have, but sine I may redo the floor sometime as well...)

  15. 8 hours ago, low bum said:

    The Webasto clones seem to use a lot of juice on warm up

    Guess that's why they're knock offs? And yes, depending on how long you'd be running it(just fans once ignited I think, so the initial draw is to heat it enough) that could become a significant power hog. Though if run for select hours it does seem a lot more reasonable to me.

    Then again, cold also implies less than and power, right? Either way, sounds like it could be worth it to take a close look at your expected use hours(and not once in a blue moon scenarios) and crunch basic numbers.

    8 hours ago, low bum said:

    diesel problems of extra tanks

    Ah, so you don't already have an inboard diesel tank you could have used? In that case it sounds much more like a non starter.
    I brought up the units specifically because they are to run in any orientation and have been used on boats before. (Pogo offers to put them on their boats, and one of the anarchists that got a new 50? had one installed too)

  16. Well, can't really argue with that.
    I have polyurethane paint since 2012 and no issue, but also northern Europe with the boat only 7-9 months in the water.
    Damage repair is... Don't hit things ;) Fixing some chafed through areas is painting over, wet sand and polish. So I have nothing more to compare to.

    No argument about the punishment gelcoat can take though. Tends to be thicker to begin with. On the flip side, I haven't polished gelcoat in years.

  17. Honestly, never really saw an Olsen before before coming here, and I agree that they're beautiful! And I like how your scoop fits into the picture.
    How long and how much money took this again? Looked so easy on the pictures but we all know how that goes.

  18. They don't though? Well, I suppose that really depends on battery size, regeneration(solar etc.) and other drains on board.
    The airtronic for example quotes 40W in use power needs at full heat(3800W), decreasing 10W per setting. And of course a relatively high starting load of 100W for the... five minutes of start up.

    Which isn't nothing, but actually quite good overall?

    I agree that stand alone has its own uses and applications, I am just not sure if the arguments outweigh the convenience of an integrated unit. Especially as those take outside air as fuel and vent emissions outside of the cabin.

    • Like 1
  19. 15 hours ago, carcrash said:

    So that includes engine compartment.

    Diesels don‘t?(never owned an inboard myself and all ships I crew on are either spotless or obviously never touched...)

    by the way, how much extra space do you have gained there(any sound proofing removed?) and are you using it for anything?

  20. 9 hours ago, JulianB said:

    Speaking of epoxy laminate, I could not help myself and de-peelply-ed the bow.

    Hahaha, good to know you have that itch a well!
    The white/red rope hanging around is a pilot line for the one later going to the bowsprit?

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