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allweather

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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Should be 2011, I think. I know that the previous owner I bought it from broke their original boom shortly before I bought it and after they switched to the carbon rig. While I can see the boom bend when vang is on fully(since I put the 1:4 purchase in), nothing seems to be a problem. Checked everything else over just in case and it was fine. Looks like I'll plate it over once winter gets properly cold. Mainly as my current regular crew is busy and doesn't fancy sailing in freezing air. Switching to windsurfing for the time then and maintenance on the boat. Though getting the new fitti
  2. @JulianB Somewhat different, but checking over my boat I noticed a pretty worrying crack in my 49er boom. I think I can track it back to the gooseneck fitting being bend back a bit and putting some pressure on the profile.(don't ask how that happened... My idea would be to remove the fitting, drill a small hole at the end of the crack and then bolt on the fitting again together with a 2/3mm aluminium plate on top and monel blind rivets. Does that sound like a plausible repair or should I just get over it over with and invest in a new boom?
  3. I recon further forward, hiking. Sadly didn't take a proper topside picture. Wheel is quite forward too now that I think on it.
  4. It is a strange choice I must admit. Oh, and I should clarify that I saw it in Kiel, Germany. Which doesn't mean it couldn't come from another continent but does make it less likely.
  5. Highjacking for comment in case knowledgeable people are already around. Saw this boat last weekend in a marina and didn't get the opportunity to ask the owner about it. Any idea what it is?
  6. Recently been looking, trying, into a company that builds similar rim electric drives in Germany. Their english website is even worse though. http://www.fmt-kempen.de/en/products.htm To adress your keypoints, they state 80+ efficiency, about same as the torqeedo and spirit, and the whole unit is maintenance free with the electrics fully potted and bearings water lubed ceramic rollers. Personally I like that they sell it as a retractable system. Where the whole unit just gets pulled up into a sealed shaft, some 300mm diameter or so and not much higher(at most, some units are signifi
  7. How much do you need to retrack? I don't think there is anything particular about the job you need to watch out for.(aside proper PPE too many sailors tend to forget. Especially nitrile gloves for acetone. Mask and filters for it is probably too expensive for one time use.(if you could get them right now) Just make sure you have a very well ventilated area) A good digital scale never hurts mixing two part glues. Aside from that it isn't witch craft. Maybe some before after pictures?
  8. I still have the PDF for that. Only had to replace a short piece of track on my own 49er mast and found it fairly straightforward. Hope the instructions give you everything you require. Microsoft Word - How to track a - Oliver.pdf
  9. While on prevention, coiling in big zeroes is one of the primary ways this happens(adding a twist with every turn pulled off. Like with garden hose for better visualisation). The easy fix practiced on every larger boat is to coil it up in figure eights. Usually over a winch for easier handling. That way the turns cancel out each other. The second most common way I have seen this is when taking turns off of a winch fast. Most people more or less "flick" off the last few turns once there isn't a lot of tension on the sheet/stay/halyard anymore and that causes the same twists as coiling in z
  10. Thanks again Julian. Really, it is so great to be able to solicit help from you here on these matters. If I get lucky there are still a weekend or two to get out on the water before it gets too fresh here for doing it for fun and I switch fully to windsurfing.(even quicker rigging and virtually no worry about gear and weather. Worst case it is a minute back to the beach as opposed to capsized in cold water...)
  11. Wait, I just realized. Do you mean to leave them tensioned in the sail while storing it? I know it is the way to go with the windsurfers and in that way it would make sense here too but I did have it stored warm and dry the last two years with everything loose. I guess that would explain why it was a tight fit even at the least batten tension...
  12. It really wasn't. Using the method everyone seems to be using, and I was just not remembering, my numbers fit again. At least for a rough setting that has the rig and boat feeling alright at our level of capability. Nevermind speed comparisons. We went shortly before 20kn ashore. Fun but flipping is so easy. And a good choice considering afterwards it was gusting up to 30kn... That would be great! I have some outdated, 2017, numbers picked from some guys in Kiel but also have talked with quite a few casual 49er sailors that don't have that kind of access and struggle to set
  13. Alright cool. Thanks for clearing that up so swiftly. Going to have to replace that part sometime for the new then.(or something equivalent) for now I have two new old style spinnakers and t used market looks good for my wallet
  14. Well, measuring prebend like that got me in the ballpark. Or at least we did not embarass us too much sailing yesterday. Though felt the need to get into better condition One thing I struggled with though is what construes correct mast curve? As is when hoisting the main I get significant pressure on the lower battens. Enough to make it difficult to raise and bolt rope wanting to pull out. I know that this isn‘t normal behaviour. Any ideas on how to fix that? The battens are in their „softest“(most in) position already as per base trim.
  15. I was not aware that this is an issue with the spinnakers. Thought the halyard stopper was there to account for that difference. Or is that something that has changed with the new spinnaker version? I am really out of the loop with recent developements.
  16. Jib and spi work on the old style rig. The main however is completely incompatible and even if you could somehow put it on you shouldn't. Probably won't break the mast, but the old alloy/composite mast is not built for those loads or cut of the sail. Start with the new rig right away. It is somewhat easier to handle and more fun to sail. Why do you want to try the old one?
  17. Today I learned... that these are in fact a full size thing on modern boats.(Only seen it on rc model sailboats before That does sound really nice for greater wind angles where an ordinary self tacking jib is less ideal. I don't think I would go for it, but can really see the appeal.
  18. I have never seen something like this on a full size boat. Is that a jib boom swiveling right behind the luff?
  19. The southern spar logo. The one that is about halfway between the lower spreaders and the gooseneck? No wonder I got gibberisch... I mean, measured nonsense. It is good to know that there is a high variance in the lowers' tension possible. Though I did not really ease them for more bend(see my measuring mistake. Will try the weekend and note where I actually end up) but because I got such high numbers... Well, time to see if I can get the bend right and the rest to fall in line. Then slowly learn over time...
  20. Hi, I finally am about back to going out on the water after a two or so health related break and thought to rig everything up and trim yesterday in preparation. Then noticed that apparently I forgot even more than I thought. Issue is that I don't get the numbers I expect and reach the limits of the adjustment screws. I reckon I just need to play around with the three stays until it works again, but have no idea where to start right now and could use a heads up if anyone spots the obvious problem. Right now if I set things for winds 20kn+(survival for myself) I get rig tension meas
  21. If I had it I could say... As is the shop I ordered from pointed me to a note at the bottom of the page proclaiming they get sent out „first come, first served“ as they don‘t have stock yet due to the recent release date. Add in that my order fell of the desk(in part my fault) and I am waiting for the third week after paying. Maybe it still arrives before the boat gets hauled out, but temperatures have been plummeting towards freezing. Do you have a picture? Really helps assess the specific set up.
  22. I have used the method with two bolts(also depicted on the shocksailing page) for all my(too short) time sailing 49er and from the two times I got stuck in the foot loop whilethe boat flipped/fuck up that this seems to work. Both the bolts tearing through the material due to their small diameter and the loops themselves stretching under excessive load of a trapped foot. One memorable time got dragged by my foot after falling out of the trapeze(actually was "hooked in" with the tip of the hook, less than secure. Would not recommend ) and didn't get any injury. Not pleasant though. Als
  23. Not really, I just like to use aluminium since I never ever need to worry about it again like with wood. Okay, unlikely that it will get wet there and rot. If I was buyiing new however that would be my go to. I‘m already doing upkeep for the few wooden parts on deck and that is enough. Anyway, I don‘t see an issue with using a teak plate that thick. Use some oversized washers and you should be good to go. If anything does turn out not to quite fit you can still change it afterall. Not that I expect anything.
  24. While I measured the thickness I also took the opportunity to "feel" how stiff the riser is when unsupported. Sadly I did not take a picture of the area for better illustration. On my boat there is a cutout in the riser for a 300x150mm slide drawer we use for storing flares, bolt cutters and the like for emergencies. When grabbing the unsupported edge of that cutout and pulling/pushing there is some give but not horribly so. Nevertheless I would not want to mount a table with that much leverage on them unsupported. However this is when the structure is severly weakened by the large
  25. Alright, I should get my Prostart and W-bracket in a few days and race it on a short local circuit. Let's see how it will go. Thank you for the measurements, that reassured me of the fit.(I then realized that I am allowed to return parts for refund minus the five euro shipping cost if I had gotten it wrong)
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