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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Oh that cutout is significantly larger than on my boat where there is space behind the wall still.(shelf is probably the same size overall) How about mounting both the throttle and the screen on a board that can swivel back to one side of the shelf? That way youd don't lose all of the space and the parts can be out of the way, as well as rain, when you don't need them? Kind of like how some boats have a swivel mount for the plotter/radio/instruments in the companionway.
  2. Inatallation I've seen once somewhere. Do you have an opening/shelf at the tiller?
  3. You're right. Forgot that bit of the video where he aknowledges those limitations. I was more thinking of the likes as Torqeedo with their... questionable equivalency statements. At least poor demonstration for what it can do. Probably brakes every marketing rule but personally I'd just strap the standard outboard to a typical 8m boat and show it motor into port in 4-5bft. Instant establishing of its capability.
  4. Whenever I see someone motoring directly into 5bft wind and a meter or so waves I can't help but shake my head. Then again I don't want to tell others how to enjoy their time and make presumptions. I just can't figure out why one would do this. Even the issue of tacking up a relatively narrow passage is not all that problematic today with self tacking jibs.(not necessarily pretty, but you can install one on just about any ship if you require the comfort) Still, if electric motor companies stopped trying to sell them as diesel replacements I believe adaptation would have gone much better.
  5. Yeah, someone would need to do the math, but I also suspect electrics won‘t come out ahead in typical sailing use case unless you‘re looking at some really long term gains... repowering seems to make sense if the old engine is toast and/or the electricla system could use a rebuild anyway. Plus the far less altruistic preferences for near silent propulsion and less noisy generation. But that in of itself has little to do with the environment. SUVs are a thing that pushes my buttons... decades of aerodynamic improvements burned for... that. Sorry for digressing. Wh
  6. These kind of studies tend to use vehicle life. Not measured in years but in kilometers driven. So technically how much you use it doesn‘t impact the calculations as you just get the same result but later if you use it less. For cars they figured out that there is a point where new becomes less environmentally costly. I don‘t know the number off of the top of my head though. We also find that modern electric vehicles(energy production included for both) use significantly, range of 50% even, less emissions per kilometer. A lot of that thanks to regeneration. I suppose it is not as n
  7. But you‘re wrong. More recent Volkswagen, for example, study put the energy/environmental cost of a car over its lifetime at around 70%. Production of the car about 6-10% I believe and the rest is basically getting the fuel to your car. The latter often happily forgotten when discussing grid losses. (Not that the calcs about solar panel costs and so on are unimportant. They are just pretty good actually once you look past how cheap oil is... when not calculating environmental damage over the long term. Besides the point)
  8. I did not think of that much going into it... More just on how wood can hold insects in a bad case. Not much of an issue for plastic boats but still. Whereas pellets are easy to just drop in a few more or less depending on burn time. Would sealed bags suffice for dry storage? Use them for just about anything else afterall. Took a quick look around and apparently for a more sophisticated oven, compared to the higher efficiency electric pellet ones similar to the big units in houses, the tiny house movement has made some inroads. Appears to be still quite heavy at 60 or so kgs and by desi
  9. You know in time of pellets, how viable is that actually? I know some cruisers do take wooden ovens perfectly fine. But pellets is another level of convenience in storage(can fit that bag into any nook and cranny, no additional gear required) and actually firing? Plus compared to gas or diesel it is not exactly a fire hazard in any way?
  10. Probably not. The motor could be run on 24V. Kind of.(wrong constructions, likely to burn out due to high current) But the electric controller will not start it. Have you considered a non torqeedo/Epropulsion battery? 48V are a bit rarer(though serial connections are supported by some 24V batteries) but do exist in various measurements that would fit the drawer.
  11. Think so. Rarely went down since I was always sailing but it has some things.(relatively many students) Depends on what you want to do? Half to one hour drive into a world heritage city. That can be quite nice. Then again, I am biased. In Rostock, if the timeframe fits, there is speedsailing. Aka a half/day trip on a VO60. Not sure if you can do something like that locally or if it is worth a look. As for sailing... can have a range of conditions. Light winds in summer are often the case. But windy can happen too and then usually days of it. Waves tend to get fairly steep and big if y
  12. One of the boats I sail on has one of these. The worse pain is actually accidentally touching the screen and messing up what is being displayed. Not catastrophic, but annoying. I suppose you get used to it.(last year was just short on opportunities) Plus half the installations I have seen have the button(right wheel) exposed that I always worry about accidentally ripping it off before breaking the screen. As for the twin electric motors. Let's do some tank turns! (I don't know the term for boats. Walking the ship?)
  13. Bolting into the risers would be the easy way. But since I don't want to drill holes I'll glue some teak(delrin would be even nicer) blocks where there is now space between the hull and the box in the second picture. Just one for each corner. Then going to screw into them when the box is in place. For sliding it out I'll just have to remove those four screws. Batteries are still on order but will be around 44kg. The box is made from 8mm plywood and really quite strong, likely overengineered but I wanted to be sure with the mass involved. The storage bin still has enough space to fit
  14. Not quite the same as I plan to DIY the battery from cells, but the principle works nicely and took me an afternoon to fit. (Now glueing it in addition to the screws that already hold everything solidly enough as is. Then painting and hoping using non marine ply will be sufficient. Or replace it a few years earlier in the worst case.) Still needs to be bolted to avoid accidentally sliding around, but otherwise a really nice solution.
  15. That is beyond my experience in regards to disturbed flow after the keel or in front of the rudder. My feeling would always value nice steering more but no idea... Installation and access behind the keel is so much nicer however. From a rule of thumb approach I'd go with right in front of the frame below the winches.(number 3 "frame" at the keel) Not directly after the keel, still good access right besides the seacocks and you don't need to cut any large hatches for installation.
  16. It should be straight forward enough. But with your level of skill in that regard getting a professional to do it for you is probably the better choice depending on what shore installation you have exactly... You should not need more than a marine grade cable run to the boat/extension cord(won't degrade too much in the weather and has no issue with even being in the water. As seen in many a marina) DIY battery is out, but the E80 and the fitting 110V charger can be bought as is. Add in a switch, cables to the motor and charger that a professional can crimp in his shop once you determined
  17. You're welcome. I am not quite sure what you mean here? The standard charger for these batteries do come in 110V versions and from there it is just a simple cable run. Weight wise you're right, the drawer below the cockpit is about as close as you can get to the CoB.(about below the companionway hatch... I mean where the lift ring is on the keel is about right Going a bit further aft however is not that disastrous. From the back of the drawer to the lazaretty it is just about one meter. Cockpit locker literally just a wall. So some 30-40cm. have fun locating everything onboard.
  18. Darn, didn't write down my notes for that compartment on account of tossing the idea for commercial battery packs. From memory there is virtually no space between the storage bin and the cockpit drains. Depends a bit on how exactly the drains are done in your boat.(ours are a bit forward so that there is space for the chargers aft of them) Pulling out the drawer until it rests under the step nets you 170mm or so but comes with the downside of everything falling into the drawer now. Sacrificing a bit of drawer space with a custom one could accomodate a battery. Possibly, the E80 could be a
  19. Looked around again and the RYA made a bulletin(not the first one with the incidents through the years) about it. Including your option of pushing the hull directly. Found the difference between attaching a line to the shrouds and to the bow interesting. Where for the shrouds a crew needs to clip into the opposite side(see video) or afterwards motor around the hull before righting it. And the forestay being easy to reach in any case, issues with seastate aside, but only lifting the mast to 90° as far as I understood it. Certainly explains the 420er rule regarding tow lines that they
  20. The method with the line to the power boat was in a newsletter of the 49er/nacra association a year or longer ago... Can't find it right now, maybe @JulianBcan go into more detail on that? Issue was, and is, that the 49er can be an absolute bitch to right when it is fully upside down. You can do it even alone, but it takes a long time... Too long, especially when another crewmember is trapped beneath and makes it even more difficult as well as pressing. The method described above then was devised to flip the boat over as quickly and reliably as possible.(did some live tests to figure
  21. Does this count as thread highjacking? Should I start its own thread if/when I attempt a build?(and document it well enough. Usually I don‘t) By todays tests with a lot of carboard, some wood and clamps and a lot of fiddling I think I may have a winner. Can be put in the water from the tiller, while standing, and you can reach the shaft once it is deployed while sitting in case you need to turn it. (I suppose you could mount the throttle there too) Size constraints of the lazarette hatch means that the shaft needs to be telescoping(note the step in the carboard tubes for reference).
  22. That is the standard mount we have too. But it is offset by 20cm as opposed to closer to 80cm. As Panoramix said, I am probably overthinking the issue. Biggest challenge is fitting things as a napkin sketch has shown the relatively greater freeboard and small hatch makes things... interesting. Maybe a telescoping shaft? That would be somewhat less elegant depending on how exactly one does it, but seems like an easy fix for something that would then disappear below hatches and out of sight again. Simplest I can think of is using one of those adjustable brackets trolling motors use.
  23. That's brilliant! Why haven't I seen this concept ever before? Neatly gets around the need for cutting a hole in the hull and preserves the clean stern. We all know it is about that stern Wonder how it could fit on the H-boat as the geometry is a little different. I need to get some cardboard to test it out right now.(well, when I'm back at the boat in a week.) Could be a bit of a problem to figure out how to protect it from getting piled on as stuff thrown into the lazarette would invariably tend to drift towards it. But let's see if I can make it work. Certainly looks a fair bit mo
  24. Just realized the worse part. .You'd need to be careful with the lifting straps as the aft ones are in the vicinity of any potential pod drive.(just saw one boat where they accidentally lifted over the drive shaft! Quite a bit damage...) I seem to have misread the anti fouling issue. Don't know what they thought there as fouling concerns should be elementary. May have to ask the makers directly about it? It probably would work just fine with paint but you'd lose warranty and that is a no no with such an expensive motor. That is my guesstimate anyway. One could try Renolit's Dolphin
  25. I don'T know about the torqeedo, but at least epropulsion states that the unit comes with an anti fouling coating already applied that is supposed to last years. So there is that. About installation I am not sure what you worry about? The pods drive look to be simple three moderate holes to be drilled. One for the cable pass through and two bolts with which to fasten the entire unit. Sealant between and relatively straight forward, not all that different from installing through hulls/sea cocks. Durability is the big one as you said. Can't exactly swap units easily without the boat be
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