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allweather

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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Are those ovals patches or just artifacts that look strange? Also, again green with envy!
  2. Good to know, just keep stitching then. Though I may get away with skipping the stitching for testing purposes until everything fits and then do it after the fact... Well, shrouds are all wire for now anyway. Hm, better to just stay on the safe side and put in a toggle then. While I don't have plates and actually round attachment points the terminations can rotate around in two axes, within reason sideways, it is hardly much of a bother, if a few gram more. Only the forestay is an actual flat plate that would torque. Bigger annoyance is the Selden T-eye that doesn't have a proper d
  3. You're always welcome to, will be a happy reader. But what you've posted already(or in other threads) is plenty too. As is some of what you describe is outside of what I can achieve on my current keelboat. Not the fairing as such, I'll do that next time antifoul is off. But since I am trying out antifoul (silicone) foil this year a certain... structured feel is there no matter the surface prep. (of course the primer got screwed up, some runs, and no time to fix before hitting the water this season... Next time) That is great to know about vertical flow! Putting that into practice...
  4. In case you haven't seen it yet, complete build by Hugo for his Mini. Light sandwich panel with a glued in bolt.
  5. These look pretty nice if one wants to be able to adjust eye size/line length relatively quickly since no stitching needs to be removed? Asking because I tend to get splice length wrong on first attempt for things like stays and this sounds like a neat solution to make handling a bit easier for hands lacking practice. Though looking at their website, the bottom terminations don't have the toggles I associate with wire ones. Are they not necessary since it is rope instead of relatively stiff wire in regards to bending?
  6. I tried with one of my rudders, but had to cut things short to get season ready... More work than I thought it would be(previous owner caked on a lot of faring compound too), and I do have to read up on how to achieve good results. In that sense I am quite happy with all the little bits you're sharing here and elsewhere.(often not all the details, but good stuff and tends to point me in the right direction)
  7. Had to chuckle here, just finished forepeak ceiling clean up after it was half done for the past five years... Though it was less work compared to your sanding, just removal of residue glue and one thing coat of paint. Which doesn't cover perfectly, but good enough and less weight (its not a race boat, it doesn't matter all that much) I prefer black too, the white plastic always looks cheaper to my eyes for some reason. Whereas black feels more like decorative trim than tacked on, its the contrast probably? The mast will be clear coated entirely, or only under deck? Should look
  8. Not going to lie, I thought before to just cover all the nuts with foam(maybe springy type) for exactly that reason. We have far fewer though... I really like how bright the interior is coming out now. Nice and worth the work!(especially as I didn't have to do the sanding to look at it!)
  9. That picture looks like that too. Hat off, stuck parts are a nightmare. Do you reckon anything in particular did it, or just the relatively flat surfaces?
  10. Thanks for the name drop, just read through the data sheet and looks to be pretty neat stuff. A bit less(no VOC) hazardous.
  11. Was worried about runs for a second there, then realized you just weren't finished spreading yet. By the way, any particular epoxy you use for that coat?(Just understood non blushing epoxy is a thing...)
  12. That looks like a big, big pain in the ass. Dust everywhere while sweating to get things fair. In other words, sanding. How much is actual fairing versus just getting things smooth? (also, now that I see the dust on the floor, how do you deal with it getting everywhere? I hate that and why I try to wet sand whenever I can. Though obviously the drying required is not good either. Though I prefer since I don't have a proper shop and can live with waiting)
  13. As it happens a stainless, domed nut fits perfectly as a lower "thrust bearing." Is it okay to use that, or am I overlooking something? Would be nice since I already have them(from other projects) and are relatively cheap in general.
  14. So, I am not too happy with the shop doing the work, but I have the part back. Of course part of being unhappy is that they failed to include the hard steel disk... The drilled hole is deep enough that I can add one though. First thought is to go with a stainless steel ball(and some "washers" to get the height right). Any obvious issues I'm not seeing?
  15. I want to not use gelcoat for a part out of a female mould, but also would like to avoid having to paint after the fact. My research in that regard, using urethane paint or the like in the mould, isn't going well. Would you know some keywords to look into to read up?
  16. Nice table, work bench, seat? Convenient, need to remember that... I have some Euroboxes still lying around... Looks very neat with my undiscerning eyes. Since this takes all the rudder loads(small as they are with your design?), what thickness carbon tubing are you using?
  17. What do you mean here, ensuring that the surface Close to perfect once separated from the waxed surface? i don‘t think I had an issue up to now since hand layup is usually a bit resin rich and weight then compresses... You can always start with a layer of brushed on epoxy, wait until it sets enough to only be tacky anymore, and then start properly laminating with a new batch.
  18. On my boat it is "lose contact with the boat(tether), and you're dead." We're pretty much always short handed, 2-4 people and none athletic enough to get an unresponsive guy out reliably. I know the gold standard is not to go over the lifelines, but half the boats I sail on don't even have lifelines. Though those typically can be rapidly stopped and drift fairly slowly. So tethered to the boat, and if possible clipped into a halyard so that they can't drop so low to begin with. Don't ever want to find out if that is sufficient.
  19. Sounds very actionable, which is great! Bad cell would be a clear cut case, BMS would be a curious thing since I'd think that a company pushing for world market shares like Epropulsion should have a handle on that. Compared to some of the cheapo BMSs I've seen in any case, some have surprising standby drains or do other strange things when it comes to having the battery sit... Add in how the voltage curve for LiFePo4 is very flat and I could see it getting confused.(an issue I had before was the BMS accurately tracking Wh discharged and voltage, but only measured discharge level thro
  20. So, Bull... have you plugged in your boat already and seen if the battery was empty as zloitapok has quoted? The beep every eight seconds would fit your window. (reading again, it isn't quite the same, but I'd like to know if charging helped anyway)
  21. That sounds like a reasonable option, as long as I am careful and get the creases out from the plastic that are left over from last year's renovating... Bunks though, I can't picture the job you did and am now curious. Any pics?
  22. Alright, thanks for the additional ideas! I actually already have PVA on hand, I just don't trust myself when I only have one attempt at getting everything right. You already helped me figure out using bag film for the large, anti slip area and tape(going to check compatibility. Don't ask me how I learned that lesson in patience Last,, luckily small part was a loss to that.) for the more difficult corners. Should then be alright and save me from trying to cover a square meter with tape.
  23. I am reasonably sure you've mentioned it already(baking paper?), but how do you keep the bulkheads from sticking to your hull while still staying true to shape? Currently thinking of taking a mold off of a deck hatch(to mess around with a few things without ruining the original) and how to make absolutely sure I get good separation. Especially in light of anti skid over most of its area. Currently thinking of flash release/packing tape.
  24. I really would like to use something like that for a handful of things around my boat(instead of epoxy, drill and tap), but don't know if this is some kind of finished product or do I have to buy ordinary G10 tubes and tap them myself? Because someone once explained to me how tapping such tubes cuts most of the fiber in the thread and one ends up with more or less only epoxy strength? At least in one area that would be too weak in my case.(or at least I wouldn't trust it. I guess I can just figure out how to bond a metal insert)
  25. Alright then, I have never tried icing bag, but maybe I should... going to have to test my filler for consistency. Thanks for elaborating on that part, and the filters. I react quite strongly as I learned over the last year and now always mask up.(basically always closed rooms) The 3M full mask, vapor and particle filters helped a lot compared to some of the cheaper variants. Wished I sprung for that earlier.
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