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allweather

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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Had not considered the part about wasted tips. Price... that makes sense. I only wanted it because I need to get it into the crack somehow, and messing with filler will mean lots of clean up at my skill level. Moot point on account on delivery times.
  2. Seeing the rather laborious process of applying the glue, what is your stance on cartridge adhesives like West System's six10 or similar? Aside from availability issues... just ordered one to fill drilled out cracks in a hull and got told I can expect one cartridge in a month... May just do it with epoxy filler and putty knife after all. Also, you are wearing respirators with filters for fumes?
  3. How are these ones made, cut from tooling board and then finished? Looks awesome coming in like that.
  4. Such orders are so far beyond me(or my wallet currently), but good to know... Thanks for the name drop on MA420. I had a bit of unmarked left over that by now went bad for fixing mast track on my 49er in case I break something... Also, the explanation makes sense in general, so thank you again.
  5. Talk about straight forward, use tape! Brilliant. Did I get that right that you'll leave the VHB tape in after you drilled the holes? (Acts as adjustable spacers? since you're talking about squeezing and getting tension right)
  6. I am curious about that too! My gut feeling would be to externally rig the two parts together and mark two matching points at the front and back before taking everything apart. Then draw a line through the points that should line up, and measure very, very accurately before drilling. How is it actually done?
  7. Funny, Kostis already commented on that video... If it has to be a tripod, and barring accurate measurements, just get the lengths as stated in the second link and buy the third leg overlength so it can be cut to size at the boat.
  8. Wait, what? Seems like I really need to get out on a dragon again, I thought the masts where heavier than that... Then again, I am not all that strong and walking up a mast that size is not that difficult, nor is carrying it solo, just unwieldy. Now lifting and stepping by hand... massive dude indeed
  9. Not sure if it is viable, but someone in the German association sells a set.(2 leg variant, you'll have to ask for pics to check if it suits your needs) https://www.drachenklasse.de/advert/mastlegevorrichtung-transportbox/ Between cost and shipping I have no idea if it works for you, but may be worth an attempt. This is what I used years ago when I crewed for a dragon event. Technically can be done with one unless I recall wrongly, but two is definitely the comfortable variant. https://www.tactix.de/shop/tactix/drachen-mastlegevorrichtung-teleskopisch Note the measurements they
  10. Are there versions suitable for deck hatches? I need to get my cockpit locker hatches tight and would prefer putting one of these in each corner instead of outside latches. But if water just seeps through the latch itself, then it would be a wasted effort.
  11. Yes, basic flanged. Or may even be even without flange, I need to check when I pull it out.(and figure out the how, bearing puller and see what kind of glue had been used...) Certainly would get rid of half the slop currently there. As you said 0.5mm is closer to thick foil, but let's see what a yard can do in addition to myself. Mcmaster(or local equivalent for plain bearing that is sea water suitable isn't too difficult from what I have seen during preliminary research)
  12. Was spot on, the bearing is worn into a nice oval. Whereas the shaft looks pristine and measures a uniform 11,95-12mm, the bearing ranges from 13-15mm. Which feels like not a lot considering the play, but is enough. Not sure if the pieces that fell out where the disc suppose to carry the weight as the hole goes through the entire, solid piece... Possible that there wasn't any in the first place? Regardless, the surface has been worn since it bore the weight with no particularly good contact area. Going to bring that to the shop and see how it will be fixed/done completely new and what k
  13. Very dry as far as I can see, also cut off a piece since I needed access and the foam is bone dry as well. Will see if a local yard can measure (a piece of) the laminate and see what those readings say before I start faring and painting in a month. Forty year old and still looks nice...
  14. Hey Bull, just chatted with the association's technical representative on my own repair work and he wouldn't expect them to be dry, but said it can be possible. One option he recommended to me is to drill a small hole(2mm) in the top and apply some air pressure to check if there is water inside. But if its dry, why worry and drill holes? Well, I look to open up mine tomorrow one way or the other. If its dry too, that points towards being lucky.
  15. Ah, I was thinking of spinnaker and missed that you meant the system rigged for use with a jib. That cleared that one up, thanks.
  16. Yeah, I am a little lost on where you route sheets for each side to make it work. A picture would be very helpful... Though I do think I get the idea overall. Wouldn't it be possible to achieve the same result when using a two sheets, two foreguy system by routing the foreguy through a permanently mounted pulley on the pole? That way the pole would always wander to which guy one sheets in and should make it easy to guide through.
  17. Seriously, best wishes that you won't have any lingering symptoms. Took week to months for me to get back to normal... But then that was pre vaccine. Here to good health and more build progress.
  18. That's perfectly fine, rare that anything gets ported without adjustments. And there is the fact that I tend towards a somewhat lower level for less work and most importantly somewhat less expense. More like arcane craft when I'm looking at putting the boat into the water in two and a half to three and a half months and still so much to do... Thanks for the tip in regards to planning. I already do it for some things, but you're right that I would have had an easier time for a number of items if I wrote down everything before I was at the boat. Frequently a week away and when I arrive
  19. How would I be able to tell that though? Asking since I have my rudder off right now and fighting to get the barrier coat off before fixing some minor osmosis bubbles. And would like to know if there is more to it while I am doing the work anyway...
  20. I don't know about models, less said about finders the better, but have one mounted since the previous owner and wonder if you're still thinking about placement? Can report that it works nicely below the V-berth and useful that you can run the wires through the bilge without having to drill any new holes. It's just solid laminate as far as I know. (Though it is an old unit that I may need to replace someday since it usually is accurate, but sometimes jumps from above 10m depth reading to 2m and that is just disquieting)
  21. Me taking notes... I do need to figure out how to seal my cockpit lockers that are notoriously wet and this looks like some good ideas.(once I get up the motivation to redo everything...) About bagging, for small,especially flatter, parts I've started using zippable "cloth bags" usually used to debulk and store winter bedding or the like. Neat in so far that I don't have to mess with tape and can simply shove the entire work plate, piece and associated material into the bag before applying vacuum. Anyway, really nice to see the kind of progress you're making and an easy insight in th
  22. Never have two tools when you could use one for two jobs? Declare the steps as anchor and save having an extra one You look to have made a lot of progress sanding, what kind of gear are you using? I just finished removing rubbery crap used to glue liner to the ceiling and even for a small spot it was a pain to do.(different from what you have, but sine I may redo the floor sometime as well...)
  23. Guess that's why they're knock offs? And yes, depending on how long you'd be running it(just fans once ignited I think, so the initial draw is to heat it enough) that could become a significant power hog. Though if run for select hours it does seem a lot more reasonable to me. Then again, cold also implies less than and power, right? Either way, sounds like it could be worth it to take a close look at your expected use hours(and not once in a blue moon scenarios) and crunch basic numbers. Ah, so you don't already have an inboard diesel tank you could have used? In that case it sou
  24. Well, can't really argue with that. I have polyurethane paint since 2012 and no issue, but also northern Europe with the boat only 7-9 months in the water. Damage repair is... Don't hit things Fixing some chafed through areas is painting over, wet sand and polish. So I have nothing more to compare to. No argument about the punishment gelcoat can take though. Tends to be thicker to begin with. On the flip side, I haven't polished gelcoat in years.
  25. Nearly thought it astonishingly cheap, then realized that its just material cost plus work which yes, looks a lot more daunting. To great result though! And hull gelcoat is a lot of work too...
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